Yes, neutral is the correct term.

 Quote: Alyssa Sawyer

Iam familiar with PPDs but when it comes to my own dog in training I'm nervous! I guess because as of now he is pretty stable and social, but our town and neighborhood is a very bad place. We have had a lot of problems with crime and robbery. In the end I just want him to be friendly in public and to people who are not s threat, but protect us and our property if needed. I have a 8 year old shepherd, he is PP trained but he recently hurt his back and he dosent get around to well anymore. So we want our young dog to be trained.

Alyssa,
Please don't take anything here that I'll say personally, I'm just offering advice based on my many years of training serious PPDs.

Out of a few hundred dogs that I've trained for PPD work ( and that's *a lot* ) I can think of two in all those dogs that where nice and social but could actually protect their owners.
Two.
Out of *hundreds*.
And one of those was owned by a forum member here, he might comment on him if he'd like

It's one or the other - you can have a nice, social dog that can be around your friends, etc.........but if faced by a serious attack, the best that you can expect is a bark and the dog will go into advoidance. It's a show, and if you're really in danger, that is a hell of a compromise to make.

Or you can have a serious dog, which will have an edge, and you'll have to carefully manage him. He won't be out with your friends, because he may make mistake a playful gesture for the start of an attack and BLAM, someone is bitten.
But when the chips are down, that dog *will* protect you, and that is rare.

It's one or the other. Your trainer could be doing straight SchH training and your dog would have the same chance of repelling a serious attack.
Please, don't fool yourself like the majority of PPD owners do ( and I'm talking 90% here.....yes, 90% of PPD owners are just flat fooling themselves regarding their dogs ability to actually protect them. ).


Please spend some time reviewing my PPD posts and taking those lessons to heart.
It'll save you a lot of money and heartache down the line.

Okay. Thanks for the advice! I spoke with the trainer about the training. And he said I just always have be causious with him. Just like if he were a weapon. He said he will train me how to control the dog. Which made me feel better!! I just want to have enough control of him.

 Quote: Will Rambeau

And one of those was owned by a forum member here, he might comment on him if he'd like

It's one or the other - you can have a nice, social dog that can be around your friends, etc.........but if faced by a serious attack, the best that you can expect is a bark and the dog will go into advoidance. It's a show, and if you're really in danger, that is a hell of a compromise to make.

Or you can have a serious dog, which will have an edge, and you'll have to carefully manage him. He won't be out with your friends, because he may make mistake a playful gesture for the start of an attack and BLAM, someone is bitten.
But when the chips are down, that dog *will* protect you, and that is rare.

It's one or the other. Your trainer could be doing straight SchH training and your dog would have the same chance of repelling a serious attack.
Please, don't fool yourself like the majority of PPD owners do ( and I'm talking 90% here.....yes, 90% of PPD owners are just flat fooling themselves regarding their dogs ability to actually protect them. ).


Please spend some time reviewing my PPD posts and taking those lessons to heart.

A lot of valuable info above and in the related posts.

I spoke with my dogs trainer and he did a demo with another client and her dog. I completely understand now. Befpre I was confused about the sability of the dog after the training. But Im glade i asked! you all have given me excellent advice!!! Thank you.

Hi,
I would like to get some help / advice for protection training. What are the useful activities that can be done to help a working line dog (from security and protection breeding program) with civil work and passive decoy. Basically, no equipment (or just hidden sleeve) and no agitation. I have limited access to a good decoy so I'm doing some of stuff that I think they can be helpful e. g. I only take my dog for a walk at night in quiet streets. No one except my wife and kids can touch the dog, when we have guests to our house the dog will be out of sight.

Hi,
I would like to get some help / advice for protection training. What are the useful activities that can be done to help a working line dog (from security and protection breeding program) with civil work and passive decoy. Basically, no equipment (or just hidden sleeve) and no agitation. I have limited access to a good decoy so I'm doing some of stuff that I think they can be helpful e. g. I only take my dog for a walk at night in quiet streets. No one except my wife and kids can touch the dog, when we have guests to our house the dog will be out of sight.