Matt Hammond Webboard User Reg: 05-23-2004
Posts: 103
Loc: Georgia
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Flanking is when you grab and slightly pinch the skin on the dogs back leg that connects to its body. That tenden right there is tender and it gets the dogs mind off of what it is doing. Becareful you can get bite real easy doing this. but it works.
When people get scared they call the police..When the police get scared they call K-9!
Matthew Grubb Webboard User Reg: 09-27-2002
Posts: 637
Loc: Pittsburgh, Pa.
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If you never need to flank a dog it's a good thing.... I've seen a few dogs that were flanked one too many times and became really spooked about physical contact in the rear.
Too much flanking can also cause problems with premature outing or worse... sets up for a bad bite at home when someone touches the dog in the rear.
With Ivan Balabanovs' The Game you immobilize
the tug, the dog loses interest if the tug isn't
active. As soon as he lets go, you mark the behavior with a verbal clue, and recomense the
game by activating the tug.
The ONLY problem I have with Bernhards tapes are
the Flanking for the out.
An alternative to flanking is to use an ecollar on the waist. Usually a very low level of stimulation will induce the out. The dog will out to look behind him and see what the stim is. At that point you can reel the dog back to you on a long line before a rebite. It depends on the sport/work your in as to what you want from the dog after the out.
I would have to agree to disagree with flanking for the out. I have had good results with Ivan's training methods on the out, but I think I would try to figure out the conflict in the dog as to why he won't out. In dogs that I've had problems getting to out i typiaclly use a long line and prong with the correction coming from the front of the dog, so as to not get the dog looking back at the correction but rather correcting the dog into the helper. I guess I'd also ask have you tried another method to out the dog and possibly created conflict with outing?
Didn't know it was Ivan's but I used the immobilize method with my GSD and it worked great. We have a really serious Sch III dog on the club that was given up as hopeless by 3 trainers because of refusal to out. He had been choked, shocked, beat, etc before one of our club members got him. The first night, the helper stood there for almost 20 mins with the dog growling, shaking and tugging at the sleeve. When Cesar finally let go, he was rewarded with a rebite. The second time only took 15mins <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" /> . This was 6months ago and the dog is doing great now. Our #1 helper/TD is almost all motivational and convinced the dog he can get another bite if he just lets go.
Thanks....luckily it only took 1 day to teach my dog the out....I used the Ivan Balabanov method....it worked great. From he sounds of it flanking doesn't sound like a good long-term alternative for building trust with your dog.
I bought the Flinks video and the Ivan Balabanov video. I've started using a combination of training methoods from both videos. It seems like the Balabanov video doesn't teach you to build drive, but the Flinks is all aout building drive (I guess from the title I should have known). Since this is te first dog I'm trying to competetively train, is this normal to modify training techniques for your dog?
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