Re-Directed Aggression In Dogs

Re-Directed Aggression

In Dogs

dog bite

An example of what can happen when a owner makes a mistake and their dog has redirected handler aggression

A question on re-dircted aggression with Dobes:

Hi Ed,

We e-mailed each other a few times regarding my two Dobermans. When someone walks by the house the younger one will start to get excited and nip and go after the other dog then they both get loud. You told me this was Redirected Aggression. I just received your DVD on Basic Obedience Training and Dealing with Dominant Dogs.(Great information)) I was reading in your Theory of
Corrections about Remote Trainer Corrections for Pack Problems. I know that this is not your favorite type of correction, but her bad behavior takes place from a distance (front and back yard) it would also be considered a high level of distraction.

The section said stimulate at High Level (with no voice correction or prasie) I am not sure of the sequence that the sem should begin. Would it be when I see she is excited because she sees somone that is going to be walking by the house, wait until I see her nipping the other dog, or when I see her starting to run after him. I need to try to get this one Pack Behavior under control because of my neighbors. Thats why I though the E-collar would be the best for distance Pack problems. I could be totally wrong.

I think with your Basic Obedience DVD and me becoming a better pack leader some off her Dominance will improve. She has never shown aggression toward me only other dogs, toys, bones.

Thanks so much for all your advise. I am not as fustrated as before.

Thanks Tammy

Ed's answer on redirected aggression Dobermans:

Tammy,

When dealing with this kind of a situation, where the one dog is showing redirected aggression towards the other dog because of an outside stimuli it would be a huge mistake to use high level stimulation from a remote collar. It will almost certainly result in a dog fight (the dog will think the other dog caused the pain)

I would probably consider a muzzle on this dog, then set up scenarios where your provide the outside stimuli and then use low level stimulation - to just make it uncomfortable enough for the dog to realize "Hey this is not a good idea"

When a dog has gone through the ground work to desensitize it to the collar and then normal low level stimulation most will react well to this approach.

Those that don’t are the dogs that exhibit serious dog fights in this kind of a situation. Those dogs should not be put into this environment.

Regards

Hi,

I am hoping that you can help me with a problem. I have two dogs who are both altered. Luna, a rot mix is 4, and Merrick, a dalmation mix is 2. I have had Merrick for over a year and Luna has lived with me for 3 years. Luna has always been alpha dog. Merrick will paw Luna when she wants to play and is sometimes very puppy-like in playing, but Merrick always ends up in submission when play is over. My mom owns two little dogs and everyone gets along when my mom comes to visit once a month or so. I have never had problems with the dogs who play, sleep, and eat together without aggressiveness until Christmas. Christmas evening, when everyone was let out into the yard, a fight started between Luna and Merrick but we were able to separate them without too much effort. The dogs were in separate rooms for the night. The next morning, Luna was muzzled and would growl at Merrick, who was attempting to get Luna to smell her and was totally submissive. Over the next two days, Luna seemed to improve and her muzzle was removed with increasing frequency when I could monitor play. Merrick was playing with my mom's two little dogs and when Luna (unmuzzled) got involved, a fight started between Luna and Merrick while the little dogs ran away. Luna initiated the fight. The fight was nasty. I saw no end to the fight as Merrick was defending herself and not backing down and my mom and I intervened to prevent the serious injury or death of a dog. We were both bitten trying to separate the dogs. The bites were not human-aggressive bites. My vet has said that Luna is territory aggressive and that she will never again get along with Merrick. The dogs stay separated at all times in my house and I alternate free dog every two to three hours when I am home. Merrick's bed is in my room and Luna sleeps in the guest room. Luna goes to bed willingly and happily when told to do so, but I feel so guilty as she winds up sleeping right by the door and not on her bed. I sleep with Merrick because I would have to crate her if I put her in another room all night, and I know that Luna can be trusted not to misbehave. I feel that I am mistreating both dogs because they are accustomed to being with me at all times when I am home and sleeping near me. I feel at the end of my rope and hope there is something I can do to have both dogs live in peace together. Any suggestions?

Hi I'm glad I found your site. I have 3 collies and 2 huskies. Gotta keep'em apart cause otherwise they'll bite themselves to death. 3 of them got into a fight, but since home alone, I had no option but to let 'em tire out. As I went out to get help, the 4th one came rushing downstairs and attacked and bit me out of the blue and then the fight. Any clues as to why he reacted this way? It's not the first he's bitten unexpectedly. Thanks for your help.

I have a 7 mos old Belgian Malinois in training. He just got neutered. Owned by a police officer, purchased from his breeder friend who is a K-9 Officer. This dog comes from some strong working lines but I don't know what the temperament is in those lines. This dog was purchased as a pet.
Here's the dilemma: I've had the dog come in for 3 training sessions so far and I'm using treats to teach him (thank god he's got a high food drive or I'd be screwed). Each time he's been here, he's been a handful. He gets highly aggravated if there's another dog in the training area or people walking by within about 8 feet of him.

I had the owner starting some left tums, which really pissed the dog off and he began snapping at his knee. The owner got upset and gave the dog a decent jerk (though not firm enough to leave a lasting impression) and the dog got even more pissed off, barking, whining and snapping more. He did not attack the owner but was clearly upset with him. Once the dog gets this worked up it takes him over 20 minutes to calm back down, no focus whatsoever and no response to anything.
I had the owners start "kennel treatment" as I call it, basically putting the dog in a crate and only bringing it out on a leash for potty and training sessions. The other family members are not to interact with the dog at all. They are already clear on other rules, such as no furniture or bedroom, not letting him be pushy, the whole nine yards. It's been 7 days and there has been a slight improvement. Dog was not barking as much yesterday and seemed to have a better bond with his handler.

However, when beginning exercises yesterday, 3 of us were in the training area and standing or sitting still. Dog began lunging at us for no apparent reason. We were able to get him to focus though within about 5 minutes and he didn't lose it. What I've seen so far lets me believe that the dog definitely a high prey drive along with very dominant tendencies. I also think he has weak nerves. He started snapping at the owner again yesterday and I told him that it was time to set the dog straight. I had the owner hang the dog briefly and then drop him like a hot potato which did make a big difference. I do not usually recommend alpha rolling the dog as I find this ineffective and downright dangerous for inexperienced handlers. The owners are willing to do whatever it takes and will do whatever I say (they respect me a great deal).

The dog is not dog aggressive and will play with dogs off leash as the owners told me. The dog doesn't always lunge or consistently lunges at people and we are able to go up to handler & dog and give the dog treats. That's why I do think there's hope. In most cases it's easy for me to make a decision, but in this case I see a "hard" dog with a willing handler and that's why I don't want to tell them put the dog down. Would it help if I set the dog straight? I didn't want to do that yesterday only because it would have added to the negativity of everything and I did think the owner has to set the dog straight. It's very tough when you can't show them and have to explain how to do it (which kills all proper timing).

How long do you think this will take? How long do you think they should keep up with crating the dog? (My opinion at this point is the longer the better, and make the dog earn his privilege to be out). What exactly should the owner do when the dog "snaps" at him but doesn't really bite him when walking and the dog is worked up? I'm disappointed in myself for finding myself stuck and being unsure. I'd like to have the dog for a few days and put a foot up you know where. I'd be willing to refer them to someone else, if only there was someone else familiar with the breed and this type of problem in this area (none whatsoever). As always, I appreciate your input.

My name is Tony Napoli and my company is Dog Days Concepts, I specialize in e- collar training. My question is on your dominant dog collars. I have never used them before and a friend is having a problem with their four year old, intact, male pit. He was attacked by a ratty a few years ago that was not on a leash and seriously injured. After finally pulled from the attacking dog he bit the owner on the ass, this happened after the dog had settled down from the attack. Unfortunately the same incident happened again last night. The ratty was off his leash AGAIN, the rotty was severely injured and is hospitalized (thanks to his moronic 98 pound owner who has no control over her dog.

After the fight on the way back to the house the pit bit his owner on the ass again, tearing flesh. Again this was after the fight and the dog was calm and showing no signs of aggression. He was not correcting, hitting or yelling at the dog. The only time he was physical with the dog (yanking the dog away from the attacking ratty, and slapping both dogs with the leash to try and break up the fight. During this time the pit never got defensive with the owner.

I know this dog very well, I have two malinios, a Doberman, a jack russel and a three pound chi chi, they all get along, with the exception of the dobe who never comes in contact with him. (just in case) I have never seen any form of aggression from this dog, but biting the owner on the ass after he has calmed has me scratching my head.

My question is: To break this behavior should we try to evoke his handler aggression to try to extinguish it? I would imagine that putting some heavy compulsion on his obedience while exposing him to other dogs might be the way to go. However it seems a little self defeating to bring out a behavior that has only happened twice with the intent of extinguishing it. Any advice you could give me would be greatly appreciated. ps I have quite a few of your tapes and your equipment is great, love the website, love the articles. Thanks in advance.

Hi.

I Have two Dobermans. Diesel is three and Teah is 14 mths. For the most part they get along fine.
The one big problem I am having is outside when they see someone walking by the house. Teah gets very excited and starts to nip Disel on the back of the legs and he starts to get loud as if to say back off. Sometimes he will start the barking at her first. She will not back off so it gets very loud and they are on there back legs at each other. They get so focused they will not listen to me. This is very embarrassing because I live in a neighborhood. It seems like a Dominant issue. Its very fustrating I can not stand outside with them all day waiting for someone to come by so I can some how distract them so they dont get loud or hurt each other. I was going to have a trainer come out to the house for some help dealing with this issue.

I was also thinking about buying two of your muzzles. One for each when they are outside. What do you think about the muzzles? I would need two because if Teah only wears one they play pretty rough and she would have no way to get Diesel off her becasue he is much bigger. So it would be best for both to wear one. Any advise will be helpful.

Thanks
Tammy

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