Often, dog aggression and people aggression go hand in hand. I would say in many dogs you have dog aggression and absoulutely NO people aggression, but the opposite isn't often true.

That is, people aggression (by a dog) usually goes hand in hand with dog aggression. From what I've seen. So it might be tough to find one without the other.

If you are somehow skijoring in Georgia and ever get into racing your dog must be OK with people passing with other dogs, people 'handling' your dog for you at the start, and crowds of barking dogs, shouting people, etc. It's a tough atmosphere for a dog that might be constantly 'on guard'. In fact, it might be overwhelming.

If you decide on skijoring, or bikejoring and can pass on the springpole, and are serious about pulling sports and don't want a malinois for whatever reason, I'd go with a german shorthair pointer, given your location and the heat down there. These dogs will pull their hearts out for you, are biddable and friendly, and don't have much aggression toward anything. A shorthair pointer/husky mix would be ideal if you want a dog that will generally be a bit less sensitive but still be a serious puller.

If you want athelticism and biddability a pointer is like a catahoula without the independence that catahoulas need to hunt hugs. That's my input. What ever it might be worth.

Caitlin,

It's good that you are thinking about these issues in advance. Just like others have said, GO CHECK these dogs out (a lot of them) before you get a pup! Take your lab with you he will tell you what your getting in to.

I've got a working line (really a hunting line) intact Rhodesian Ridgeback, who is 20 months old, and it was a shock to me and my family bringing home this 7 week old alligator! And I do mean alligator. I grew up with a hyper lab and jack russell, so I thought I was ready.


I WAS WRONG!

A hunting line dog is not like your Lab AT ALL! If you are not planning on hunting this dog than expect to put in at least 20-40 hours a week in training for at least the first 2 years, I am not kidding, this is going to be a second job just to make a working line dog solid in OB to take 'out' in public.

With big dogs it will always be YOUR FAULT if anything ever happens. Remember this.

Even with this work he is borderline when it comes to taking him out in public places, He is NOT a candidate for therapy dog or Obedience. Now I would trust this dog with my life if I was out in the wild where things could eat me, but really he is a lot of dog for suburbia(Kind of like having a Ferrari to get milk and eggs at the store).

He is a stubborn hound who has the energy of a border collie, the intelligence of a GSD, and the speed of a Greyhound (similar to a Curs). When I don't do at least 3 short(3 miles is short) walks a week on/off leash he is 'difficult' to live with.

An example:
Last night we had beginning agility class (our 3rd class) lots of soft little dogs will little to no training, kind of like a dog park with leashes. It was hard to get him to focus on the task at hand and ignore everything (and every smell) going on in there. This time Hank was actually 'workable' but only after we went on a 3.5 mile bike ride (in 15 minutes!) right before class.


Moral of the story be prepared, and go in with your eyes open. The people here on Leerburg are a great resource for working dogs, but its not going to be easy with any powerful working/hunting dog.


I hope you find what your looking for in a dogo.

Thanks, he is a good lookin dog a big muscle bound tootsie pop (hard and brittle on the outside, soft sweet gooey center).

You might check in Argentina, you might have better luck finding a mellow working class dog than all the way in Russia. What I found is that when you look for a working line dog that has been 'akc'ed' you need to look for a breeder that breeds for temperament not for looks.
I'm pretty proud of the work I've done with Hank, Even my 5yr old (now 6) can walk him (with me behind on the e collar of course and a slow day in the neighborhood)
http://youtu.be/fK9htxMgiKI

I got Hank from a breeder here in Texas
http://www.pawpatchridges.com

I've spoken with a breeder in your neck of the woods who still works his ridgebacks (hogs, retrieving upland birds, and the dogs live at home)
http://waarheidridgebacks.com/waarheid.htm
Check the videos out they are pretty fun.

Interesting thread! I just wanted to add that 2 years before getting my Aussie, I thought I wanted several breeds. After meeting many dogs during the decision process, I realized none of them were for me. The temperament of the breed wasn't what I was prepared for, the health issues exceeded what I would be comfortable providing for if my dog were to end up having the common problems associated with their breed (cost of a buying a dog is just the tip of the iceburg when you have health issues to consider) and none of my chosen breeds were for me. Aussies didn't even cross my mind though I had met several I liked. I wanted a huge dog with a big head and a short coat. I ended up with a petite headed long coated 45lb dog. Aussies ended up being perfect for us after the lighbulb went off and I don't think I'll ever live a day without one.
My point is don't discount a breed because of head size, color etc. You may be discounting the perfect breed for you without even realizing it. As others have said work with a ton of dogs in the next year and a half. I'd suggest working with many breeds as well and keep notes on which characteristics you like about each breed and which breeders' dogs have been the closest to your ideal TEMPERAMENT. The rest, such as breed, gender, color etc is really secondary and it will come. I like that you are picky, but sometimes there are more important things to be picky about

If I'm looking to participate in a certain venue or sport I would go to those competitions or training clubs and see what breeds compete best. It can also be an invaluable source of breeder recommendations.

http://offa.org/ will also give you the scores of dogs that have passed OFA's. While some breeders may chose not to have negative results posted publically I have never heard of one that will not have positive ones posted.

Your best chance of avoiding HD in your new dog is choosing a breeder that breeds with a strong knowledge of their breed and their lines. And to choose a breeder that tests for it and would not think of breeding untested hips.

And as mentioned temperament or nerve is of the utmost importance. If I had to choose between good nerves or good hips, nerve would win hands down. With good nerve most all is still possible, bad nerve is very limiting both to the owner and to the dog. Even with tested breeding stock genetics can still throw you a curve ball, why take on the increased chances that comes with untested.

You have two years! Get out there and really get to see the breed in action. Find dogs you like and ask the owners where they got the dogs from.

I'm not familiar with your breed of choice but a quick google search shows that there may be a lot of health problems..... Makes it even more important to choose your breeder carefully.

Good luck with your search!