Central Iowa Schutzhund

Wanted: New working dog club in Central Iowa is now taking applications for membership. Dogs and owners must pass interview and evaluation. Areas of training will include obedience, tracking and protection. Protection training is optional and we only accept traditional working/herding dog applicants.

All accepted teams will receive free resources and instructions on how to pass your BH in 12 weeks or less upon acceptance into the club. PM me for application details. There will be no corners cut here so expect to work.

If you live in Iowa and you are thinking about getting a puppy and want to be involved in working dog sports contact me so we can point you in the right direction for a puppy that has what it takes to win given the right training.

This is a serious Dog Sport, traditionally used to test the breed worthiness of the dog. While Schutzhund trains protection dogs, the dogs we train are also mentally sound and socially stable animals. This club IS NOT for anyone looking to protection-train their dog. If protection training is your only goal, we recommend you find another club.

Thanks Ed for this space

I have a question ~ something I have never *really* understood.... why only the traditional breeds??

I am just curious!

Hey Dennis,

Chad from Ames posted last week about starting a DVG club in Central Iowa, maybe you guys could meet up. Also there is a forming USA trial in Des Moines April 26, you might stop and get with them. If you are up for some driving there is a club in the Quad cities about 160 miles east of central Iowa. I know its a drive, but like you said Schutzhund is some serious hard work.

Brad

I have a girl friend that has an Airdale involved with SchH. I know she's in a club now, but would she be allowed at you club?

Isn't there a lady with a Dutch Shepherd also in your area that dos SchH?

Thanks Brad but I am aware of both clubs and certainly I am interested in people wishing to promote the sport. The fact is we have been forming a club and this club that is having their first trial was one a part of this forming club. Unfortunately and perhaps luckily not all members seen eye to eye on the training direction of the club so they split.

I think the other clubs may have some good people.

We have come slowly in this sport in Iowa. We seem to be on track now with some good puppies and a small group that has because of necessity learned more by having made mistakes and working low drive dogs. Their commitment regardless of quick is a testimony to their character. They now have a chance and wish to build something better here and I applauded this. The chances of them wanting to join another group that has as, it seems to them, been contentious and in some cases spiteful, does not seem likely. Personally I don’t care either way I am about training dogs.

I have been mostly on the sidelines about schutzhund because it is just one part of my training knowledge and by no means my largest income maker involving dogs.

I will admit I have been less then eager to dive into dog sport politics mostly because pissing matches I think happen from those who lack self-faith in what they are doing and what they know.

I have stayed with these people because I appreciate loyalty and friendship so I decided to give them my honest and best until they either quit, improved or found dogs capable of winning. We now have very good (I mean really good) prospects in the club. Young pups with high focused drive and calm as pond water. I guess we are ready to make a dent here. Any willing to train will be welcomed to join us.

I have been informed that some of you might wish to know my credentials to train so here you go.

My Bio:

I am a police K-9 trainer, student of behavioral psychology and a certified professional graduate of one of the top training schools in the country.

Since graduating back in 1995, I have been a working professional in the field of dog training and animal behavior. Over the last few years I have dedicated much more time towards classical education (psychology) and research into behavior. I may be the only person who has worked as a conflict resolution counselor for troubled teens and juvenile delinquents in the morning and then go on to deal with the problems of a handler aggressive Police K-9 by the afternoon.

My main interest has been focused on behavior but I do spend a lot of time on methodology and research. I often review behavior studies from universities around the world trying to keep current on the edge of this science and art we call training.

As a rule I try to maintain some objectivity about methods and techniques that differ from my methods of training, understanding there is more then one way to train. That being said, there are few guesses about a solid training program. Sometimes, I will offer my two cents worth or collaborate with others in discussions on ideas both old and new.

See the links below to learn more about my training ideology and the section citing of some of the scientific references, books, research and seminars I use to supplement my education and experience for the sake of better understanding dog behavior and training.

My focus has been on the fundamental causes of problem behaviors. I try to combine what I know, discovered and learned to find better answers to some of the most common problems in training today.

During the last 7 years as a practicing behavior researcher and trainer, I have trained with, and improved many of, Iowa’s Police K9 programs and continue to evolve techniques that
enhance not only service dogs but affect all of dog training in general.

So far I have developed 3 theoretical behavior models being tested and debated in the field amongst some of my peers in the areas of canine/handler aggression, puppy imprinting, and rehabilitation of abused animals. These models will be available within this website soon.

I am, at present, addressing better methods of counter conditioning to treat the fears and phobias in many companion animals using the innate prey drives of the subject.

This research has led me to re-think the ways we build and use prey drive even in the dog who seems to have no interest in chase behavior. The observations I have recorded during these studies will, I hope, allow me to come up with some new ideas for those who want to build drive in their own dog.

An excerpt (Link) authored by myself to give you a sample of the training and information you will be exposed to.

<img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> Rewards & Learning

Now that we know that the balanced use of positive reinforcement along with negative reinforcement is the most efficient way to teach the dog. We should discuss how that balance is achieved. This means you need to learn which technique to use and how to use it because choosing the wrong method at the wrong time can inhibit your training goals and in some cases produce negative results.

You may have read or seen mention a common euphemism about training that indicates like the roads to Rome, there are many ways to train a dog. While this is a true statement it is important to realize there are in fact consistencies shared with all effective dog-training methods. It is the manipulation of the motivators that makes methods differ. By understanding the motivations of our dog and being truthful to the dog’s character we can get our pet to learn in an individualized but encompassing way.

<img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> How Learning Occurs Inside the Mind of Your Dog

One very important bit of knowledge generally accepted by mainstream behavior specialist though scientific studies, is how learning occurs in the dog’s mind. All dogs learn by establishing a relationship between behavior and consequences or lack of consequences that occurred immediately after the exhibited behavior.

From this experience no matter how subtle a relationship is drawn. The relationship is viewed as either positive or negative and is associated with the behavior that lead up to the consequence. Learning takes place when the consequence of a particular behavior is delivered in a consistent way so your dog can predict the outcome based on the previous experience or experiences.

Refreshing our minds about the principles of learning, we again recognize when a positive relationship between the behavior and the consequence we can predict the dog will be inclined to perform the behavior again. Likewise, if the relationship carries sufficiently negative association to the behavior and the outcome of that behavior we gain the ability to predict a decrease in that particular behavior. Simply, if the dog doesn’t like the consequence he will avoid the behavior that lead to that consequence.

These concepts are universal for all dogs.

<img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> Understanding Reinforcement Methods

Negative Reinforcement

Negative reinforcement is when we increase a behavior by removing what the dog considers simulating and wants.

Positive Reinforcement

Positive reinforcement is anything that increases the likelihood the behavior will be repeated and the dog feels there is a positive relationship between its action and a good reward. A positive reinforcement is considered motivationally sufficient only when the dog desires to repeat the action or behavior in spite the presence of other motivations or deterrents.

What does, “A positive reinforcement is considered motivationally sufficient…” mean?

When we talk about a motivational reinforcement, we are examining what is the primary motivator (influence) for your dog to think his behavior was worth it given his individual options.

This holds true whether he is trying to receive a reward or trying to avoid a punishment. The type of rewards your dog will consider motivational will vary passed on his individual temperament (personality) and the situations within the environment that distract from his perception of the reward. Your dog is an individual after all and like you has preferences in life and in his view of what is rewarding. I ball in the hand may seem rewarding closed in training environment but its value as a reward drops in a environment that has (as the dog sees it) many interesting and potentially rewarding offers.

Lets say your dog loves to fetch a ball. Your dog is really nuts about his ball. Let’s also say your dog is attracted to other dogs and has been allowed to indulge in his desire to dog socialize freely when you are together.

If your dog is not on leash your only method of controlling your dog by using his reward to motivate is the ball. Is it likely you can get the your dog to forget the other dog completely?

The answer is of course: No.

So we now have a problem of predictability. The dog could go either way. But for humor reasons lets say your dog does want his ball more and so you can distract him enough to get him to perform an action. (Pick any obedience command.)

As soon as your dog does the action you being a prompt and good soldier of positive reinforcement deliver the ball as a reward with superb timing. Your dog knows exactly why he was rewarded.

Guess what happens next…

Right. Your dog being rewarded sufficiently has reached its peak in terms of reward potential and so your dog will in gleeful oblivion to your next command, run to the other dog for a little paw and tail talk.

This illustrates a need for balanced obedience instruction for a truly obedient dog. We need a counter to rewards so we can better predict behaviors and keep focused on the objectives at hand. But we will get on that subject later.

<img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> Enriching the Value of Your Rewards

This sections will look at ways to enrich the perception or value of any given reward. This is pretty straight forward that if we are going to use rewards the dog should have some basic true desire to get it. I like to what Mother Nature established in our dogs as motivational and try to combine them in a way that fits the dog I am working with.

My first thought about working with my dog is one of teamwork and companionship. The best trainers seem to have that “connection” to their dog that transcends the actual actions or movements they are performing together. It is a bond all can see and all good trainers and owners covet.

To get to this elusive level of teamwork we need to think about the dog’s need for social order (trust of leadership) and his behaviors as a social animal. Likes physical contact with those he trusts as part of his family.

With this in mind, we can isolate a training objective for personal reasons as much as we would do it for obedience reasons.

<img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> Enriching Social Contact as a Reward

We need to build a dog that likes our touch as much as a ball toy or food. Social contact as a primary motivator not only can be accomplished but also should be accomplished so we can offer varied, yet equally motivational rewards to our dog.

This means finding a common factor in my actions as a leader that I can tell my dog enjoys. Because most dogs are social animals that like touch contact I gingerly pat and play with my dog trying too get him to pat and play back. When my dog tries to initiate pat and play, I respond only if I initiated this social contact and not if he initiated it the game first.

Why?

Because by playing touch pat and play games only when I want to play the game I increase the value of my contact in this way. My dog increasingly likes to get it when he does a good job and expects it only when I say in a nonverbal way, “Good job buddy!”

Enriching the Value of Your Rewards - Part II

By not playing the game on the dog’s terms, he learns he has no control over this social reward unless he does something and I think him deserving of the game. Pat and play games are a true relationship builder with your dog but you should never allow the dog to feel in control of this game. At the moment your dog wants to play the most you should stop.

You will know by the amount of exuberance he is exhibiting. Stop play before you lose control by measuring and controlling your own enthusiasm according to your dog’s personality. Consider how easy it is to get him to the level of hilarity and back off slightly your pat and play energy (stimulus) so you can work effectively together.

The tempo of your pat and play needs to remain full of life and energy. If your dog is not wagging his tail in joy then you need to stop being a dead head and pick up the pace and fun a bit.

Many of you will find hardly any effort was needed in the pat and play game, before your dog wants to go “wild” with joy at your obvious understanding of his needs. By controlling the level of this pat and play reward you can use its potential to sustain the dog’s actions and attitude, as he ultimately will understand the value of your touch.

<img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> Enriching Food as a Reward

Most dogs and puppies like to eat good food (meat, cheese etc.) even if you don’t think so. In almost every dog you can find this desire to eat. Sure he may not like his garden variety dog food or he may eat only a little here and a little there but I assure you your dog will be motivated to eat a reward if you find what he likes, feed it only when training and stick with it.

You may think using food, as a reward is a bad thing. The only thing bad about using food to reward your dog is if you give a “treat” for no reason. This is not a reward and as such you should not feed your dog in this fashion. Make you dog earn his pay and reward your dog for a good job.

Rewards only used for training increase the value of the reward as perceived by your dog. Feed your dog on a schedule and don’t let your dog self-feed all day long. Pick up his food bowl after 20-30 minutes and don’t give it back for another 8 hours at least. Most dogs will learn to finish their meal because of the “increased value” of the food in the bowl.

It goes without saying; you should not feed your dog before you train. If he is hungry he will want to eat. If he wants to eat, the value of the tastiest food reward you can think of will skyrocket and you will have a productive training session.

****I hope these few ‘Draft’ articles give you some kind of inclination about me and will encourage you to join if your dog has the drives to do the work and you the ambition to work as a team.

As far as “traditional” working dogs…the key is working dog and not necessarily, shepherds, Rotts and so on. If your dog has the drive and the mentality I will know it. If it doesn’t I will offer my sympathy and bid you good luck.

Airedale's talents are guarding, hunting, tracking and military work in certain parts of the world. So to answer your question: If the dog has it then it is welcome.*****

PS sorry Van Camp...I know.. I know.. But I am shamless about promotion it seems. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" />

Originally posted by Sammy Blondin:
I have a question ~ something I have never *really* understood.... why only the traditional breeds??

I am just curious! To answer: Taking into account that each dog is unique, and responds differently to various training techniques. The main reason for accepting only traditional herding/working dog breeds for this club it to protect some of the traditions set down by the sports founders and to not waste training time on dogs who by their genetic inclinations would not be able to physically or mentally do the work.

If other clubs want to let Borzoi , Grey hounds and others into their ranks to “see if he can do it” then to me it is fine but also silly. This is not a breed exclusive club as much as I want it to be a solid working club.

Dennis,

You sure have impressive credentials. Have you titled many SchH dogs? What area(s) would you consider your strength(s)

Dennis, your definition of -R really misses the mark:

"Understanding Reinforcement Methods

Negative Reinforcement

Negative reinforcement is when we increase a behavior by removing what the dog considers stimulating and wants."

Wanna try that one again?