Again, thanks Connie - knowing he doesn't have to initially like coming with me, and that I can reward him when he does - I think this will really help raise my confidence that I'm doing the right thing.

Do you know if Leerburg dog edibles to Canada?

I'll check those links - right now, puppy's awake and we're going to go play!

As you'll note from the time, we didn't get out for long. Granted it is chilly.

I apologize for making repeated demands on your attention, but I am truly struggling with the tether-no correction conflict.

I literally have to drag my puppy as he doesn't want to follow me. Since reviewing the video clip, I've been offering small bits of boiled chicken - he took it twice, but then not at all. I also offered commercially prepared liver bites, he took them once, but not a second time. I have tried boiled & baked hot dogs, and, of course, three types of kibble.

I am uncomfortable dragging him, as he's already biting on the leash near his head, and runs when I hold it up or approach him. This is not what I want to happen, as this is the second pup in three months.

In November, we adopted what was believed to be an 8-week lab-collie mix. Within a week, we learned she was a husky-lab mix. I didn't learn of Leerburg until a week into our time together. She had been wandering free, and then I tethered her to me. She became so aggravated that she lunged and nipped at my face.

As I was bitten & scratched by four unknown-to-me adult boxers one day when out running, I have a timidity around dogs.

I don't want to have to find another home for our current puppy, but in less than four days, I see the same signs of not conveying that I'm alpha. This pup was so docile in it's foster home, that I fear the variable that's causing these troubles is me.

I admit to not having tethered her to me, as I am healing from back problems and bending over is problematic for me. And, I am a visual artist, and painting is difficult with a moving entity attached. So, I have him in a small open pen - about 5 sq feet, right by my feet.

I'm trying to play with him - games other than tug-of-war. I'd like to start conditioning him with markers, but given he's proving fickle about his treats, I'm not sure what's high-value and what's not.

Any & all counsel would be welcome.

What kind of feeding schedule is your puppy on? 8 week old pups are usually snack-monsters.

Its important to understand that while we are telling you that training sessions need to be fun, its vital that your pup knows that its you that runs the show... And that's why the leash is useful.

Start by letting him drag the leash- you don't have to hold it the whole time. If you are having back problems, that still gives you the option to step on the leash if he gets out of hand. Once he's used to dragging, he'll take to tethering more easily.

That's where I'd start. And FYI, my 6 month old pup still wears a drag leash in the house

Hey Bev,
how long is the line you have tethered to you?
Is it just your normal leash or a longer line?
I was thinking that maybe if you went to a bit of a longer line he might be more apt to come along with you.

I have to agree with Jessica, although it might seem trivial right now because he is so young, he still has to follow the rules. And right now, if him balking at having to follow you makes you stop, he's got the upper hand. As cute as he is, don't let the cuteness fool ya!
Im not saying correct him for it, but just don't make it an option and don't give in.

I have a regular leash - 39" long. What length would you suggest?

So, from what I understand the protocol is as follows: he's tethered to me with X feet - then move whenever I need to, reward him if he comes with me; drag him if he doesn't.

Given you're also in Canada - can you suggest any soft treats to use. I'm surprised to find that he's not interested in boiled chicken, commercial liver treats, or cooked hot dogs with any dependency.

Bev

Hi Bev,
I'm getting one overwhelming feeling reading these posts - this pup needs you to establish a schedule for her, including proper amounts of energy-burning play, downtime/nap in her crate, and mini training/bonding sessions with you (tethered or otherwise closely supervised). It sounds like you're getting frustrated trying too many things in rapid fire, and to be honest, it also sounds like the pup isn't getting enough plain play time (which burns off steam and leaves you with a pup who is a bit less likely to find distraction in EVERYTHING... at least for a little while). Remember, a tired puppy is a good puppy . Between the cold weather outside and your back injury, I'm sure this is challenging, but the pup needs opportunities to tire herself out, chasing toys, playing tug, romping after you, etc. How much activity is she getting right now?

I know this pup is very new to you, and you're right about the bonding taking time, but if you set up a daily schedule and alternate play with tethering/training and crate time (all of it dictated, enhanced through food and engagement, and supervised by YOU) - try to be consistent about timing - she should start to respond better.

I highly recommend the "watch me!" or "look!" game, to help develop focus on you. All you do is hold a treat close to your forehead, sort of between your eyes, and say "(pup name), look!" - she should follow the treat, and when her eyes are looking towards yours, mark (clicker or say "yes") and give the treat. Eventually you want her to look you in the eyes without having to hold a treat up there... we loved this game with our pup. Treating for coming when called (or rewarding with tug or play), even if it's just trotting a few feet over to you, is another easy thing to start at this age, and gets the pup moving and following you around.

And, as was mentioned, try not to constantly put food in her face (via feeding times and treats) - she'll be MUCH more interested in food as a reward or lure if she's hungry, and if she's just eaten breakfast, you loose that food drive (conversely, if you've just done a treat session, she may not immediately want her meals...). Try taking the amount of food in one of her meals (her actual kibble, or substituted chicken) and spreading it out through a morning training session, rather than putting it in her bowl.

And keep asking questions! You're in the right place to learn and work with this pup - I'd definitely give all these suggestions some time to work before you decide to rehome her (and I only say that because you mentioned it earlier)...

~Natalya

*sorry, I thought pup was a "her" ... sounds like it's a "him" ...

My puppy is fed three times a day.

He's currently on anti-biotics for kennel cough and flea meds; he appears to be ravenous, but then when offered a treat - say liver bite, or beef jerky bites, he turns away.

He went running to his bowl and when he found a fresh serving of kibble (Science Diet - puppy) that he devoured for breakie, he walked away.

Hi Natalya

Thanks for encouraging me to ask more questions, and acknowledging my frustration - which if I was truly honest is closer to fear.

I'm trying to find my schedule. We normally get up at 6ish, which is slightly earlier than we did pre-puppy. I let him out to do his morning pee-break - I go with him, but he's not tethered yet.

Then we come in - I could tether him here - but I've let him romp around an enclosed kitchen playing with his toys while I make breakfast & my son & husband move around getting ready.

My boys are both gone by 8am. I have a standing date with my girlfriend to walk three mornings a week until 9:30 or so. I return, let him out and then play. I'm not very imaginative when it comes to games, so any and all suggestions are so very welcome. I've been reluctant to play tug because I've read it builds the pup's prey drive - something I'm reticent to do given my timidity around dogs.

I have been throwing a ball, getting Buckley (you're right - he's a he) to come to me. I've also tried to get him outside so I can socialize him. He's okay in the backyard (sunny), but he's hesitant and skittish in the front. My attempts to lure him shredded chicken - the only reward he consistently accepts when inside - that he rejects.

Not wanting to challenge him too far, I hold on to his leash when he attempts to bolt back to the house, so that I'm walking aside him. I try to get a sit by the front door so I can enter first, it's an effort.

When inside, I again attempt to have him sit while I take my stuff off, by holding the leash. He's constantly gnawing at it. I gently remove it from his mouth, and offer a reward for a good "drop it" - that I verbally acknowledge with "yes".

By late morning, he's ready for a nap. Fortunately, he's walked into his crate and I have gently closed the door. We repeat this pee-play-sleep routine several times a day. I also deliberately have him in his crate when awake. He rarely cries for long when he's in his crate.

Rather than tether him to me, for reasons I've detailed in an earlier post, I have him in a small penned off area beside me in my studio.

Looking forward to more generous suggestions and counsel.

I'd love to hear your thoughts

Bev,
Again, and please don’t take this the wrong way, you have only had this dog for a couple days, stop trying to “train” him, relax and just have fun…The pup does not look at you like a pack leader right now, you just got him and he is a baby. It will all come together if you follow the advice\article\videos here.
Let him be a puppy.

He may not be eating because he is just settling in with you. His whole world just changed and probably a little stressed out with all the “new” stuff, new house, strange people trying to stuff food in his face, tethering, starting markers, etc.

One thing at a time…

Just let him settle in for a bit…

He may not know what treats are yet, he will…

Relax a little and have fun, they are only puppies for so long!!!

Someone straighten me out if I am wrong.

Bev.....first take a big deep breath, you are doing just fine


Tug is just fine to play, it won't make him scary or over the top, I promise!!!

Prey drive is good to have for training things later, it means you can reward with a toy or a game of tug rather than always using treats.

It is also a good way for me to burn off some of my youngest dogs energy.

Sit is something you could make a game of right now. I teach sit by luring, just holding a treat above their nose and gently moving it back so that their nose follows and their butt hits the floor. As soon as their butt hits the floor you can mark and treat or just treat.

Don't worry if he does it wrong, or doesn't get it right away, he has to learn how to interact with you, which is totally different from his previous pack of puppies.

Right now is time for lots of praise, and then more praise for every little thing he does well.

Lots of cuddles and kisses and playtime is the name of the game at this point, you just want him to bond and be comfortable with his new family.

If he is scared act calm and confident like the world is no big deal, this will eventually rub off on him, and don't push him to do things that are too scary.