My 9 month old male GSD has a behavior issue at obedience class. When we are in the building before class starts with his leash on he will bark and lunge if another dog walks past us. He will also bark and lunge at other dogs if we are working in a circle on our "heels". We can walk around the other dogs working on heels (the other dogs are sitting and not moving), I can recall with him without being on a lead, and we can do long sits and downs without incident. He doesn't have a problem with dogs outside of class, and actually plays nicely with dogs, even one that is in his class. I am wondering if anyone has had this issue and what advice you can offer. Thank you.

What did your trainer say when she saw your dog acting like that? Did she say anything about how to correct your dog?

 Quote: jane schellinger

My 9 month old male GSD has a behavior issue at obedience class. When we are in the building before class starts with his leash on he will bark and lunge if another dog walks past us. He will also bark and lunge at other dogs if we are working in a circle on our "heels". We can walk around the other dogs working on heels (the other dogs are sitting and not moving), I can recall with him without being on a lead, and we can do long sits and downs without incident. He doesn't have a problem with dogs outside of class, and actually plays nicely with dogs, even one that is in his class. I am wondering if anyone has had this issue and what advice you can offer. Thank you.

I'd work with him on my own, on focus and distraction-by-dog, with gradual moving closer of another dog and only gradual heightening of the "other-dogs" distraction to the level of a roomful of them in a circle with mine.

My instructor told me to sit him in front of other dogs, which I have done. He has been really relaxed and supportive about it, telling me that he is a puppy and will settle down and not to worry. Other instructors at the club (who watch our classes), and class members (who are also instructors at the club) have told me to "down him", and squeeze his muzzle until he relaxes, then let him out of the "down" once he relaxes. I have also been told to give him a shot of bitter apple to distract him, and to always watch for his "signs" and do an about turn to get his focus off of the dogs. I try all the techniques they have given me, but really haven't been able to talk to my instructor about the fact that he really just seems to have a problem with dogs walking toward him on the leash.

I agree with Connie's reply. And, I would emphasize the "focus" part of that. If he is busy watching you, he will be less interested in the other dogs. It is not surprising that he is not comfortable with dogs walking towards him; because many dogs are more reactive when approached by another dog nose to nose. And, a leash (especially if it is not loose) is another factor that can cause a dog to be more reactive. Increasing the distance from the other dogs will also help. Your trainer should be able to help you with this. If not: focus, distance, loose leash, patience, and ending with side by side leash walking with a non-reactive dog. This will take time but it's worth the effort.

Thank you, I will definitely work on this. When we were able to work outside for class and were not right on top of each other he did much better. We aren't normally around other dogs besides obedience class, and those we encounter on our walks. I will work the "focus" more on walks too when we encounter other dogs. I have been using his favorite treat in class when we work and are extremely close other dogs and this seems to work.

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I'd work with him on my own, on focus and distraction-by-dog, with gradual moving closer of another dog and only gradual heightening of the "other-dogs" distraction to the level of a roomful of them in a circle with mine.

I can't reiterate this enough. Young dogs in group classes rarely get the results of one on one training done properly.

Squeezing the nose?

Do you think we are better off taking him out of obedience until he is older then, and just working him on our own?

Squeezing his muzzle isn't my first choice of correction, but when you have someone standing over you and yelling, "do what I showed you", it makes it kind of hard to not do it

I'd walk away from that 'class' and 'trainer'.
Nose squeeze and biter apple?!!!! ugh.

Walk.......Tell them you want a refund as well.

If my dog isn't learning, I'm doing something wrong.
Randy

 Quote: jane schellinger

Do you think we are better off taking him out of obedience until he is older then, and just working him on our own?

Squeezing his muzzle isn't my first choice of correction, but when you have someone standing over you and yelling, "do what I showed you", it makes it kind of hard to not do it

That's when you say, "I am done taking your class, and I would like a refund."

Squeezing a puppy's muzzle to elicit compliance is abusive training, NOT a correction. A dog's nose is one of the most sensitive areas of their body. That would be like saying you should strike a boy in the groin when he doesn't behave.

Additionally, it's liable to make a dog handshy, and puts the handler at risk of being bit when the dog decides that hands coming near his face = pain, and he doesn't feel like being hurt today.

Imagine for a moment what would happen if the dog was treated in this way for months (during a very formative period of his development). Then a small child approaches the dog and attempts to touch his nose. Now you have a small, INJURED child.
This trainer is not only an idiot, he is a DANGEROUS idiot.

These are the only forms of corrections (anything else is simply abuse):

-Withholding of the reward
-Negative marker (verbal or visual cue that tells the dog "no, that's not it" or "knock that crap off")
-Leash correction
-E-collar correction (if e-collar is used)


There are a lot of bad "trainers" out there, and don't feel bad that you feel victim. Many very smart, well-meaning people fall victim to horrible trainers. They're professional con-artists. While their dog training skills suck, their skills at misleading and duping dog owners are excellent.

As far as your pup's reactivity towards other dogs, I would do a search of the forum for "desensitizing" and "marker training".

Work him on your own.

Group obedience is for TRAINED dogs, that simply need proofing under distraction. It is not for puppies still in the learning process.