Hello All,

I'm interested in any and all feedback anyone can provide.

I imported Axel from The Netherlands when he was 7weeks old. He is from a working KNPV background. (His father failed the PH1 twice for biting the judge, and is considered kinda out of control.) I intended to work him in Schutzhund.
From the start, he was a shy puppy. Not with the family, but w/strangers. He would back away on any approach. Not cower, just back away, like he just didn't want to be bothered. I brought him everywhere I went: to the store, bank, Schutzhund club... We stood in front of the supermarket and I had strangers feed him treats. He would accept treats, but wouldn't allow people to pet him. I never forced a stranger on him. He works well at the SchH club, just doing his job. Not overly friendly to club members or their dogs. A little boy was feeding him treats in front of the supermarket. When the boy turned to leave, Axel nipped at his shirt.I'm not sure if this was his prey drive, (the boy was small and moving eraticly)or if out of fear. He became territorial at about 4mos old.He would bark at anything that came near my home, or in front of my home. I had a trainer come over to work my other dog and brought Axel out to meet him. As soon as he got out of his car, Axel broke the leash and ran towards him, doing a bark and hold. Staring the trainer straight in the eye. He wouldn't back off till I restrained him.
With this same trainer, away from my home, Axel is a different dog. He won't let the trainer pet him, but he leaves him alone. In fact, when in the schoolyard, Axel plays w/ other dogs and just ignores their owners. He's 9mos old now and weighs 90lbs. I've been working w/ him on an e-collar for the past two months. His recall is excellent,
even under mild distraction. eg: playing w/ another dog in the schoolyard.
But when he is in high-intensity mode, even the strong stims won't deter him. I take him into crowds and he ignores everyone, but if someone approaches my property he goes ballistic. He is very dominant over my other dog. A 4yr old female GSD. If she come near me he has to get in the middle or bite her ears. He's the same w/ anyone coming near my wife. He has to be between them. My grandson was over and came to me for a hug. Axel went for his face. Not in a threating way,just enough to tell him to back off. This scared the shit outa me and I grabbed him by the neck and really let him have it.
The other day, my daughters friend came over for dinner. Axel was crated until he calmed down. I let him out of his crate and he went to investigate this girl. After sniffing her, be started to bark. I brought him into the gated den. When ever she passed the entrance, he lunged at her. I could go on and on but I'm sure you get the idea.

I've been doing some reading on aggression and it seems the popular "todays" method is positive reinforcement. I've kinda been doing that in our daily walks. When he see's something/someone and doesn't bother w/ them, I give him a treat. His reaction time when someone comes close to my home is so fast that I never have time to "catch him"
before he reacts. The before mentioned trainer say's I should "stim him hard" if he barks at someone. My thought is that this would only
escalate his aggression if he pairs it w/ an oncoming threat. All of his training has been in a positive motivational way w/ the proofing
done w/ the e-collar on low-stim. He's the most affectionate dog I have ever owned. At home, all he wants to do is play and be loved
up. Outside, Watch It!

...Stephen Creamer

Just some general comments.

1- When the dog shows signs of aggression at inappropriate time you should be correcting the dog – verbally and with a prong collar if need be. It’s your job to make sure he understands that you do not like this and will not tolerate it.

2- This "positive training" will never work on this dog

3- If you want a sport dog you are making a mistake to allow this dog to be running around with other dogs that you don’t know. It's a disaster waiting to happen. Read the article I wrote on dog parks. This is no different.

4- I never allow strangers to pet my dogs. Why would you do this or why would you expect this? I want my dogs to be neutral to people, non-aggressive to non-threatening strangers. But that does not mean I allow people to touch my dog.

5- If we are talking about a Schutzhund dog - I don’t want the dog to look at strangers like they are cookie machines. If you want a pet that's fine and there is nothing wrong with it - but not a Schutzhund dog.

6- Your dog has thin nerves, accept it and be aware of his behavior. Control his environment and you will be fine. Treat this dog like a pet and you had better check your insurance.

Ed Frawley Wrote:

"I want my dogs to be neutral to people, non-aggressive to non-threatening strangers."

Do you think this is possible via correction, either a prong collar or e-collar?

Like I said, he's totally neutral on the street and at the SchH club, but when someone approaches my property, he goes ballistic.

Keep in in a kennel and a dog crate if he is a house dog. You are probably not going to change this. If you need to - train him to be quiet. Its a command thats no different than a DOWN or SIT command. Its often easier to teach him a command to bark and then teach him to be quiet

This command may come in handly in sport training. A dog that barks during obedience is going to cost you points. Some people think its cute - or a sign of drive when in fact its a sign of a dog that needs more training.

How about just reaching down and grabbing him by the ear and give him a good rogering when he acts a fool. It may get you bit but when it comes down to it is very simple you tell him dowm stay and if he doesnt do it you two have a man to man talk . LET HIM KNOW THAT YOU WILL LAY HANDS ON HIM . All that jerking around on a tough dog wired like he is will most times just put him in fight drive. Grab him and put him down ,yes it is risky but i would rather be bit than a kid. When you say down you mean down his chin flat on the ground. Use the palm of your hand and bop him between the shoulder blades when he breaks the stay when he is at heel on your left side. A man like MR. FLINKS would put this dog in his place in no time flat. I know that alpha word is thrown around a bunch but this dog needs to feel like you will kill him if he challenges you. P.S. habituate him to a muzzle for 21 days with fun and then enter him into your own personal bootcamp ,he will gain a bit of strenght from your newfound strenght as the boss. The technicque should only be used if you are working the dog after he has been habituated to the muzzle.When you lay hands on a dog they know for a fact it is personal between you and the dog, no clearer message can be sent to the dog , no ecollar no prong just you and your dutch treat. Make sure you have a good health plan before going on with this advice it is not for the feint of heart.

There are much better ways to train that what Peter has just described. I suggest those that read it disregard this advise.

Although the description is a bit rough and realistic, I have to agree with Peter. If that is the kind of dog you want to work with, then that is what will work. I have had to do the same thing with several puppies. Those methods, just like those dogs, aren't for everyone, but it doesn't mean that they aren't for anyone.
Mike Williams

Being a sport dog may not be in the cards for your dog.

I have a dog similar to what you have discribed....controlling the situation and controlling the dog is the number one priority. I never allow mine to be loose around strangers in my home, especilly children. She is crated in another room with the door closed or put in outside kennel. With adults I will sometimes allow her to remain out on a leash, however, she must lay quitely by my side. If she can't do this she is crated.

These types of dogs are a lot of responsibility...I never take chances....would rather be too cautious than too careless.

Best of luck, Debbie

In spite of all the socialization you've done with your dog, he definately has a temperment issue which will probably not get any better. This is not your fault, it's genetic. If your concerned about people when they come over to your house, then by all means put your dog in a crate until your guests leave. I would also let the dog know that you disapprove of his behaviour as Ed suggested, when he acts aggresive.

I had a dog act almost exactly as you described, do as Ed suggests and put a muzzle on it and keep it in a crate or kennel. I found that going back to basics and training with love and proper corrections when needed with well timed praise helped raise his confidence and he stopped lunging at people and became more confident around strangers. Buy the basics video ed sells and watch it closely and note the timing of corrections and praise and the timing of his movements especially in teaching the heel. Being abusive to this dog will not help it and make it more lost and probably more aggressive. Start putting a muzzle on it and sociallizing it slowly and cautiously if you feel you absolutely need to around family members. Also by putting it in a crate or kennel I found the dog feels more secure and has Less to worry about, like running round the yard and trying to guard all of it at once.