Thats an interesting thing you did with the stakes Kelton. Id rather exit the situation too than put the dog in a crate. If I cant exit the situation I just turn my back and keep it that way. When I can exit the situation Ill just go in the house and watch from the window or go get in my vehicle.It all has much more meaning to the dog if the dog knows what NO means, so I can say NO( the dog is thinking oops!) and as I remove myself (the dog is thinking"crap")Ive ended any chance of anything remotely rewarding happening.I do belive that teaching what NO means as a puppy is important so you can go on to do these type of things with out having to physically correct the dog and possibly create a funk in your training session. The NO gives you a quick marker for the wrong behaivor.

Those stakes were placed all over as I goofed around with the dog. Just to be clear, it was to insure that I was always close to something that the dog's line could be hooked to. But if there were a bunch of crates sitting around, I could have just as easily used those...but that would have been a little weird! I would make a dramatic "no!"...say nothing more....and exit just as fast....and would make sure that I did not say "no!" until I had the end of the slack line in my hand and ready to 'clip' it. Using the line attached to the dog at all times just made it so I wasn't in the position of having to chase the dog. With your pup, maybe you can use something shorter than 12'.

You need to make sure that your dog doesn't gain access to other reinforcers during his few minutes of alone time (having fun digging or chasing passing critters or whatever). Oh, and take the toy with you when you leave.

I think after the dog has a good number of your dramatic exits under his belt, the connection between the hand bites and the 'end of fun' will be easily made. To insure that the dog experiences many of these exits, try to set yourself up such that you get the line ready too hook and then offer your hand....when the dog takes a nip, you are ready. If your dog stays right close to you while you play, you can just keep the line hooked while you play making your exit even easier.

It might be easier, though, to follow Lee's advise if you find that my method is too clumsy. Also, there is no reason that you can't use both methods.

Always pair "no!" (or your own word) at the exact time (or just prior) that you impose your penalty.

Frankly, part of the reason I post in this forum with advice is that it allows others to critique my advice and point out issues which I may not be seeing clearly. So there's something in all of this for me, too!

Keep us posted of his progress or any difficulties.

Ok, I just lost everything I was writing. im at work & the LAN went down <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif" alt="" /> So here I go again.
Happy new year to everyone <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> I wanted to update you on my progress with Luke & to thank everyone who responded to my problem in such great detail. thank you sooo verrry much!!! I started by correcting him (hard) for about 3-5 times. that did not have much effect on him. He would just spin around once after the correction & come right back at me. I thought of making the corrections so hard as to make him feel as if his life is ending but I thought better as he is still a little pup of 11 weeks or so. I find I have to keep saying that to myself over & over-he’s just a pup-he’s just a pup... So I then tried the “STOP “
(that’s what I call it) technique. where as suggested whenever his teeth touch skin I stop playing with him & pick up all toys. I did not put him in the crate because I was afraid of making the crate a negative experience. I had some trouble getting him accustomed to the crate & he still would rather not have the gate closed on him. so anyway it worked!!! teeth touch skin-I say no-I stop play-pick up toys-leave him alone in room with no toys, wondering what happened. it took about 4 times before he caught on. BUT the little bugger still tests me! he will touch his teeth on my skin, not a bite, just barley touching, I believe to see if biting is still off limits. when he does, I follow the same drill. though I must say he does have relapses when no chew toy is available. I did this intentionally to see what would happen when I pet him. he does bite but the way he does it is as if from instinct & not intentional. Though he still gets the same correction. my goal is to have him not bite me under any circumstances! I would give it about a week more & he should be fine. one thing I noticed, is the confused look he has when I first started this. its as if he cant believe he is not allowed to bite me! I feel bad for him because its as if he cant understand why he is not allowed to do his favorite thing.
Also, I have been playing with him with a rolled up towel which he loves to bite & play tug with. But since not being allowed to bite me anymore he seams to go even more harder on the towel! I am now able to lift him up while he has a good bite & swing him around. When I do this he growls/grunts??? Does anyone know what/why he does the growl/grunt, I don’t think it hurts him?
FYI: I had apprehensions about getting a puppy, mostly the potty training. Which was not to bad. But I never considered that I would be at such a loss as how to handle a puppy. I have been trying to do everything right but it is a different world regarding puppies. Btw, im used to dogs/dog training. I have trained my sisters rott & gsd. With good results, But the fact that I can ruin a good pup by over correcting or not correcting is what makes me skittish & indecisive. Im just happy that I am a member of this forum & get such great advice from experienced people such as you. Btw, I will also take the advice on getting the bite training for puppies video.
Sincerely,
Nick Barounis