I've been socializing my 12 week old GSD at work.
Loves all people, he is around fork lifts, 18 wheelers backing in with air brake noise, etc, not one fear response.
Went for a longer walk yesterday, about 1/2 block away three small dogs started barking. He turned around, hackles up, tail down and started running for home, dragging me.
Is he in a fearful time in his life?
Can I fix this with more socialization?
Bad nerves?
Help!
Art <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

Were the dogs running at him or were they just being neutral, inside a fence or something? If they were running at him, I wouldn't get upset about one episode. If just the sound of the dogs barking freaked him out, I'd put special emphasis on getting him into a puppy kindergarten type of class where pups are exposed to others of their own age, so the pup isn't dominated by a bunch of adults, and learns to relax around other dogs.

Lee, they were behind a fence and just barking at him. I did not see this coming, he has shown such confidence in all other things.
I will look into the puppy school. He already understands come, sit, we are still working on down.
Thanks, Art

The puppy class is really for socialization and not training. Good luck trying to get your puppy to focus on learning a command with 12 other puppies around with whom he'd rather be playing. That said, the socialization aspect of the class is worth it.

I would be a little concerned about nerve issues if I saw this in a puppy I had. But I agree one incident is not enough to determine that.

Yup, I meant puppy kindergarten for the exposure to other pups, not for the training value. Do it NOW while you're still in the window for socializing. I've learned that dogs who have issues/fears with other dogs definitely do not automatically have a problem with people. They can be fearless with humans yet afraid of other dogs; they don't go necessarily go hand in hand, so it may not be a huge issue for you anyway as far as working ability goes.

The sound of the dogs barking and not understanding their intent is a fearful situation to a puppy. So maybe you don’t really have a problem but only a surprising situation that happened to the puppy.

A certain amount of puppy to puppy and puppy to dog play is good. In fact it is required because any experiences that are absent as a puppy may develop into apprehensive or adverse behaviors later on.

I will say you have about 2 –3 week at the most to get your dog over fear of other dogs. When the dog is acting fearful you must not reinforce the behavior with sympathy signals that will certainly convince the pup there is something to be afraid of. When you cannot supervise you puppy you need to make certain you know the environmental influences that will affect him despite your presence. You now need to think of alone situations and provide a neutral environment as much as you can for the next few months.

For changing the puppy’s attitude you are going to need to get on top of this like as soon as you read this.

From my experience the best socialization you can do is find a dog that is aloof to the puppy but tolerant. Choose carefully this dog and I understand you may not have this option. This pairing of a dog or compatible puppy to strengthen the lacking areas in puppy socialization comes from my own experience and some applied thoughts for future research into puppy behavior molding. Supervise these sessions and you need to do then as much as possible. I have had lots of luck with this strategy in weak confidence dogs.

A dog I use is a Golden retriever named Belka who is a house pet that by all accounts is a good “baby-sitter” for my client’s puppies because she likes to lie around and ignore them. The limited time spent with her is good for them because they are social animals and as such try to connect with her eventually. She will play with them in a fun but patronizing way and tolerates the younger puppy play biting her floppy ears. I used my dog Belka to illustrate the best type of dog to help you. A neutral dog that is not overly playful in doggie ways and certainly not aggressive to another dog or puppy. A playful dog may seem like the better option but it is not. The play could be intimidating to a puppy who is looking for reasons to run.

Now here is another “experimental” idea of mine that has worked and I do it in conjunction with the supervised sessions of good dog exposure.

Since part of the dogs to another dog is simulated by the actual visual of another dog I feel adding a mirror in at ground level in a way that the puppy can see his reflection is helpful.

You sort of habituate the “other” dog. Who “amazingly” does all the body language the puppy does. Eventually the puppy not being harmed by the reflection will lower front and place tail up to initiate play…so does the new dog. (wink - wink)

I do not agree with puppy kindergarten for puppies that have show fear to other dogs and puppies. The flooding of fearful things can have mixed results. In fact show me a dog with a catatonic like fear response and prove the kindergarten exposure was helpful.

If you are gong to mass scale the socialization of your puppy, you should select the trainer who makes small controlled groups over that are not over 5 puppies. The contact should controlled and not a romp situation.

Good Luck <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Thanks for all the responses!
I have noticed that when we walk by windows and he can see himself he shows some interest in his reflection. I will try the mirror idea as well as the puppy class.
He does show the play posturing with our cat.
I have been thinking about Sch or PPT with him maybe not now. Should I continue the tug work?
Thanks again!
Art

I was not pinning a catatonic like fear response to this puppy but to allow the look at the far ends of reactions and understand the variance in between in which this particular puppy may fall into. By looking at the varied reactions that are tided to a same source of anxiety gives a better understanding on how to treat fear and maybe overcome some of them.

Again I say prove the kindergarten exposure was helpful in the outcome of the puppy that has consistent fear responses to other dogs. It is a great money making idea that has had no accountability to the true outcome.

A logical socialization plan for you puppy is many places people animals and things. This may include a few sessions with a small group as controlled exposures to other dogs and other animals in general is important as I have already stated. Just remember group meetings once or twice week are for exposure purposes and that is all it is.