my dog has tried to go through a window yo get at this poor old beagle. This dog lives down the street and Keasha(dog name) has not liked this dog since she was young. Has show some dislike for other dogs only when i am with her on a walk. Once whena friend come over with her pup my dog had hair up on her back and down by her tail. No noise like a growl just tried to bite and domanate this pup. HOW cane i get my dog to be able to get along with others dogs when i am their and when i am not around.

Take a look at this thread.

http://leerburg.server294.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=23;t=000028

I agree with Lou, ED addresses this issue in his website.

For me, my dog is a little on the dog aggressive side, but I have gotten him to the point where his fear of my correction is greater than his desire to go after other dogs. I dont have any other dogs in my household, so I dont really care if my dog "likes or dislikes" other dogs and I really dont care if my dog "gets along with other dogs".. I do not go to dog parks, I do not allow him to socialize with other dogs OTHER than dogs in my schutzhund club (with an e-collar ON, or a prong). I also have no desire for my dog to "romp" with other dogs..

Just my $.02 . My dog passed his BH so obviously I could get him to the point where he "tolerates" being around other dogs.. heehee..

Unfortunately, Michael, it does not work out that way with everyone. I tried everything that Ed suggested regarding dog-to-dog aggression, and my dog only got worse. 1)I cannot physically give a hard enough correction, even with the prong, to get her to stop her behavior once she focuses on another dog and 2)She perceived the pain as coming from the other dog, and so only became worse.

I'm now working with a trainer with advanced obedience with her, specifically focusing on heel at this point - which ideally will be the position she will go to when we encounter another dog while out.

Kristen,

Ed always said "One hard correction is worth a thousand nags".. If my dog so much looks at another dog in a way that starts a fight, he WILL get a correction.. Yes, I could put my dog in a down every time another dog comes by, but I SHOULDNT HAVE TO.

This kind of training cannot be done motivationally. You can do all the advanced training in the world but dog to dog aggression cannot be solved by any other way than compulsion. This is my experience.. Other board members, feel free to jump in.

A prong collar did the trick for me, and now I only have to brush up with an e-collar.

I wanted to add one more thing. The correction of the dog for going after another dog MUST be stronger than the dog's desire to go after "fill in the blank". It can be a dog, a bird, a cockroach, an ant..... Obviously whatever you are doing, the dog is basically "giving you the finger".. Im not trying to be mean , but Im not one to sugar coat anything.. In other words, the dog must "MIND" you at all times, in all places...

No, Michael, I understand what you're trying to say. Don't worry about sugarcoating things with me - I'm the same way; blunt and to the point. I was just saying that even with the prong collar, I have been unable to give a correction that was stronger than her desire to dominate other dogs. So, I tried the e-collar, but it actually made her worse because she was associating the pain with the other dog rather than as a correction coming from me, even when I was telling her NO and/or LEAVE IT and/or whatever!

The reason for all the advanced obedience is to accomplish exactly what you said -- to have her mind me at all times in all places. Hopefully, the obedience work will help to reinforce my position over her, and then once we have that, other dogs will be gradually introduced.

Kristen,
The method lou has outlined in using the ecollar as a method to manage dog agression, pain is not the level that you work the dog in, if pain has to be used, you are too close the the distraction, and you must step back. So I would say maybe you were going too close? The distance is determined by the dog, it doesn't matter if it is 5 yds or 5000 yds, if you dog shows interest in another dog from 3 blocks away that is were you start.

Michael
Yes this method works, but you should also pair the compusive aspect with positive rewards, so that it is very clear to the dog what is expected, black and white. And you get the added benefit of the dog looking at you for their reward every time another animal shows up, not JUST avoiding a behavior to avoid a punishment. Adversives, when coupled with positive rewards, have the best outcome for this type of control issue, IMHO.

One of my dogs, a shelter dog, was seriously dog aggressive, and an exellent dog fighter (Hit 'em hard, Hit 'em fast, Hit 'em outta the blue, and never give up was her motto). She was also agressive to strangers, at times, and has territorial agrression. It took a good amount of compulsion, but also a lot of positive reinforcment, to get her to the point where she can ignore other dogs, and be friendly on command.

Kristen, You are wise to step back and work with your dog to create a better basis as to whom is boss dog especially if you cannot give correction that your dog respects. Michael, I whole heartedly agree with what Ed said "One hard tug is much better than a thousand".

Kristen - looks like you'll have to get yourself to the gym. The idea of a pinch collar is to have control of your dog which doesnt require to much strenth.
Now this isnt a personel dig but are you doing it right? My wife is only slight and her GS is quite big 70lb and hes a fairly tough dog - But with the pinch she has full control of the dog. Maybe your techniqe needs adjusting - the pinch gives the dog a short sharp shock - to accomplish this you dont need to be able to rip his head off just a good fast tug - if one doesnt do the trick then a volley of 5 or 6 good hard fast tugs in a row whilst verbally assualting the dog with the no command - scream this if need be - this will also add to the shock of the pinch correction.
Just a thought