I have a new aggression problem; this one I can see plainly how I caused it. Now I need to undo it... but that's easier said than done, and was hoping someone would have some tips/ words of wisdom.

I have a 4 year old shepherd and have had aggression issues in the past (see my previous posts.) I now live in a condo complex and usually take the elevator in/out of the building, including with my dog. I have been here 2 months and have always used a muzzle with him in the elevator, more to subdue him. It's rare when we actually encounter someone, but when we do he's usually excited/ jumpy, and the muzzle generally calms him some.

Here's where I realize my error. I should have been working with him on sitting by me until I released him. And I did do that to a point, but out of embarassment (ie. door would open, people standing there waiting to get on, me just wanting to get out and not have that awkward moment of getting the dog to sit again, who's squeaking in excitement that there's people there he might get to meet, to get right back up again... you get the idea.) So I'd let it slide, the sitting back down part, and just get off with him. A couple of times walking closely by people who were waiting he'd do a little jump in their direction, just out of exuberance.

So I've been anxious when we go out, peering around the corner, acting like I was afraid of who might be out there. Only anxious that my dog would embarass me, instead of concerned with making my dog behave and working on training. Fool!

Now, twice he's barked aggressively (and made movement towards) to a person who's gotten on the elevator with us, or was just about to get on. Again, out of embarassment I did not respond well, and only half heartedly gave him a command that he did not follow because it was weak and basically I'm an inefficient dog owner! I realize my mistake. I'm too concerned about what others' think, trying to appologize for my dog, rather than making him mind so he wouldn't act like that, then I wouldn't be embarassed. Cycle.

I see my error. Now what to do to fix it? Simply work on the training aspect, focusing on my dog and my dog only, saving the niceties for when I'm alone? He wears a prong as well whenever we go out... give him a big correction for any aggressive behavior immediately? I am afraid to go out with him now. If I was a little nervous before I'm terrified now. Sitting in the elevator now he is totally fixated and focused on that door opening. It makes my anxiety increase significantly, which, of course, is transferred to him.

Due to his CCL tear over a year ago (I also posted about) and my decision to go without surgery, he's become really unsocialized by this point. I have (for a year) tried to make his outdoor time without much excitement, so he wouldn't reinjure the healing joint. He is doing better; it seems that he's built up enough support for his knee that he can walk a pretty good distance and run around a little without too much problem. I'm back to training him around distant distractions, but unfortunately the elevator makes distractions too close = I'm fearful = my dog is too damn smart and picks this up then acts aggressively.

Any suggestions would be welcomed. It is possible we just take the stairs instead, but is avoidance the best course of action?

Stephanie, I want to start by saying I have absolutely no experience with aggressive dogs, so please, please take any advice by the more experienced trainers over anything I offer.

Excluding the aggression, I would begin again and set the dog, and yourself, up for success. You may have blown it prior to tomorrow, and you may have to undo what has been done, but dogs live in the "now" and I'd just go into it with the attitude of "I'm smarter now and we are going to do this differently".

I would use the elevator early, early in the AM or late in the PM and also enlist family or friends, or better yet, a professional trainer who can assist. If you are not stressed by who might be walking on the elevator when the door opens, you can become familiar with simply being in charge (with people you know and trust) and then it will be much easier to tranfer this to strangers. Using the stairs is only going to make you feel less successful. I would only use it during the training period when you can't pedict who is on the other side of the door. Even then - use it for training. Sit at the top, wait for the release, etc... so that you aren't projecting feelings of insecurity to the dog.

I'm offering this as much as a learning experience for myself as to hopefully toss out something which may be of benefit for you.

Stephanie,

I would start by trying to desensitize the dog to the door opening. Since proximity is a problem, try working on this issue outside of the elevator in the hallway. This allows you to control the distance. Concentrate on focus work and reward good focusing with a treat. You can have him heel and walk away from the door, if you want to increase the distance, and this gives him something else to do. This method would also probably help you to relax so there is no anxiety traveling down the leash. An additional benefit would be that he would meet your neighbors in a non-threatening environment and perhaps improve his attitude towards them. Recruiting a friend to help would insure that the elevator had a passenger or you will need to adjust the training to a time with traffic flow. I would later add treats from the friend when the elevator door opens. Eventually, you would move the work into the elevator with your friend. There is no magic fix ... this will take time and work to fix. Finally, you know your dog and his aggression issues (I do not) always keep this in mind and safety first!

Along with desensitizing out side the elevator, once you get inside, what about having him sit while you close and open the doors, but you just stay inside and he learns to focus on YOU, not the doors. And mark every time he stays sitting while the door opens and he waits (in a sit) until the door closes again? And then, once he has shown a bit of patience, walk calmly out of the elevator with a release after a slight pause after the door has opened?

Then move on to a helper standing out side of the elevator when the door opens, and he has to sit till you release.

That sounds like a good plan: desensitization and marking inside the elevator (and outside, as he focuses on me, not the doors.) There is no way to guarantee we'll not be disturbed while we do this, so what's the best way to handle any aggression he might display if we do encounter someone and he does act out? I want to be ready. I'll probably work some on this this afternoon, when it'll be slowest.

I'll leave the handling the aggression part to others way more qualified. But, what I know about elevators from riding them is that if you are on a floor and keep opening and closing the door and staying on that floor, then no one else has "called" the elevator. If the door closes and you start going to another floor, then you know there will be someone on the other side of the door when you get there. So you can prepare your demeanor and remind the dog to sit with 'good dog' before the door opens. Get his focus and attention on you and you are not surprised to see some one come in to the elevator.

I have had this problem. I improved it (not totally solved) by having the dog sit in a far corner when we enter the elevator, asking for his undivided attention during the ride using verbal markers, but I am sure treats or a toy would work well. When the elevator stops, I keep him in the sit until I open the door and make sure no-one is there. If he barks anyway, I make him quiet down, and ask my neighbor to stay there as I pace the dog back and forth or go through some other obedience routine. I am trying to show him that he has to focus on me. Last night he barked at my neighbor near the elevator, but I was able to quiet him in a few seconds. If your neighbors know that you are working hard to train him, some will understand, some will be too afraid. Let them know he never bites, that it just noise.

For a time, I only walked him at off hours, and as others have suggested, I asked a few neighbors to help out. My super used to have a Rottie and was happy to help. Unfortunately, my dog is not yet perfect, and I am moving to a new building, and am worried he will be worse there. I have to try and keep as relaxed as possible, he will read my tension.

I have a dog aggressive dog & had a fearful people aggressive dog. Obedience is the key & a very solidly trained focus command.

The dog NEEDS to know that you are there to be the leader in all things. He needs to focus 110% on you no matter if the world is coming to an end around you both.

You can desensitize him to the elevator door opening & people or other dogs coming in but the bottom line is he needs to be focusing on you the whole time.

What works for me is a down, because it puts my dog in a more relaxed & submissive state. Then if a dog or person should come into the picture & too close to our bubble I ask for a sit & a 'watch me'. My dogs know that if I say 'watch me' they keep their focus on me until I release them.

Good luck with your dog. Keep working on it.

In my less than professional opinion,

Watch or focus command is key. teach it inside and once it is solid. Then take the elevator during periods of low to no traffic to train in the problem environment with little chance of him displaying the problem behavior and like all training build distractions from there.

especially if your giving prong collar corrections, you want the dog to be focused on you and correct him for looking away, instead of trying to correct him while he is focused on the other person to get him focused on you, this can further aggressions issues.

most important thing in my experience is remaining clam, if every time the elevator door opens you get nervous you dog knows this and assumes there is something to be nervous about, the dog doesn't get their behavior is what your nervous about. everything flows down leash.

in the mean time i would consider the stairs (unless it aggravates your dogs joint problems) until things improve in the controlled training situations. If you run into the problem the dog acts aggressive and the person reacts with fear or runs away it will only reward with defense drive satisfaction.

Caveat, i don't live in a condo this is the methods i employed to deal with my rescued rotty with dog aggression issues. Aggression is something you may want to employ a credible, competent trainer to help you with.


good luck