Hello. What do you recommend to use on a tiny 5 pound aggressive yorkie? The owner uses a harness, and the dog does not respond to "pop" corrections. The owner is concerned about anything around the neck causing a collapsing trachea. When this dog zeros in on another dog or human, it really takes a lot to break the focus. We have worked on making sure all commands are solid in the house, but just moving into the front driveway all training goes out the window, even if the other person or dog is 2 blocks away. The pet know a solid leave it, sit, stay, and come when inside. What do you suggest to try?
Reg: 07-13-2005
Posts: 31571
Loc: North-Central coast of California
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What's your take on the kind of aggression you're seeing? Fear? Territorial? What?
IMHO, the dog needs desensitizing, whatever the trigger is, rather than corrections. (The fine-tuning of that work is guided by the trigger.)
You say he's solid indoors, and not at all anywhere else. He needs to become solid everywhere, and it starts by slowly and gradually widening his non-reactive zone.
That is, right now it sounds like he can't be in the front driveway and still be able to follow the commands that he's solid with indoors.
So -- the garage, maybe, to start? Or a back porch where there's no traffic or dogs or passersby? A balcony? You'll see when you read the threads I link you to below that you want to work outside his trigger zone ... slowly and gradually enlarging the area where he's solid as you work on distractions/desensitizing.
There are a zillion threads here on reactive and aggressive dogs and desensitizing them.
I typed DESENSITIZING in "advanced search" (up near the top of the screen, on the right). Then I adjusted the date range to be newer than 10 years and older than 5 years (because I remembered that many of the distraction and desensitizing threads happened in that range).
I got pages of returns, and I looked at the "subjects."
Here's a thread on the first page of returns that also links to other related threads:
There are plenty of other trainers' opinions and suggestions, too, if you use "advanced search" the way I described. (You might want to use AGGRESSION as a search term, too.)
Cindy too steers the questioner away from corrections and toward desensitizing and distraction training. (The dog in question on the first one I came to is chasing cars, but the training principles are the same.)
You'll see that marker training (which Cindy speaks about) is highly recommended as the basic training method in the links I posted too.
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