Renee,
OK, you asked "how do you start a 10-12 week puppy in protection if you don't believe in prey drive?"
Well, first I will try to better define some things previously said. I do believe some dogs are driven. We can put any label on it we want, "prey" drive, "ball drive", "hot for the rag", etc. The driven dogs I am refering to are those bred over generations to be this way. I have a close local friend here in NC that says his dogs have "monster prey drive". To me, they are just super hyper. Yes, they love to chase the ball, rag, kong, etc. There was a time I would help him get his pups started by tying a rag on the end of a 4' nylon cord tied to a sawed off broom handle. I would drag and whip the rag around and the whole litter of the little dudes would scramble all over each other to get at it. I did everything I could in the conventional stable to "build" this "prey drive". I never corrected a pup for biting at me, nipping me, etc. As they grew I would use the tug. I have been down this route. There was one pup I loved, she was a Malinois/Dutch Shepherd cross. Tons of "prey" drive. But, she was so hyper, I could not keep her in my home. So in this context, yes, I do believe in "prey" drive. Those dogs that are bred to be hyper for an item, etc. --- But, working breeds were not always this way. From experience, I firmly do not believe this is the best route to obtain a great working dog. I have tried this route. Now, I have been criticized for looking to the past. Is the past always better? NO. I'm no fool. There are many things about our time that are good. But not all. I have to use the past as a reference, Why? - because in today's world what I have found in practical application to be true is so rare. So please, abide with me. I am using my knowledge of the past to help paint the picture of of what I am trying to convey. To use the analogy of the German Farmer in 1912. I use this because I love the GSD and know what it once was, and could be again. This dog (to use a sport term again) was "balanced in its drives". I simply feel the dog was not hyper. It was a working dog, bonded to it's handler/owner. I firmly do not believe a dog is a driven animal. It is a thinking animal. Now, a sporting bred dog is a "driven" animal.
I will use my GSD pup, Umsa, as an example. She is not driven. Would she play ball, kong, or rag with me if I introduced her to it? . Absolutely. Will I - NO. I do not want her oriented on that. I want her oriented on ME. Umsa lives in my home. She plays with my son. It she "hot"? - Absolutely. Is she aggressive or vicious? - NO.
I next think I need to clarify something. When I use the term "defensive" I just mean serious. If you want to think in terms of drives, think of it as "serious" drive. Fight or flight. This is what a dog in a survival situation would do. Fight or flight. I think we have a lot of common ground here. Time is constraining me, for now I will say this: In protection work, the dog should be serious. In a real confrontation, a dog is in fight/flight mode anyway. That is natural for a dog. Survival is fight or flight. However, there is no fear in a dog. Think of the lion in the wild. No fear, but if he thinks he can't win, he will flee. On another day that same lion might choose to fight. It is the same for a dog in protection. In real life against a real attacker a dog will be serious. Fight or flight. I call this Defense. Call it Serious drive if you want to . Or defense drive. -- Now, if trained the way I will descibe below, the dog will choose to fight rather than flee. The dog chooses to protect the handler. The bond is important. The handler is worth defending to the dog. Now how does prey drive fit in here? It does not. Yes, a dog can be trained in prey. I've done it. But, when it is real, defense will kick in. Any dog, I mean, any dog will fight or flee if it's life is on the line and it knows it's real. Prey drive goes out the window. Now it is for real, life or death. Prey has no place here. -- What is not achieved when you train in prey is that bond to the handler. The toy, kong, etc. "prey item" I've heard it called, this just gets in the way. The toy is a prop. It gets in way of the bond. In a real altercation, I want my dog to choose fight rather than flight. ...in a case of fight/flight in real life, a sport dog's "prey" drives are not a factor...Defense is, fight/flight is, and the sport dog will break (choose flight) in a real altercation. If a sporting dog does fight in a real situation, it is not in prey. It is in defense drive, fight drive, what ever label you want to hang on it. Call it fight drive if you want. The point is it's real, the dog knows it is real. The handler needs to be worth defending to the dog. OK, so if a dog needs to be in serious fight or flight and not prey in a real life event, then we need to train in defense or serious drive. Now think of this, I'm at a Schutzhund trial. I'm the helper. The dog closes with me. I have a club or wrench. I really go at the dog. Trying to hurt it, trying to kill it. Prey drive goes out the window. It's real now. That dog will either fight me or run. Defense drive. Survival. There will be no full mouth grip. Canines will be used, enameled daggers, the dog will sink them, release, back off, come in when there is a chance. Multiple target. Bleed me out. This is what I mean by serious drive. I firmly believe most Schutzhund dogs would flee in this scenario. If one chose to defend it's handler and really fight me, I might consider that dog. -- A pup can be trained in serious drive from the beginning.
To answer your question: How do you start a young pup if you don't use "prey" drive. OK, -- you start by working through applied stress. This builds a dog and a handler. Agility is a great starter. You start out with simple things at six weeks old. A frames, walk overs, etc. come later. You build the confidence and bond by working through things together. Follow common sense. Do age appropriate things. A young pup you take over a pile of logs as an example. Praise the pup for her accomplishment. Increase the difficulty as she grows.
You also start a young pup out on scent work. At seven weeks Umsa would find my son. I would hold her, allow him to go hide. I would release her and use the command "seek". When she found him, he would praise with "good seek". You start short and simple and build up to longer tracks on lead using items.
As far as aggitation goes, bitework, three month old malinios pups often will hang off a bite suit. You start simple. The helper aggitates the pup, then backs off. Come in, make eye with the pup, when the pup visually confronts, you back off. You praise the pup for barking out and visually confronting the helper. You have to carefully watch the eyes. You will see the point when the pup visually confronts. In the beginning, the pup may go into avoidance, which is a form of flight. If the pup turns aside, or goes into avoidance, you say nothing. Praise the pup when it barks out and and confronts the helper. There is no touch by the helper in the beginning. Let the pup win - the helper backs off. Puppy wins. You praise.
a final thing: Also, high "prey" dogs are hard to control. Which in my opinion may be why some of them are hard to make working dogs, if not impossible. Also, we have to keep in mind the GSD is a "well rounded dog." It is not the hardest biter, the fastest on foot, the most agile. It is a very
intelligent, utility dog. Overall, it can do it all, but not necessarily be the top in each area. The GSD isn't "specialized" so to say. It once was more so, and can be again. I am out of time. - Kent