Reg: 04-29-2006
Posts: 138
Loc: Southern California
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Hi
Hope this wasn't already posted somewhere but I couldn't find any reference.
Here's my dilemma. I've got a 10 month old dobernut -er I mean dobermann and she's doing great on her obedience so far at home or strang areas like parks or schools. I'm using the training during drive with balls and tugs. However, if I go to the club where we also do protection work, she anticipates the bite work and blows me off for obedience. She just checks out and looks for the guy with the puppy tug. That's cool but still need control :-)
One strategy we've tried doing is no bite work for awhile and only do obedience until she gets a bit desensitized.
Anyone else deal with this one? I've tried being more interesting than the grass or birds or whatever she is looking at but I'm pooped. I've stepped back to using food just to get her attention but that barely works. Any suggestions?
hello,
here is my opinion:
sounds like you are still work only motivaition on your obidience training with no corection which may be fine regarding your dog age and breed.
when you are near the protaction field the prey drive of your dog is high more than other drives like trainabilty or food it is very hard to fight with balls or tugs ahandler with asleeve and irealy think you shouldnt try it anymore trying to switch to another drive like food mait have been nice idea but its sounds it dosent has the effect you wanted.
regarding to all of the above my suggestions is to you:
DONT DO OBIDIENCE TRAINING WITH YOUR DOG UNTILL SHE IS REDY TO GET CORECTIONS AND KNOW HOW TO RESPOND TO THAM and ovcourse you know how much corection she need and can take...
idont think you should stop protection training.
idont think you should start with intense corection right know...
ithink you should first work on your obidience and shape to the best and than when your dog is more mature start combine corection when it is needed with aproffetional that know dobs trainer. and yet not on the protection area and dont stop motivate than gradully use protection like light stimullats and keep your dog on focus with corections and food - you are now switching from prey to avoidnece and social, than when it is ready move to the problematic area and start do obidience from the farrest end of the field when your dog is good for long get abit closer ect..
meanwhile isujest you not to do obidince near the problematic area at all - you are just weakning your obidince and get bad conditioning and imprint on the situation. (use cage or somthing to your conviant) but iwhould still work on the dog bite and drive etc...
beaware not to corect your dog when she is needed to bite like when you get attacked or when the handler confront her directly.
well this is my opinoin without seeing your dog and with my lousy english... hope imannaged to help you.
regarding to all of the above my suggestions is to you:
DONT DO OBIDIENCE TRAINING WITH YOUR DOG UNTILL SHE IS REDY TO GET CORECTIONS AND KNOW HOW TO RESPOND TO THAM and ovcourse you k
sory
imeant: dont do obidience training with your dog WITH APROTECTION TRAINING GOING ON NEARBYuntill she is ready to get corections and know how to respond to tham.
Hi Lynn. I'm only a beginner at SchH, and know nothing about Dobie's. But if there is any similarity between a German showline female GSD, and a female Dobie, here are a couple of thoughts.
It took our girl awhile to mature, especially in terms of attention span. I swear Kimba helped Cindy Lauper produce the song "Girls Just Wanta Have Fun."
While I like having a professional trainer to help with everything, there is one SchH position you can't do without - that's your helper. So I think if I were having trouble doing both OB and Protection on the same field/same day, I would focus on developing the protection work with a 10 month old. Then I would do my best to garner resources (i.e. DVD's here + discussions here, etc.) to just do what I could with OB and tracking until the protection stuff is very secure.
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