Agility looks fun! I'm still waiting for my husband to build some equipment for us. So far I've only gotten the adjustable jump made. Here's some plans for an A-Frame written by DanUK and taken from the Presa Guardian Dog Forum:
Build your own A-Frame
Hope this works ...and excuse its being a bit verbose ...I am really not too good at all at describing this kind of stuff though and have not had chance to edit what is essentially from memory!
Also, if people want specifics on parts, let me know and I'll have to go measure as I've lost my receipts
Introduction:
There are many guides on the Internet detailing the process of how to build various types of agility equipment. One of the most popular items is the A-Frame as it has lots to offer:
* Can be used for agility, sport training or just exercise
* Can be built to be flexible if adjustable (i.e. height)
* Can accommodate different types of dogs easily
* Can be used as a substitute for other equipment in training (e.g. Scale Wall) in order to offer a ‘lower impact’ solution for dogs.
* Can also be constructed to either fold flat, or comprise separate sections in order to make storage easier.
Why:
This guide is based upon the A-Frame I built recently which in turn was based upon designs found upon the Internet that I modified. The reason for this was that most of the designs are US in origin and often were not 100% transferable to the UK (e.g. in terms of parts and also measurements) or also suited to be left outdoors in our less temperate climate.
Lastly in terms of building, most of the guides I saw dealt with examples that when pictured in use had Collies and Toy breeds predominantly using them. As I have one dog not too far off 50KG, I wanted to ensure mine was up to that task also, even if it meant incurring increased weight.
In terms of why not just buy one …well most places wanted in the region of £450! …I think that answers that!
Well, lets detail the ins and outs, and apologise in advance for teaching any folk interested to ‘suck eggs’ as I know most folk are a lot more ‘handy’ than me.
Construction:
Construction can be broken down into several phases:
* Constructing the Frame
*Affixing the Top Section
* Applying the finish
* Adding Slats
* Joining the two halves
* Setting-up the height adjustment
Lets address each aspect in turn.
Frame:
The main structural basis for the equipment is the underlying frame. From my experience building this equipment I would say this is the key consideration for those working larger dogs.
Many of the Internet depictions either use no frame …just 2-3 vertical sections, or cross sections that are lengths of wood cut to fit between the vertical sections.
My woodworking is non-existent …wasn’t really even taught it but that’s a long other story <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" /> …
Anyhow, what I chose to do was to make the frame the exact size of my top surface with vertical sections running the full length. I then quartered the size of the surface by adding three equally spaced, horizontal struts that were as wide as the A-Frame itself. To do this, I used simple joints whereby I removed more wood from the horizontal than vertical sections. Now, the ends of the vertical sections need to be 45 degrees or so in order to make the finished equipment stable at different heights. This also means that you cannot easily have horizontal frame struts at the ends so I ended-up pretty much as the diagram shows.
In terms of the joins, I secured these each with two screws. One from the vertical section into the horizontal, the other horizontal to vertical. Hopefully the diagram makes more sense! I always used Countersunk woodscrews and a countersink bit for them to recess into my pilot whole.
http://www.interpines.f2s.com/Oscar/Frame_Pattern.png
http://www.interpines.f2s.com/Oscar/joints.png
I then assembled the frame, looked at it laid over the top surface to ensure fit, then disassembled in order to treat the wood. Once that was completed, I re-assembled and almost ready to proceed to the top section.
At the top of the frame, i.e. where one half would attach to the other …I then also installed a piece of wood for the hinges to mount to. This was actually quite tricky to do as it was not possible to screw directly into both pieces of wood from both directions, if they were mounted identically. This could be overcome by using dowel pegs or similar …or simply just making a minimal attachment and then drilling through the top section to make these pieces secure.
http://www.interpines.f2s.com/Oscar/Top_of_frame_headon.png
Top Section:
Before doing too much, I marked out my measurements in pencil on the top section, at times also using a point to make my marks as well. I then applied a base coat and allowed that to dry.
I then placed the top section over the frame and countersunk screws 1cm in from the edge, every 22 cm down each side, as well as an additional screw 5cm in from each end. Down the middle, I then countersunk screws likewise, after 5cm, as well as every 44cm from one end to the other. I used a setsquare to mark the edges of the central frame section then ensured I drilled so that the screws would hit the middle of the wood.
Once done, I now had a frame and top section, both of which were already covered with finish, but it was time to apply the “proper” finish.
Finish:
Whilst the description already mentions my applying finish both to the frame and top sections, I have avoided much detail until now, and likewise have not covered the most important aspect of the finish, applying a non-slip surface to the top-section.
When applying the finish to the wood itself, you have two choices, Paint or a Wood preservative. We’ve used paint on our club equipment ever since I’ve been a member …it comes painted on purchase …and everybody who has to fix the stuff hates the fact. If the paint is not regularly maintained, once the barrier is broken, the wood rapidly rots away and can render whole sections of expensive equipment useless, which in the case of an A-Frame essentially necessitates buying a new one, or as good as building a whole new one from new wood and salvageable parts.
Instead, my solution was to use an off-the-shelf Ronseal wood preservative and to date it looks to be working well. It is basically the stuff you use with an applicator to do fences and sheds, about £14 a bucket. As I was doing fences and sheds, I had a lot over and so that made the decision final. If you want to use contact areas for safety or competition purposes, you will need two colours to do this best, I used a Forest Green and Rich Oak as that’s what I had, plus the colours are are quite low-key and so doesn’t stick out like a sore thumb (unlike our Fire Engine Red and Brilliant White at the club which has had complaints from the NIMBY’s!).
Tip: If using stuff like Ronseal, be aware it doesn’t soak in to planed wood like it does coarse wood. It is fine for plywood which absorbs it nicely, but planed wood will not be easy to finish …and may hence justify using cheaper, unfinished wood.
So, another coat of this was applied all-over. I could have waited and done my finishing once all was assembled, but for the cost of the wood etc, it seemed crazy not to cover everything to minimise any one area decaying/rotting.
I then turned my attention to the top section and making it non-slip.
There are off-the-shelf products to accomplish this, but not only were they seemingly hard to find, they were expensive too. Working on the clubs equipment I found a cheaper way that works essentially as well.
I purchased a sack of Sand and a container of PU wood glue. I then coated the top section using a paintbrush to apply the glue in approx. 25-30cm2 (square) sections as it dries quite rapidly. I then took the sand and sprinkled it liberally over the top, using a flat off-cut of wood to press down and flatten the sand like you would plastering a wall etc. Proceed to do other sections in this way at different points in the top section, gradually joining them all together as one whole surface. Having done 5-5, go back to the first few and use a semi-stiff brush to remove the sand into a container that can be re-used as you finish the top.
Repeat until the whole top section is coated then allow to dry for several hours. Whilst drying, get rid of the largest and any obviously sharp bits, that are noticeable, though small rounded stones are OK.
If anything doesn’t look well coated, apply some more covering in the same fashion and wait for it to set thoroughly.
When done, the PU glue is basically transparent and the sand is very light in colour also. You should end up with a finish somewhere between very soft sandpaper and an artificial tennis court to the touch.
Having dried and set, apply 1 or 2 more coats of finish to both preserve the wood and make the non-slip surface the same colour as the rest of the equipment.
If using contact points, you will want to do your finishing differently. For roughly the bottom third of each section use masking tape to apply a different colour finish. When you’ve applied the non-slip surface, likewise repeat this process.
Slats:
Slats are basically applicable according to your choice and any restrictions laid down by the events you are competing for. The more slats you have, the easier it is for the dog to both ascend and descend the equipment, particularly as you reach 183cm (6&rsquo
or higher. All sizes of dog seem to benefit from having more slats.
To this end, select a size slat that is suitable for your sport and your dog. The larger the wood you use, the more it will contribute to what will already be a lot of weight. On the plus, the less likely the wood will be to split and the more easily your dog(s) will traverse the obstacle.
All that needs be said other than this is as follows:
* Ensure your slats are screwed on with properly countersunk screws to avoid dogs damaging their pads, this is the same as any other part of the equipment.
* This normally means slats endure a lot of stress, as most are only attached at the sides and the middle with single screws. In this instance, soaking the areas of the finished slats where screws will be used in the same PU glue employed to create the non-slip surface can help to avoid splitting and also be use to affix the slats in order to secure them more permanently with the screws.
Joining the two halves:
Flip both sections upside down so the frame is facing upwards. Now align and lay them end-to-end with the tops of each section touching.
For the join I used 120mm hinges from B&Q, unfortunately you only get 3 not four in a pack. Also sad is the fact that the supplied screws I found to be too long for this project. Basically, line your hinges up, and screw them on. My hinges had approx. 8 holes on each side, so I started top right on one half, bottom left on the other and so forth. In the end I used all three hinges.
This does pose a problem, as lifting the equipment now is not easy. It is not the weight itself, but the inability to avoid twisting the equipment as you raise it that can result in damage. It may be easier with two or even three people helping at this point as I encountered a lot of flex doing this alone.
Height Adjustment:
This is not as easy as it sounds and can surely be tackled in numerous ways …I’m sure none of my ideas are the best, esp’ for all the mathematicians good at triangle equations and stuff <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" />
What I did was raise the equipment to the right height, measured from both sides. I used spikes in the grass to keep that height, as well as a chain using I-bolts for safety.
For adjustment you have two options:
1. Chains
2. Supporting beams
I actually have used both, as the chains make it safer to muck about with when alone …if the equipment slips during adjustment, the chain can be used to stop it collapsing altogether. The chains are lightweight, but not really any easier to use as the main means of adjustment and imo are not as suitable for larger dogs.
Beams are better imo, they make it easier to move the equipment, whilst also keeping things more stable and less subject to flex in use.
You can use all sorts of methods to fix the height. I got two bits of wood from B&Q for £2.48 each that were about 2.2m long. Then drilled a hole centrally, 5cm in from each end.
I then used a plumb line to set the A-Frame’s height and both eye and a spirit level to determine where to drill the holes for my supporting beams. This necessitated another person to help as I really bodged it on my own
With the holes drilled, I inserted carriage bolts facing inwards, to which I affixed large washers against the frame followed by wing nuts for easy removal.
End
That is pretty-much it.
All told, it cost about £150 to produce rather than the £450 quoted and I can still set it to 4, 5 or 6 feet heights. Only major loss that stands out is you couldn't run an official competition and use it as I never looked at any 'rulebooks' ...but that's cause I don't care too much about it.
For (much) smaller dogs it could cost miles less as you could use the same wood for the frame that I ended-up using for the struts. You could also use entirely coarse (unfinished) timber and either plane it yourself …or put up with the odd splinter to save a good few quid. If you have a mate building one, you can save more money, as a 1.5l container of PU glue, a sack of sand and two tubs of Ronseal will easily stretch to making two of these jobbies.
http://www.interpines.f2s.com/Oscar/Dscf0013small.png
http://www.interpines.f2s.com/Oscar/Dscf0014small.png
http://www.interpines.f2s.com/Oscar/Dscf0015small.png
http://www.interpines.f2s.com/Oscar/AFrame_0002.wmv
Here are some links for pvc equipment plans:
http://www.parhelion.us/agility_equipment_links.htm#Building%20Plans
http://futuremach.baka.com/equip.html
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