DavidStevenson Webboard User Reg: 12-01-2001
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My dog (GSD,2)starts to spinn while bark and hold. It started after we put obedience and defense in the protection training. Looks for me that he is in a conflict and relieves some of its pressure with this behavior.
Our helper tries so solve the problem to give him stick/whip hits when he spinns.We tried also to correct him through a third person with a long lead on the prong collar.
No break thru jet.
Are there other solutions to make the dog handle this conflict better?
Without being there it is difficult to say but my gut reaction is to have the helper put pressure on the dog every time he spins and as soon as the dog barks strong again to give a bite. I have seen some crazy tricks work well (standing on a garbage dumpster to get the dog to come in closer to the blind) but relying on the basic principle of teaching the dog to act aggressively stops pressure is usually a safe bet.
I think you answered your own question when you said, " It started after we put obedience and defense in the protection training." It sounds like this was not a problem before. I think you are right about the conflict and relieving the pressure. So, does it make sense for the helper to create more conflict with the stick/whip?? Or a prong collar??
If the dog was working properly thru prey drive bark and hold, then back-up your training. If you want to increase aggression go back on the post away from the blind. When the dog is working confidently with stronger aggression then send him to the blind in prey and give him some quick bites before he can spin. Retraining is always harder………………
This is one I have seen before. In those cases it was, for lack of a better term, prey baiting. It occured with dogs, working in primarily prey, attempting to get the agitator to move so they could bite. You will see something similar in dogs working in fight/defense, but they will be circling the agitator and stay facing the agitator they may also rush the agitator to attempt to force them to move. In a blind they will just move back and forth and may rush the agitator. What I would do is work the dog in defense on a long line or leash, depending on distance. When he turns his back thump him with the stick, when he turns back to attack have the agitator get away without the dog getting a bite. Really frustrate him with this. Then pull the dog out and start over. Lengthen the amount of time he has to do the bark and hold prior to giving the bite. Then move to just outing on some with no bite.
If you can't be a Good Example,then You'll just have to Serve as a Horrible Warning. Catherine Aird.
I got from the number 2 that he ment the dog was Sch2. Going back to the post at this stage is usually not productive. If this is not the case then I agree with your post.
DavidStevenson Webboard User Reg: 12-01-2001
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With (GSD,2) I ment he is 2 years old. We are working on SchH 1. I'am sorry for this confusion. I'll try to do better next time. Thank you all for your answers.
Robert VanCamp Webboard User Reg: 11-28-2001
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Dr. Cannon has the cure! I have worked a Dobie that would spin like this. Looked almost like he was chasing his tail. We did pretty much what Rich said. One thing to add. The very instant that I sensed the dog start to flip around is when I snaped him with the stick. I used a thin type of stick so I could be as fast as possible. I tried to "get his attention" right when he was starting to turn. If he continued to turn I tried to snap him again on the bootie very quickly- then when he turned to counter I moved away, game over.
Good advise guys. This is basically what I said. "...but relying on the basic principle of teaching the dog to act aggressively stops pressure is usually a safe bet.
The stick hit is the pressure. The realse is the bite. Running away is the frustration or drive building.
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