My 2 yo male just developed this problem, and is now on steriods and antibiotics. He chewed one paw raw to the point of limping, and the vet saw damage to the other paw as well. The vet did suggest allergies as the most likely culprit, although she also mentioned boredom as a possibility. Since the dog gets a reasonable amont of excercize, I think allergies are more likely.
I will taper off the steroids over the next week, and when I return in a few days to have his bandages removed, we will discuss the next steps. Since he is pretty young, I do not know if this is seasonal. I did read the thread on allergies about a year ago. I was a litle alarmed to read that this seems a very chronic problem for some of your dogs. Any suggestions for my next vet visit? After I get a full diagnosis, I will let the breeder know, for his information.
Allergies have no cure -- only control, by eliminating whatever allergens can be eliminated, desensitizing if necessary for the ones that can't be, getting the dog on the best possible food to support the immune system (because allergies are an immune response), even if the allergies are not food allergies, and fighting inflammation.
So yes, you are correct that it's a chronic problem. But they can be controlled.
A very common "hot spot," IME, is indeed between the toes.
That's also a common chew-bite-lick spot for bored dogs with frustrated energy.
Reasonable exercise in the dog's yard is not usually enough, so if you have any suspicion at all that the dog is fighting frustration and boredom, I would start on two walks a day. It's *structured* exercise (like walks, swimming, training and long games of fetch, etc.) that dogs need to stay calm, fit, and healthy.
Even if this is 100% allergy-related, structured exercise is a very good thing.
You are right that a dog with allergies should not be bred.
When you go back to the vet about his paw, you could ask whether he's ready for good brisk walks.
You could also ask about skin or blood tests (both expensive, and not perfect, but the skin tests are still very useful, IMO). Some people do not do the skin tests because of the shaving, but the blood test seems to be much less accurate.
Many people start with an elimination diet, because ID-ing food allergens can be fairly simple compared to environmental allergens.
You will want to know that most canine allergies are not food allergies. Number one is flea allergies (and the dog doesn't need to "have fleas" to be affected; one bite can affect the dog all over); number two is environmental/inhalant; number three is food.
But again, foods are the easiest to ID, and a lot of dogs have both numbers 2 and 3. Also, food allergies can be so constant, because the allergens are often ingested every day.
So I would (and do) start with the elimination diet, while helping him with antihistamines and tapering off the Predsisone.
Here's part of a response from me on a recent allergy thread:
It's a good thing to control allergies for many reasons, but also to limit the use of steroids. They are a magic bullet, but the long-term side effects can be bad indeed.
http://www.thepetcenter.com/gen/itch.html
Here's a quote from
http://www.pets1st.com/Articles/00112MGrabner008CanineHealthNutrition.asp
QUOTE: To definitely diagnose food allergies, most veterinarians recommend a trial with an elimination diet - a diet that contains a protein and carbohydrate source the animal has never been exposed to.
To start with, feed the elimination diet for a period of up to 16 weeks and monitor your dog's response. Signs should abate if your dog is indeed food-allergic. To get conclusive results from the trial, your dog should ingest nothing but the elimination diet and water. That means no treats, rawhide, or chewable medications. Following this strict regimen can be difficult, especially for those living in multi pet households. END QUOTE
Allergies develop after repeated exposure, which is the reason for the emphasis on "novel" ingredients.
All JMO. <img src="http://www.leerburg.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />