He was persistently barking at frogs chaining "GULP!" sounds in a pond nearby. I brought him near the pond to show him there was nothing there to worry about but he seemed irritated that he heard things and couldn't see them. ... This correction came after 3-4 inefficient low-level corrections.

This seems to me to be a lot of attention placed on something you want ignored. To take the dog over to pay attention to it, close up, and then to correct ... that seems completely counter-productive to me. It's also similar to allowing the dog to focus on another dog before correcting. TIMING is a heck of a lot more important than "level 7 or 8." But you are not there yet, IMO. You have not done the groundwork at home.

Perhaps, like you and Connie mentioned, I asked too much too soon and should've stuck longer in the backyard with it. But he's so much acting like there's nothing better in the world back there that I'm confused to establish when the right time to finally bring him for a walk is. May I should try to stay in the front yard longer then slowly progress down the street.

Yes, you should. This means many sessions. You understand that it doesn't mean a few minutes in the yard before the trip down the exciting street?

Dear Francis:
I understand your frustration re: walking your dog. My dog is a jack Russell mix and I have had quite a challenge teaching him to heel, but we have made progress.
Today I received my new video The Power of Training Dogs with food by Michael Ellis. I learned quite a bit right off the bat. The first thing I learned was about engagement. My dog needs to be engaged with me, looking to me for all things, before training begins, not just at home but in strange new enviroments as well. I am going to go back and restablish that engagement with my dog Cody. He is quite a challenge. I have learned that Jack Russells and probably other dogs with high drive, can become very agitated when we use these harder corrections. I read that JRT were bred to take abuse from the rodents they were bred to chase and destroy, so it just amps them up with rough handling.
Just a suggestion, perhaps you too would benefit from Michael Ellis training on engagement.
I was very discouraged this weekend with Cody while camping, but after watching the video I am excited about taking some steps back and making sure I firmly establish my dogs engagement with me. I have also learned that I don't have to have my dogs in a permanent heal while walking especially in a new place, I can use this new environment to help my dog feel comfortable about new places, then let the training begin later. This is covered in Ed's Video with Michael Ellis training. Sometimes we are in too much of a hurry to get our dogs trained. I probably was, my dogs are rescues and without knowing it, I probably tried to make up lost time.
Don't loose hope.

A little update. I keep doing a couple daily training sessions.

I tire him down with games, then I put on the leash and begin focus walk. He looks up to me every time I stop walking as long as we remain in the backyard.

Every step that I make closer to the street (even if there's nothing there) lowers his focus... so when I see that he's beginning to stare at the street and care less for treats(losing his focus in the process), I turn around and keep doing focus walk on my way back to the backyard, which makes his seemingly apprehensive attitude magically go away.

Any other suggestions or should I just keep going like this?

Francis,

He sounds anxious. He is anxious to be in the street (even if it comes off as aggressive or reactive or high-strung or whatever). Because, you know, he might see another person or dog and have to get all worked up and be corrected... I know this because I have anxious dogs and have been working with them for a few years now, and your description fits what mine do.

The key here is resolving his anxiety so that walking in the street is no big deal. This will probably be a long process and will require you to work in baby steps.

I would have to say that the work you are doing now is good.

A good way is to get him a bit closer each time in cycles. You will have to figure out his threshold distance - that line between comfortable and uncomfortable. At first just go up to that line. Then, get him closer and then cycle back to his comfort zone just before he gets unfocused (anxious). Then he gets a jackpot of treats and a break (throw a ball, play tug, whatever). The idea is that he will think, hey this isn't so bad. I would do 3 cycles per session with a break between each.

Soon you can go all the way to the street and back to the yard, then to the neighbors and back, then down a few houses... etc.

Good luck and keep up the good work.

Thanks Angela, that was pretty much the plan.

Were you able to totally "cure" your anxious dogs or is it a perpetual process ?

I'm kind of hoping there's a chance that he'll eventually "get it" and just turn the anxiety switch off when I bring him out for a walk. Otherwise, forever gradually walking "one house at a time" and be ready to turn tail as soon as I reach his comfort level sounds relatively tedious...

This is ironic because behaviorists like CM keep saying that the walk is a solution, not a problem.

Sometimes I watch CM's show and I'm wondering if he wouldn't just give my dog a rollerblade ride going so fast that he wouldn't have time to care about anything else than putting one paw in front of another. That's what I did with my bike sometimes ago and it gave interesting results... up to the moment he saw an angry dog and leaped toward him... under my wheel.

 Quote: Francis Daigle

.. This is ironic because behaviorists like CM keep saying that the walk is a solution, not a problem.

It is a solution.

It exposed a problem; that doesn't mean it is the problem. And now it will be the solution.

And actually, what you said about rollerblading is sorta appropriate.

One of the things you have done that I see problems with (from sad experience ) is to allow the dog to focus on a distraction or anxiety-triggering thing far too long, and then dealing with it way too late.

One of the "cures" for this misplacement of focus away from you and onto something that creates anxiety is moving. That is, marching purposefully along by its very nature eliminates a lot of the behaviors we read about here. It eliminates eating rocks. It eliminates focusing on a dog across the street when there is no pausing to stare. It eliminates pulling on the leash to walk faster, and it keeps the handler in control of direction and pace.

So my dogs' releases are chosen by me. While they are still new to me and learning that I am in charge and they do not have the job of scoping out the path for enemies or warning away approaching dogs, I use that purposeful stride with the dogs "in the zone." (Fortunately, two of mine are smaller, like yours, and have much shorter legs than I do.)

Another "cure" is indeed baby steps that desensitize the dog slowly but surely as he learns that you are in charge, that no one will be allowed to accost him, that nothing "out there" is his problem to deal with. Enhancing this process are doggy pushups, or basic obedience commands given rapidly at intervals outside the house, focus on you, with fabulous rewards. I mean fabulous rewards. If that's a tug, great! If it's bits of real bacon, great! A handler who is giving upbeat commands and handing out whatever is nearest to the dog's heart while a distraction is way over there ... can beat the distraction every time, if its level and proximity are managed as the dog is desensitized.

JMO.

Well, I've been able to successfully do this for some minor things but I am currently working on a couple of major fears for two dogs (one is terrified of cars). No cure yet, but I'm hopeful. I do know of people (some on this board) who have gotten their dogs over dog aggression this way. I agree, it's tedious and sometimes many days go by before I feel like having a session

I think that yes, at one point he will realize walking is fun. And a fast pace is definitely very helpful. My anxious dog does much better when we are running than when we just walk.

Once your work takes you into the street, and you are ready for biking, invest in a Springer - a contraption that connects to your bike and keeps the dog away from the wheels. http://www.springerusa.com

Dear Connie: I am so glad Francis is bringing this topic up.
My Cody, who was never nervous and full of adventure has now decided that he doesn't like to go anywhere. I really can't figure it out. He gets all excited, we get the leash on, and he jumps in the car, tail wagging ready to go, he gets out, we run and play and I keep him engaged with me. He prances at my side looking up at me with a happy dog face. Then out of nowhere, he decides he wants to go home. (this has happened about 3 times now) Nothing as happened to him before this. We walked each night together. After watching Michael's video on training with food, I am going back to engagement in the front yard. I did today take him out to the parking lot of costco (early no one really around). I think I need to keep the sessions shorter and more upbeat. Is there anything else I can do? I am sad for him, he used to love to explore everything he came in contact with, he loves to slide and play on the playground of the park.
I try and do the circle thing when he gets focused on going back to the car (after only about 15 minutes). hmmm what else can I tell you that will help. He isn't whinnng, there are no other dogs around, we are not near any people. He is about 2 years old now, fixed, jack russel mix.
Bottom line, can I do anything else that might help besides shortening the time we are out, ending on a positive note?
I've never had a dog who was anxious before. My other two aren't...I hope they stay that way.

 Quote: Sharon Empson

... He gets all excited, we get the leash on, and he jumps in the car, tail wagging ready to go, he gets out, we run and play and I keep him engaged with me. He prances at my side looking up at me with a happy dog face. Then out of nowhere, he decides he wants to go home. ...

Did you examine his paws thoroughly? I'd look inside too, between the pads and toes, where things can be stuck. Also, at home, I'd sit at dog level and watch his gait from the front, back, and sides.

Then make a new thread, if you would, so we don't hijack this one.

Back to ...

 Quote: Angela Burrell

Well, I've been able to successfully do this for some minor things but I am currently working on a couple of major fears for two dogs (one is terrified of cars). No cure yet, but I'm hopeful. I do know of people (some on this board) who have gotten their dogs over dog aggression this way. I agree, it's tedious and sometimes many days go by before I feel like having a session

I think that yes, at one point he will realize walking is fun. And a fast pace is definitely very helpful. My anxious dog does much better when we are running than when we just walk.

Once your work takes you into the street, and you are ready for biking, invest in a Springer - a contraption that connects to your bike and keeps the dog away from the wheels. http://www.springerusa.com