I have a 5 month old GSD that I have been working a lot on. At first when I had him I made a LOT of mistakes, with too much corrections. Now I've been getting a lot better and am much more patient WITH him, mainly due to the Leerburg videos that I purchased. I went ahead and bought "Your Puppy 8 Weeks To 8 Months Old", "Basic Dog Obedience", and also "How To Raise A Working Puppy". These videos have had a LOT of usefull information on them, and am very glad that I've bought them. I still haven't watched "How To Raise A Working Puppy" all the way, but will do by the end of today. I'm going to review these videos over and over again to get the most out of them.

My goal for my dog is to go beyond basic obedience and hopefully if things turn out well take him into personal protection training because he definitely has the drives for it. I'm doing my best to set myself as pack leader by eating before him, making him sit before we go out door and get into cars, and I try to be fair with him as much as possible (I still can get frustrated sometimes, especially when he bites, but I try to remind myself that he's still a puppy). One of my first questions is, are there any other ways to set myself as pack leader than what I've just listed? Also, what other things can I do with him to prepare him for protection training?

I try to keep him from other dogs except the very few I trust. I did fail him in protection once when three of this guys unleashed dogs charged at my dog and started sniffing at him. Mine being dog shy, didn't like it and came to my protection, and I didn't do anything not because I didn't know but because I didn't want to offend the other guy, I said nothing and my dog more than likely lost some confidence in me. So again what I'm looking for is ways to gain that confidence back and establish my rank and make it clear to him who is the leader.

One thing I've noticed with him is that SOMETIMES and I mean very rarely when I make a correction he actually slightly raises his hair and rus around for a little bit. I'm not sure what this means, but if anyone knows what this means, please let me know. And lastly, for a dog who I'm hoping to be trained in personal protection, should he be corrected for biting or chewing on rugs, carpets, or couches? I correct him everytime because I don't it all be torn into pieces. Also, he when he bites or nips at me playfully, I never correct him physically I tell him no and stop petting him and when he stops I pet him again. This seems to work, but for a working puppy would this be a good idea?

I know this has been A LONG post and I didn't mean to write a novel, but any help that is given is greatly greatly appreciated. Thanks again!

- Ali

 Quote: alex madsen

My goal for my dog is to go beyond basic obedience and hopefully if things turn out well take him into personal protection training because he definitely has the drives for it.

Hi Ali! It's nice to see you around again

Judging from your pup's pictures (the ones you posted a while back), I assume that he's an American show line shepherd?
If so, the odds of him having the proper drives and nerves for protection training are pretty much non existent.

If he has good prey drive, you could probably turn him into a successful obedience or agility competition dog, with the right training. Protection is not something that you can do with a showline dog, unfortunately. They just lack the genetics for it.
Be careful if you ever come across trainers who are willing to take you and your dog on for such training without a good temperament evaluation. Chances are, they're completely ignorant and/or crooks.

If you really have your heart set on protection training, you need to find a good dog from European working bloodlines and a competent trainer/helper to work with you.

 Quote:

One of my first questions is, are there any other ways to set myself as pack leader than what I've just listed? Also, what other things can I do with him to prepare him for protection training?

Being respected by your dog as a pack leader comes from your overall attitude and the way you live with the dog. You should always be in control of the dog (no letting him run free off leash until you have 100% obedience under distractions... this doesn't happen with a puppy).
Get a long line (the 20ft Leerburg cotton lines are excellent) and let him drag that when you want to give him more freedom to run.
That way when you call him to you and he refuses to come, you can pick up the lead and enforce your command.

No unfair corrections and no losing your temper. Ever. No matter what he does.
A pack leader should give off an air of superiority and aloofness. When he gives a correction for inappropriate behaviour, he does so swiftly, but without losing his cool.

You can provide plenty of affection and play of course, but this should always be on your terms. Don't let the dog shove you when he wants petting or let him initiate games. He plays when you decide it's time to play, not any sooner
When the game is over, it's over and you take all your toys back.

The more you avoid letting other dogs and people play with your pup, the more he'll look to YOU for affection, play and leadership.

It's also important that you protect him from other dogs, regardless of whether or not you're worried about offending people. Who cares if you offend someone?
You don't even have to talk to them, just say NO to loose dogs that come near your pup, chase them off if you have to and walk on. If the owner complains, just tell them that your pup was scared and that you were protecting him.
If you're the type of person who's too shy to stand up for yourself and for your dog, then your pup will certainly be able to tell this.
Dogs (all dogs) instinctively sense a strong and confident leader.
Making the dog wait for meals, sit at the door, move out of your way etc. etc. is all useful of course, but if you act unsure when your pup is threatened and you stand there without doing anything, you've lost something in his eyes... It's just not leader behaviour.

Read Ed Frawley's ground work article on the Leerburg website for everything you need to know.


If your pup has good prey drive, you can get the "First Steps of Bite Training" DVD and teach him the work in prey.
Any dog with prey drive can do this, it's all a game and there's no stress involved in the work. You can start this right now if you want.

You'll most likely never be able to take this dog beyond prey work though. You can read Ed's articles on the different drives and the difference between working in prey and working in defense (or in fight drive). This will show you why your dog can't do advanced defensive work without the genetics for it.

Good luck

As for how to deal with biting inappropriately (be it you, your furniture, your clothes etc.), try redirecting him to an appropriate prey item, like a puppy tug.

Your pup's prey drive will direct him to go after moving objects. If you make the tug (or whatever toy you're using) move around, you will make it more exciting for your puppy to bite it than to bite you.
Encouraging and developing his prey drive will be very useful if you plan on doing advanced obedience with him. It makes all the difference between a fun dog to train and a frustrating pupil who just doesn't care enough to work for you

Keep him kenneled or crated when you can't watch him or don't have time to supervize him. He can't get into trouble chewing your carpet if he's secured in a crate, and you've eliminated the problem

If he really persists in biting YOU, calmly pick his front end off the ground and force him to hold still while you look into his eyes. Very calmly tell him NO, KNOCK IT OFF until he stops struggling.
Then gently put him back on the ground and praise him.

The most important thing is to always stay in control and to keep your cool. That's how a pack leader acts... ;-)


Edit: ok at 5 months your pup may be too big for you to physically immobilize. If he gets too wild in biting you and the redirecting to toys doesn't work, fit a prong and give him a quick pop on it when he ignores your verbal warning to stop.
Don't overdo this; if he's a soft dog who doesn't recover easily from corrections, you could overwhelm him and scare him.
Give just enough of a correction to get your point across, not so much that you hurt his feelings.
After you give the correction, he should still be willing to play with you and to bite a tug. If he isn't, you were too hard on him and you hurt his feelings - correct more softly the next time

Oh sorry, I forgot to mention, he is a Czech bloodline, and his entire family has been placed in protection training. So I'm hoping that he is able to do it as well.

Fantastic!


In that case, work hard at the First Steps of Bite Training DVD and establish a good solid foundation in prey work.

I also recommend the "First Steps of Defense" DVD so that you can familiarize yourself with the defensive drive. This is a much more difficult area to work a dog in, so you will need to get a competent trainer to assist you.

By watching these DVDs and reading everything that Ed has written on his website on the topics, you'll be informed enough to select a GOOD trainer when the time comes for more advanced training.
Protection training is one area that's full of crooks and losers preying on your wallet and passing themselves off as expert trainers, so it's a good idea to be knowledgeable when you start your search for a trainer
As Ed warns, even good dogs can be very quickly ruined when defensive training is not properly introduced. You only have one chance to get it right the first time around, so make sure you proceed cautiously.

Until your pup is over a year old, you'll probably be working exclusively in prey anyway. That's much more forgiving work and it'll give you plenty of time to learn and think about the more advanced protection work


Happy training!!

And sorry about the misunderstanding, I guess it was stupid of me to try and guess his lineage from puppy pictures

Do you have any updated pictures of Caesar?

As far as protecting him in front of other dogs, you're absolutely right. I really should protect him, and I had no excuse, I've been defending him more often now. The main worry I have is that he doesn't hold it as a "grudge" forever that I didn't protect him that one time.

As far as the biting, if I try the bitter apple on the couch and carpet, would that be a good idea? That way I don't have to correct him, and he just stops by himself. I'm going to try the tug toys as well with him, to keep his attention somewhere else. As far as him biting me, I don't really mind honestly, and if it gets too annoying, I could restrain him physically as long as that doesn't really affect the way he looks at me.

I'm going to really try to focus on him more as far just being more patient with him. I NEVER get abusive with him, but when I get frustrated, I raise my voice a little which shouldn't be neccessary if I had the long line. The long line really would help me out, I normally let him run free in the house, but a long line would most definitely solve my problems!

I will definitely check out that video, I'm trying to be cost careful at the moment, but I definitely will. Besides that, I have a small health problem that I will post in a different forum, but you've been great help all this time!


Oh here are some pictures:

Dogs don't hold grudges
They live in the present and don't worry about the past, so you shouldn't worry about it either.


The bitter apple is a good idea. Just make sure you condition your pup to it like Ed describes in the puppy 8 weeks to 8 months DVD.
People often spray the bitter apple on stuff they don't want chewed up and think that's how it works, but it isn't.

The trick is to teach the puppy to HATE the smell of it by soaking a piece of fabric or cotton ball in the solution and then holding the soaked cotton ball in the puppy's mouth for a minute every day (they will put up a fight!).

After a few days, it will only take the slightest odor of bitter apple on an object for your pup to steer WAY clear of it

The long line is a lifesaver.

You have no idea how much appreciation you will develop for it until you've used one yourself!

It's a good thing you mentioned that I have to do the whole step with the bitter apple because I was going to skip it and just spray it on. But since it's a neccessary step, than I will for sure use it. Do you have any idea where to buy the product? Thanks again.

- Ali

Bitter apple:

http://www.leerburg.com/774.htm