My GSD is 9 months old. I always feed him in his crate. We do basic obedience, and he knows who the leader is. My question is this. I make him sit while I put his food down then give him the release command. I sit down the food and rub under his chin just a second before I release him. But he's been making a slight growl and raising his lips when a do this. This is the only time he shows any aggression other than with a treat he likes. This has happened before. He's never snapped, but he has been corrected for it (over the treat). I have a remote trainer. And wondering if I should correct him for this or if I'm in the wrong? Thanks

 Quote: Chris Green

My GSD is 9 months old. I always feed him in his crate. We do basic obedience, and he knows who the leader is. My question is this. I make him sit while I put his food down then give him the release command. I sit down the food and rub under his chin just a second before I release him. But he's been making a slight growl and raising his lips when a do this. This is the only time he shows any aggression other than with a treat he likes. This has happened before. He's never snapped, but he has been corrected for it (over the treat). I have a remote trainer. And wondering if I should correct him for this or if I'm in the wrong? Thanks

Hi, Chris,

I'm not clear on why you do this (rubbing).... and when the growl happens. Is it when you rub him?

Just giving him a quick chin scratch when I sit the food down. This is when it happens.

I would hand feed the dog until he understands that you are no threat to him or his food.

I used to be a believer in taking food away, give it back, take away, give back, until the dog stopped aggressive behavior. Now, I hand feed.

Doing the previous just made me realize I was correcting the "signs" of aggression out of the dog therefore, making the dog unpredictable as to when they would snap while eating.

With handfeeding, the dogs learn that I am not a threat and there is no need to be possessive of food because I am not going to take it. They come get it and are allowed to eat in peace, for as long as it takes to handfeed.

All meals are handfed for at least two to three weeks, longer if it is needed. All dogs eat in their crates or seperate kennels. Once in a while I still handfeed the older dogs that used to have an issue. Just to reinforce that I am not a threat.

I would not pet the dog before release. I would make the dog (after hand feeding is over) either sit or down and stay while you place the bowl on the floor. Take a step back and wait for a couple seconds or so and then release. If the dog makes a move for the food before release, this is when I would correct by saying "nope, wrong" and step forward, I like to use a lead and have it to where I can step on it, to stop the dog BEFORE he gets to the food. Take him back to the same spot and perform the exercise over again.

Timing and being able to read the dog is important. If the dog starts to fidgit, that is a sign he is probably getting ready to break, so I would reinforce by saying the command.

Keep in mind that the dog must understand the command before you can practice this exercise. It is not fair to correct if the dog does not understand what you want.

I would ask your trainer, too.
I can tell you how I handled it with some dogs, although every dog is a little different.
I will hold the bowl in my two hands, close to my body, and have the dog eat from it like that. I will correct the dog with a leash correction for growling.

I had a dog that was so food-aggressive (guarded what she thought was hers) that she acted like a rabid wolf during feeding time, you could hand feed her every meal for weeks (which I did), but if she had anything else she would rip your arm off for coming near her. I also tried having her sit/down/leave it and wait, that did not help either. If I tried to hold the bowl in my lap and have her eat from it, she would try to attack me right when she started eating. The corrections is all that stopped her, and she had to first learn what a correction meant through a whole obedience program.

Some things I dont do- I do not stick my hands in the bowl, I do not taunt the dog by taking it away. Their food is the thing that is guaranteed to them, I believe taking it away is unfair in the dogs mind and makes it worse. I do not mess up puppies by putting my hands in their food and pushing them away.

After training, when I take something away from the dog, and he/she gives it up willingly, I praise and give it right back to re-enforce the fact that I am fair, and not a bully who is there to take from them. I also don't use e-collars, but I'm not saying they are bad, just that I don't personally use them. Most of the time, I want the dog to know the correction is coming from ME.

 Quote: jennifer n. hack

I would ask your trainer, too.
I can tell you how I handled it with some dogs, although every dog is a little different.
I will hold the bowl in my two hands, close to my body, and have the dog eat from it like that. I will correct the dog with a leash correction for growling.

I had a dog that was so food-aggressive (guarded what she thought was hers) that she acted like a rabid wolf during feeding time, you could hand feed her every meal for weeks (which I did), but if she had anything else she would rip your arm off for coming near her. I also tried having her sit/down/leave it and wait, that did not help either. If I tried to hold the bowl in my lap and have her eat from it, she would try to attack me right when she started eating. The corrections is all that stopped her, and she had to first learn what a correction meant through a whole obedience program.

Some things I dont do- I do not stick my hands in the bowl, I do not taunt the dog by taking it away. Their food is the thing that is guaranteed to them, I believe taking it away is unfair in the dogs mind and makes it worse. I do not mess up puppies by putting my hands in their food and pushing them away.

After training, when I take something away from the dog, and he/she gives it up willingly, I praise and give it right back to re-enforce the fact that I am fair, and not a bully who is there to take from them. I also don't use e-collars, but I'm not saying they are bad, just that I don't personally use them. Most of the time, I want the dog to know the correction is coming from ME.

I've had some growling out of Molly over the food bowl. Personally I'm of the "leave the dog alone" persuasion. I don't even know if any of my past dogs have been food aggressive or not because I never tested them.

A few years ago however I had some health problems that could return any time. Thinking about what would happen to Molly brought me back to the food issue. All my family and friends either a.) Have all the dogs they can care for. b.) Don't do pets. c.) Are cat people only d.) Are lousy pet owners who I wouldn't trust taking care of a goldfish.

The only arrangement I could make for Molly would be a rescue group who re-homes dogs. A neighbor died last summer and another neighbor and myself worked with his dog to get it into the rescue program. The only trouble with using this rescue was that they temperament test dogs and use the stupid rubber hand test.

Being a pit mix Molly would be DOA at the local shelter. They don't adopt out pitbulls or pit mixes. The only recourse is the rescue so I decided to work with her on the food aggression.

I've been using a very similar method to yours. I fill the food bowl and sit down on the floor while Molly sits and waits. When I'm in position with the bowl in my lap I give her the OK and she eats. Where the plan comes in is that I occasionally keep a few table scraps (very very high value for Molly) in my hands. Occasionally I will bring those up and put them as close to the bowl as I feel is safe without getting bitten.

So far it's worked well. Instead of tensing up, growling or snapping when my hand is near the bowl she pokes her nose into my hand to see what goodies I have.

Chris ,

Based on my experiance I would say using Jennifer's advice about using corrections on your 9 month old would be effective about 95% of the time .

But , what you should also know is that if your dog falls into the other 5% you could get bit severely .

That's why I usually recommend making your dog sit or down , then place the food in his crate , shut the door and leave , making sure noone comes around to bother the dog . Just leave him to eat in peace .


Before you make a decision please read this thread on food aggression . It goes into more detail about the advice you have already been given and then some . It's long but worth the read IMO .

http://leerburg.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Board=19&Number=197245&Searchpage=1&Main=16535&Words=&topic=0&Search=true#Post197245

I can't figure out how to post more related threads on this subject in this reply so I'll post 2 more related threads in seperate replies . Sory about that . I think they are worth reading too .

Jennifer I would appreciate it if you read them also and gave me your take on what I have posted .

http://leerburg.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Board=17&Number=192456&Searchpage=2&Main=19205&Words=Jim+Nash&topic=0&Search=true#Post192456

http://leerburg.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Board=17&Number=197799&Searchpage=1&Main=19647&Words=&topic=0&Search=true#Post197799

Thanks everyone