I know lots of people use tug or a toy as a reward for high prey drive dogs, and food is of course the most common reward.

But what about using motion as a reward when training. He doesn't really care about treats no matter what kind when we are out on a walk.
His favorite thing to do in the world is go, he doesn't care when where or how fast he just wants to go LOL.

So out on walks can I use forward motion as a reward for doing simple obedience with the clicker?

Jennifer;
I have used a release motion as a reward for a dog, by combining
the movement with a toy or food in the initial stages. I also use movement to build drive. Lots of fun for both the handler and the dog.
Happy Training,
ROni

i thought this was an interesting question due to the fact that it's related to an excercise i'm working with on my pup, ie, stopping motion to elicit a bark to eventually shape into a B&H for Sch. in this case, motion (w/toy reward) is the reward. because my pup is naturally very vocal, this has been easy to train, esp when the motion is stopped when he's drivey.

i "think" it's kind of the same principal, is it not? and it seems like if "forward motion" is a great motivator for this dog, it could result in some really pretty OB

Hi Ann;
Motion in and of itself is motivating for all animals. I would like to clear up any gray area tho. Reward needs to be seperated
from the motion in order for the dog to not defer to body language. (The Power of Training with Markers) http://leerburg.com/219.htm. For instance, if you reach in your pocket to get a piece of food in preparation to reward your dog,
the dog will respond to that motion, not completely concentrating
on what you are trying to teach the dog. When you later add movement from you and you want the dog to maintain position, well, it's just darn confusing, lolololo. Hope this helps,
Happy Training,
Roni

I think I am confused, which is no suprise!

He is not a very food driven dog, and toys are really sort of take it or leave it with him. He really is a challenge, but smart as a whip and quick to learn.

We are also only doing this for us, not for any sort of sport, except hopefully a CGC at some point.
If that makes any difference.

For instance before we leave for our walk I put him in a sit and then back off the porch to the end of the leash (4ft) and keep him in that sit on the porch for about 90 seconds.

If I click, pause and toss a treat he just watches the treat fall, he isn't interested in the treat at all, he only wants to go.
So instead I say "lets go" and he releases and off we go.

That scenario also took lots of work, he gets so amped up when it is time to go for a walk that he is nearly out of control.

The same thing happens when I put him in a sit or a down during our walks, he just doesn't care about food or toys while we are walking.

If I incorporate that pause between the marker and the reward of getting going again would he still be responding only to the motion?

Jennifer;
I would build food drive, (no food for a day) and choose a treat that is nonresistable (maybe steak or chicken) as your primary reinforcer. I would also introduce using the food in the most comfortable place for your dog. I would then move from room to room, eventually making it out the door. I would deliver the treat to his mouth. Stress causes reduction in food drive, so building the procedure in the house and then changing the location should allow you to be more important to your dog.
Once you are outside, you can reward your dog for the sit, while maintaing the position, by walking up to the dog and give a piece of food without releasing him.
Happy Training,
Roni

I'll add to Roni's good suggestions.
Going for the walk is obviously more important to the dog then any reward you've offered. Possibly the dog doesn't truely understand markers also.

You said
"and keep him in that sit on the porch for about 90 seconds".

Vary this time! Release at 10 seconds, 40 seconds, 5 seconds,15 seconds,
etc. It's way to easy to fall into a pattern without realizing it but your dog certainly will.
Release or reward ONLY when the dog is calm in the sit.

I do vary it, some walks it is 30 some it 15, others I make him hold as long as I think he will be able to.

My focus with him right now is self control, we are working on leave it, adding duration to sits and downs and just overall impulse control, he is my ADHD puppy!

I will try bits of raw steak tomorrow, that might do the trick, I just hate using raw meat on walks....bleck!

He does know the marker without a doubt, his food drive is not wonderful though, we are working on it.

Jennifer;
I would personally cook my steak or chicken, garlic and olive oil. Pretty handy when I want to hold the reward in my mouth, lololo.
Happy Training,
Roni
PS Bob's suggestion is perfect, make sure to reward much more frequently in the beginning. Tobi has amazing drives, I HAVE TO WORK ON CALMING HIM. I choose to go to him and reward in the position, using my bridging word and instead of releasing I ask him to do the walk command.

Thanks for the help,

I tend to not hold the food in my mouth after he got over excited about the treats and gave me a busted lip jumping up to get it.

but that was several months ago and he has matured and mellowed (a bit) since then.