Trooper is going for his SchI in December. I would like some help in the way of weaning the food from the track. I have titled dogs before but thier performance was inconsistent ( obviously my fault) in tracking. Recomendations, anyone? Our conditions are dry cattle range with very sparse vegitation. Local seasonal winds of 30-40 MPH. He is currently capable of 800 meter tracks over an hour old and article indication is 100%, all of course, with either significant food caches or streches of 20-30 yards in every footstep. Always a "jackpot" at the end. Thanks, G.
The tree of Freedom needs to be nurtured with the blood of Patriots and tyrants. Thomas Paine
Basically, there are two paths: randomizing the food on the track, or decreasing your food while increasing your force. I rely on randomizing. As the quantity of food is decreased, I make a very conscious effort to make the spacing unpredictable, and that actually takes thought. I've noticed people fall into patterns even when they think they are being random. The dog never knows when or where the food will be or how much further he has to go to find some more. If their desire for the food isnt' sufficient to keep them intense, many people add more compulsion to fill the void.
Teaching involves motivation, training requires compulsion. Read the book written by Wm. Koehler titled, Training Tracking Dogs. Very close to the German method of compulsion with the exception of the forced retrieve rather than downing on articles.
Compulsion is always an option, however, I don't care to be in a position to fix the 400+ meter bellycrawl as I have been in the past. I like your suggestion regarding intermittant placings, Lee. What about multiple training tracks; one with food throughout and another with food only at the end and interchange those in terms of which one I run first? Perhaps I'm asking a trick question, inadvertantly, in that maybe there is a better way to begin than I have that would have avioded having to fix a broken situation mid way through. There has been NO compulsion on the tracks so far. Our window for tracking, seasonally, is small as we reach temps in the 100's by June and winds howl from now until June. July brings still more heat ( tried the pre 0600 hours thing, ants kick our ass)and atmospheric/ environmental conditons don't cooperate until late October. Thanks, Gordo.
The tree of Freedom needs to be nurtured with the blood of Patriots and tyrants. Thomas Paine
Originally posted by Gordon Beyer: ... I don't care to be in a position to fix the 400+ meter bellycrawl as I have been in the past. What about multiple training tracks; one with food throughout and another with food only at the end and interchange those in terms of which one I run first?
First, if the dog is actually AFRAID to track, you have improperly/unfairly applied compulsion. The only reason for a dog to be afraid is if he a) doesn't understand WHY he got corrected (i.e., he was honestly and actively searching for the track and got hammered anyway)
b) strength of correction was excessive for his temperament
c) corrections are too inconsistent or applied late/early.
Anyway, the two tracks idea won't work and here's why: it will ony take your dog a few repetions before he notices that if the track doesn't have any food in the first 20-30', it isn't going to have any anywhere and so he should just hurry to get to the end cuz that's where the only good stuff is. They pick up on patterns like this in a heartbeat. That's why it has to be random.
I think the hardest part of correcting a dog on the track is that we honestly don't know what he is perceiving. You have to really learn your particular dog's body language in order to recognize when he is goofing off and sniffing rabbit tracks vs. when he is honestly doing his best but is having difficulty locating the exact footprint. NO DOG nails every print every time out, I don't care what method you use. They have to feel enough freedom to search when they are having diffulty without getting hammered. If I'm in doubt as to whether it is an honest effort or screwing around, I'll err on the side of caution. And a LOT of dogs don't need a real "correction" as in a pop/prong/shock when they make mistakes like allowing the wind to push them downwind of the actual prints. Often just closing your hand on the line and not allowing them to make forward progress until they get themselves back in the print is all that is required for them to understand what is required.
Thanks all, things are coming around. I have been training less frequently than I did a few weeks ago and he is actually looking forward to training again. I have a bad habit of expecting of the dog ( and often times other people) that which I demand of myself.
Robert, in so far as funny; that encapsulates my entire trialing experience.
The tree of Freedom needs to be nurtured with the blood of Patriots and tyrants. Thomas Paine
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