|01/||How To Housebreak A Puppy or Older Dog|
|02/||The Problem with All-Positive Training|
|03/||My Dog is Dog Aggressive|
|04/||How to Fit a Prong Collar|
|05/||Introducing a New Dog into a Home with Other Dogs|
Michael Ellis Explains the DUTCH KNPV - Part 1
Michael Ellis Explains the DUTCH KNPV - Part 2
The following article was written by a Dutch friend of mine. Bob Neijts has been involved with the KNPV sport for 15 years. I have intentionally not edited any of the article. While the English may not be correct you will get the flavor of the people who train KNPV from this article. Bob will be writing other KNPV training articles for my web site.
Actually this routine covers two exercises.
All the heeling exercises (on and off leash, next to the bike) the down stay all the jump exercises (hedge, fence and pit).
This part of the training is not very difficult to train. You start with a food pan filled with frankfurters and place it at the start of the heeling, next to the jumps or next to the place where you will do the down stay. You have to make sure that you keep the dogs attention and give him a correction when he wants to sniff or eat it. Make sure that your correction fits the dogs temperament. So no use of to much force because you are irritated when the dog wants to eat it. You have to be careful that your dog does not get afraid of the food otherwise you will notice it when you do the heeling exercise or the food refusal from the helper. You must be patient, firm and correct.
Soon your dog will understand the game and will pay no more attention to the food. At this point you move on to the next step and place the food around the field. Make the dog heel correctly and walk over it. Make the dog lay down with the food right in front of him. Repeat this exercise every time you train. Use food as often as possible. In the end you will be able to make your dog go down right on top of the food! At this point it is time to move on to the next exercise.
Kneel next to your dog and give him the command as soon as the helper moves in and offers him the food. Use a quiet but firm voice. At first make the helper get no closer then app. 3 meters from the dog. When things are getting better every time you can decrease the distance of the helper and increase the distance between the dog and you. Make sure the dog is not crawling backwards when the helpers gets closer. Make the dog clear that you will not allow that. Be firm but don't make him afraid of the exercise. First you kneel next to the dog but you can also stand next to him. Place one foot on the leash so he can't move! Every time when the helper moves in and the dog wants to move, either to attack or to crawl back, the helper stops immediately. He makes a few steps backwards and when the dog is under control he starts all over again. At first the helper throws the food from a short distance but when things are getting better he has to really offer the food to the dog. He walks in offer a piece of frankfurter with his left hand and drops it on the left side of the dog then with his right hand and drops it at the right side of the dog, makes two big steps backwards and throws it right in front of the dog makes another two big stapes backwards and walks away.
The helper has offer the food with a little pressure, so if the dog is turning his head away the helpers still pushes on a little. The helper is not allowed to touch the dog mouth with the food!
The problem is that you have to make sure your dogs stays in place whatever happens. To make it possible to do so you use a long leash and a pin with a ring on top that you can stick in the ground. Place the pin in the ground exactly at the place where you want your dog to stay. Pull the line through the ring and by pulling the line you will pull your dog to the ground right where you want him. This works very well.
Now increase the distance and also the time between the moment that you lay down your dog and the moment the helper will appear. There has to be three minutes in between.
When your dog works well at a reasonable distance it is time to move out of sight.
Now the moment is there that you will train the exercise according to the KNPV rules. Do everything by the book, use judges, different helpers, other training fields, different kinds of food and be sure you make no mistakes. Make no problem out the fact if your dog will bark at the helper or not. If he barks you can encourage him if not don't waist any time on this part. The problem is that you have to put so much pressure on your dog that it will be very difficult to do the rest of the things right.Bob’s Address:
Lagoen Hill 36
Rubber Feed Pan/Touch Tub
Aluminum Hurdle Jump
Educator ET400 Plus EXTRA Receiver on SAME Frequency
12 in Flat Leather Tug - 2 handles