This may be a dumb question, and I know how I handled it with my other dog, after constantly walking around him, I finally just kept walking (right into him) and accidently fell on him, I wasn't to heavy and didn't hurt him, however it did work.
How do you train a working pup to respect your feet?
Is he getting in the way while walking, or is he laying down in inconvenient places?
On the move:
You could teach him to heel, and ask for that behavior when he's in the way.
Alternatively you can tap him in uncomfortable places with your foot and shin. Not a kick, not a real correction, just act like you don't see him there and are really clumsy.
Laying in the way:
I usually walk barefoot in the house. I'll walk up to the dog snoozing in an inappropriate place and work my toes under him and wiggle them. Not sure if it's ticklish or uncomfortable, but it always works. I then connect the action with the command "excuse me".
Play follow the leader, if he goes one way you turn and go the other way. Reward him when he is in heel position use a clicker or some sort of marker to gauge the reward. That way he will get the idea that you want him beside you not in front.
If it's a puppy i use a flexi so the pup can sniff out stuff, pick up sticks etc. Mostly in the front yard where there's been no other dogs. Puppies should be brave explorers , jmo,
If it's a puppy i use a flexi so the pup can sniff out stuff, pick up sticks etc. Mostly in the front yard where there's been no other dogs. Puppies should be brave explorers , jmo,
I agree, but maybe I should explain what she is doing. She is constantly looking at me, jumping on me and walking in front of me, maybe to get my attention, or to slow me down? dunno, but that is why I thought heading a different direction and marking when she is beside me might work! She is almost 4 months.
Thanks for the responses.
Janet you are fine to do marker training on the pup at that age just keep things short and don't get frustrated. She sounds like a little butthead which is a fun thing, no reason to NOT work on the problem you described just because it is a pup.
I started lure and molding training at 5 weeks with Maggie, (we had visitation rights at the breeder until she came home at 10 weeks.) Our sessions were too short to really teach much, but she did learn that we were trying to communicate with her, and playing along got her yummy treats.
It's never too early to start non-corrective training. You get more results for the same amount of training time with a more mature dog, but you have to live with the dog while you're waiting for it to mature, so you may as well start training earlier.
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