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  September 26, 2013
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The Durability and Life of Your Dog Toys

The Durability and Life of Your Dog Toys

Jeff Frawley discusses the durability of toys as well as an easy way to extend the life of your toys. No toy is indestructible, yet some are close. In this short video, Jeff will show you a few toys that are virtually indestructible as well as one that has been destroyed by his own dog.

September 26, 2013   |   4 Minutes, 24 Seconds

Leerburg Q&A
Ask your training question

Question: My 10 month old GSD is biting my ankles and jumping up and grabbing the leash on walks. How do I correct this?

Question if you would be so kind, I have a ten month pure bred West German show line German Shepherd from German lines. She is starting to rebel and a little difficult to control. On her walks she likes to bite her leash, jump and go after my ankles. I recently have started to tell her no bite, give a little more lead, and ignore her and she stops. But now on the walks she does this two or three times. Not sure if this is just a rebellious stage, play, or if she is challenging my leadership. I have tried to use some of the principles on your site and have recently purchased the Basic Dog Obedience DVD from your site. I have taught her to sit, down, and leave it commands. But the problem is with her jumping and biting the leash on her walks. She comes from a great kennel in Miami and strong genes. With her genes does she need stricter discipline and how would you recommend her corrections. Thanks for the assistance!

Cindy's Response:

It sounds like she’s trying to make things happen.  Jumping, biting and grabbing the leash can either be corrected away OR you could channel that energy into appropriate play with rules. 

My choice would be to channel her energy and enthusiasm into games you can play together, but with rules for when it’s acceptable to play and clear verbal cues for when to begin & end the games.  It’s easier to start this type of training when puppies are very small, just because they are a more manageable size.

If you haven’t used marker training before I would suggest you read our article on training dogs with markers.

I’d recommend the videos: 

You could always resort to corrections later, but in order to preserve the relationship I always feel that it’s best to work WITH their natural drives and tendencies.

I hope this helps.

Cindy Rhodes

For more questions on this topic, see our Q&A on Puppy Training.

We get a number of Q&As every week, if you would like to read this week's Q&As, click here and check out the 'Recent Questions' section!

Have a question for Ed & Cindy? Try the Leerburg Q&A Search. If you can't find the answer to your question by using our search engine, you can email Cindy here at Leerburg at If you have your spam filter on, make sure you set it to receive our replies!!!

Customer Comments

On Leerburg's Ecollar Training

Hi Cindy and Ed. I have approximately 6 or 7 of your DVDs and two of them are on remote collar training. I couldn't be happier with the knowledge and information you have given me via your DVDs. I have 3 rescue dogs that had some serious "barrier frustration" issues with fences. First and foremost: my dogs are exercised daily, have good obedience and live with in routine. However, they would get so worked up w/ various dogs on the opposite side of the fence that they would often demonstrate redirected aggression and turn on each other. I tried positive reinforcement for recall. I tried positive punishment with banging metal bowls together w/ the verbal command of "No!" followed by recall. Both methods worked approximately 80% of the time when I was present. However... they would simply go back to "fence fighting" 10 minutes later.

I decided to try the remote collar. I am a firm believer that a correction, redirection attempt, or reward must be GREATER than the current state the dog is in to make it worth it for the dog to change its behavior. I was also very aware that stimulation by a remote collar (or any correction) could go either way: the dog could learn that what it is doing is wrong or the dog could associate the stimulation with whatever they are distracted by with the shock and hate the object or being even more. My results:

100% positive! It took about 2 or 3 uses of stimulation for my dogs to get the point. True, at first, one dog was simply cautious of the fence. She wouldn't get closer than 7ft of the fence. However, I lured the dogs closer to the fence with treats and rewarded them when they demonstrated good behavior around the fence. Very quickly, my dogs realized it was their fence fighting that was punished, not their proximity to the fence. Their behavior is excellent along the fence now! And the biggest difference is the lasting impact of using stimulation. I don't have to "remind them" every 10 minutes like I did w/ other methods.

I have a new neighbor that moved in with 3 dogs. One is HIGHLY aggressive at the fence (chain link fence). I can actually walk my dogs over to the fence, put them in a down/stay one foot from the fence (w/ the dog on the other side going nuts) and they will not even look at the other dog. If their head starts to turn, I can simply snap my fingers and they redirect their attention towards me. I rarely have to use stimulation anymore. The other day, I was in the kitchen (with a view of the backyard) and I saw my one male start to stalk the neighbor's dog with raised hackles. I gave him one low level stimulation hit from inside the house and his drive was stopped immediately! His hackles went down, ears relaxed, body relaxed, and tail started wagging. He went back to the back porch and went into a down position. I didn't have to say a word. Awesome!

Please keep in mind that I am also a HUGE believer in food reward and positive reinforcement. I use random reinforcement on a regular basis (if that makes sense-ha) and my dogs receive treats at random when they respond to simple verbal commands.

The only negative: the neighbor's dog stops barking when my dogs walk away which reinforces their dog's aggressive behavior (it gets other dogs to go away when it acts aggressively). I'd like to help them and they've commented on how well behaved my dogs are; however, I've learned in the past to not get involved with neighbor affairs.

Thanks Ed and Cindy!


The Michael Ellis School for Dog Trainers

Check out the 2013 Schedule!

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