I got the "Establishing Pack Structure" video today and have started to watch it. I know that the isolation stage is meant for the adult dogs and not puppies. What stage would you suggest I start TOby at? Keep him on a leash in the house every minute he's not in the crate? Would the No touch, no talk, no eye contact rule apply to pups? How about the no toys or playing initially? He definitely needs to learns who's boss, but at the same time is anxious, so I'm not exactly sure how to apply these rules to him.

 Quote: Kelly Schultz

, but at the same time is anxious,

Who, you or the puppy??

From reading some of the other posts, I would have him on a leash at all times so he learns you control his life. He is a puppy so the no touch, talk, eye contact thing I probably would not do, but that is just me. I always try to make it a point to brush my dogs in the evening and tell them what good girls they are, but that is just me. I feel it helps our bond and I do think they are good girls

The toys, I dont know, I didnt keep up with your other posts, others can jump in with that.

Is he really possesive of toys?

The big thing really is:

They are YOUR toys, not his, that is the lesson to be learned. He gets to play with YOUR toys under YOUR terms.



And also remember this:

Pack Structure is how you live with your dog, it is a set of rules you make (write them down if you have to), it is how you look at him, it is how you treat him (fairly and consistently), it is how you pet him, it is how you talk to him, it is about mutual respect, it is about teaching the dog what you expect of him which is done in a fair manner, it is how you act around the dog……on and on…

Have fun and good luck to you...

Edited by Scott Kapphahn (04/12/2010 03:01 PM)
Edit reason: added something

He tends to grab his toys and run away with them. He will only drop them for food. He is very anxious, although now since he growled and pulled towards 2 people and a few dogs, I am also very anxious! I know he's awful with plowing through doors and down steps before people. He's nearly caused us both to tumble down the steps a few times by suddenly darting in front of me.

 Quote: kelly schultz

I know he's awful with plowing through doors and down steps before people. He's nearly caused us both to tumble down the steps a few times by suddenly darting in front of me.

I would urge that you not allow this. Make him move. If you miss one, and he goes through a door ahead of you, both go back and you very ostentatiously precede him through the door.

Walk into him when he is in your way. Don't give way to his space -- make the reverse happen. If I had to step on a dog who was having a little trouble "getting it" that he moves out of my way, I would. I wouldn't injure him, of course, but I'd make sure he knows that he has to watch where I am going, exactly like on a walk.


I've asked owners to stand tall in front of the mirror to see and feel how it is -- to walk around inside the house with the dog on a leash and never look down at the dog but expect that the dog will be with you. I know that this is far from what's happening now on the sidewalk, but give it a shot indoors where there are no passersby or strange dogs. See how it feels to be the one in charge as well as the protector -- the one who sees a level-ten distraction up ahead and calmly changes routes or moves calmly to the side (well to the side) and engages the dog with basic ob and my pocket full of marker rewards.

I know this doesn't give you immediate desensitizing help, but get that feeling where there's no one to come along and trigger reactivity -- that feeling of marching along, in charge, not at all anxious or nervous, and sending that feeling down the leash.




There's no time when you have an unpopulated route for walking?

Sorry, I haven't answered that question yet, Connie! Not really. We live in a small town, but people are constantly out. I swear no on works anymore! There is a short route that sometimes seems to be pretty empty. I will try that tomorrow. My husband takes him at night, but that's certainly not enough for him. The treadmill's ok, but it's not solving the problem.

I have even driven dogs (and owners) to an unpopulated route so the owner could teach loose-leash (or "walk nice" or "no pull" or whatever they want to call it) with no distractions. Then the next step is a route where the distractions can be kept outside the dog's reactivity zone. That is, maybe a chain-link fence with the handler and dog on one side and people walking by on the other, or the edge of a parking lot, or the sidewalk beside a fenced high school football field, etc.

If you had a reliable "sit," then all the better for directing the dog to the sidelines to sit and focus on you, done before focus on the distraction has been established. That is, not trying to regain the dog's focus after he has started pulling and growling, but establishing it and keeping it while the distractions go by.


"There is a short route that sometimes seems to be pretty empty." Short is OK! Back and forth a few times works!

Kelly

Take a step back and only work on a couple of things at a time. Don't worry at this point about him not getting along with other dogs and other people,that concern should be at the bottom of your list for the time being.He does not need to be around other people and dogs yet,it is too distracting for him.

Like Connie suggested, practice walking without pulling in a quiet place with NO distractions.When you have gotten him to the point where he is not pulling, then go to a park or down your street. And not a dog park, there are too many distractions, especially when dogs are allowed to run off leash. You need to take BABY STEPS towards your goal of not pulling. You may have to correct him 70-80-90 times before he stops pulling.

Charge the mark, then teach him the sit and gradually build up to the stay. Teach him to sit at the door and wait until you tell him he can get up, and this will take time. In our house we place the dog in a sit, open the door and step outside of the door before allowing them to get up, this way there is no possibility of him bolting out the door in front of you.

Once he has a reliable sit,you can use this command and other basic OB commands to influence other behaviors.

Did you determine if he was aggressivly biting or playbiting, because there is a difference.

I don't know. I've seen puppy's nipping before, this seems a bit extreme. I was next to my dd today while she was going to clip a leash to him and he growled at her.
I'm not necessarily worried about him getting along with other people as I am about him seeming aggressive towards them.
I know you're also supposed to establish pack structure before anything else, which obviously we messed up on. That's why I'm trying to figure out how much of this video I should follow. I know I am going to start out with him constantly on leash in the house and putting him in the crate when he gets obnoxious or when company comes. I just don't know how "aloof" I should be with him.

Who's the dd? An immediate family member? Is that your hubby?

 Quote:

I was next to my dd today while she was going to clip a leash to him and he growled at her .

My guess would be daughter.