Anne Vaini Webboard User Reg: 07-14-2005
Posts: 775
Loc: Wisconsin
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Jason,
The people I know that use them make their own. They take a garage door spring that the dog will not be able to completely stretch (size/weight determined by strength of dog). A length of very sturdy chain is strung inside the spring and fastened securely so that the spring may be stretched, but if the spring would break, the chain would prevent injury to the dog or people and would keep the dog restrained.
Anne Jones Webboard User Reg: 04-29-2004
Posts: 3825
Loc: Northeast
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I think that Ray Allen has them. Check their on line catalog & if you don't see it there call them & they will help you. They have very good custonmer service. A friend has one that I think that he got from there. There products are good quality & they stand behine their products. I have a couple of long lines & a tracking line from them that I am very pleased with.
Will Rambeau Moderator Reg: 01-25-2003
Posts: 5983
Loc: Idaho
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This is just my opinion only, but I haven't seen much need for the bungie type training in my experience.
The way that it's been explained to me, it sort of self-trains a dog to strike forcefully going into the bite ( against the bungies tension ). I've seen this used during the later Dean Calderon seminars and at some clubs that I visited, but the dogs that really needed this type of aid to help their bite were not dogs that I would have put a lot of training into.
I'm not big into "crutch" type training, if a dog is that weak I work to train the handler to get as far as the dog can go and we concentrate on handler skills so that with the *next* dog we get to the success that the handler wants.
I found a suitable one at tractor supply that was used for horse trailers, for 10$ about 3 feet long good snaps on both ends. No, I havent found alot of usefulness in mine, mabye during civil agitation work close in , while the handler was correcting the dog for something else. If you are going that route get a good agitation harness
maybe you could put this in another light for me but here is what i am using it for;
1) i found that it really helps the dog to hold on tighter once she hits the sleeve. i found that by using it if the dog lets up in the least it soon relizes that it is going to loose the bite
2) i think it really helps the dog to learn to come at the sleeve hard. barely comming at it wont work cause the bungey will keep her back but if she comes at it full steam ahead, the bungey will give and she can bite.
this is just what i found/ think it helps. if you have another opinion please feel free to share seeing as you have been doing this probably longer then i have been alive seeing how i am only 24. any input would be great. thanks
Tie the dog to a tire (size varies on strength and maturity of the dog)... and allow the dog to drag the tire down field... This can build insane entry speeds. and allows the helper to keep whatever level of back pressure they want.. w/o needing the handler to sprint downfield (lazy handlers)!
Hallo, I have seen more negative come out of a dog using bungee. Dog going so excited that flip in the air and knock itself out. Or even not wanting to bite after session on a bungee.
I rather have helper to be quick and work the dog in prey (run aways, not let the dog get the bite right away, and so on) where dog rally bites nicely till ready for defence.
But who knows maybe the bungee was not used in the right way. I dont need it so I dont have personal experience this comment is based on what I have seen when other people used it.
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