Background. My 6 yo neutered male GSD used to be fairly aggressive with other dogs. However about 18 months ago, after we euthanized our elderly dominant female, he calmed down a great deal, and showed a lot of interest in interacting with other dogs. She was a terrible bully, and he was much happier after her death. He especially likes pups and small dogs, but even larger dogs if they are non-menacing. His overall demeanor is very calm. He will most likely ignor a barker, unless the dog has clear aggressive body language or really charges him. He is aggressive towards two dogs who live in our building (the older dog taught him that). So territorial aggression is certainly an issue.

He has also on occasion barked at any person who abruptly pulls the elevator door open in his face, or even suddenly appears in a hallway corridor. Obviously, I try to keep him from the door, but if I am inside, there is little room to manuver. I have worked on this by having him sit in the corner and wait until I release him from the sit. On the other hand, recently we had a series of workmen in the house. I always took him outside the house to meet them first, he greeted them very well, and was very friendly in the apartment. Once he knew them, and I gave permission, they could come and go freely. Otherwise he does not allow strangers in the house (barks loudly). Obviously I have no problem with that. He has never bitten anyone.

I spent the past year very slowly increasing his exposure to other dogs, this seemed very successful, I let him play on-on one on leash with many dogs. He now acts like he wants to run and play at times, but also has gotten into one fight (minor bites that broke skin on both dogs), so I let him play one-on one, but never in packs, except with other family dogs.

The question (finally!). I am moving to a new building in a new neighborhood, with new dogs/paths/parks. What is the best way to teach him to be a good neighbor for my human and canine neighbors. I cannot have him barking at people or even dogs. He was once trained with an e-collar, and I am thinking of taking that out of mothballs. He normally wears a prong and 6 foot leather lead.

So you're asking how to stop him from being a brat?

Thanks, you made me laugh. I know it is my problem, not his. He is a perfectly good dog, just mouthing off. I just hesitate to use too much force, or too much sugar. But I will do whatever works. I cannot afford to have him be a brat at the new place. I have thought of introducing him to people and dogs outside the building as much as possible in the first few weeks, as that seems to help.

So other then being a brat, what does he already know?

I think what Randy is getting at, is what basic obedience does the dog know.

Have you though about a 'watch me' command, so when he's faced with a distraction (once the command is 100% solid at home, in a no distraction environment) you can ask him to 'watch' you. Ideally this would have him ignore all outside stimuli, and make eye contact with you. With my dog I use 'Fuss' (heel) which places him on my left side, and making eye contact (or watching my face if I'm looking elsewhere)

Why does your dog need to play nicely with strange dogs? I don't expect my dog to be friendly to strange people, or strange dogs honestly. I DO expect him to ignore them.

I got him as a pup, and socialized him to young kids and other dogs. If a person admires him, I can allow them to pet him with no fear of a bad reaction. I am very careful of children, just because of his size, but few parents want their child to touch him anyway. He walks quietly at my left side, unless one of a handful of neighborhood dogs walks near. In that case, I make him heel as I walk back and forth to draw his attention to me. If he is barking, I put him in a down stay, he can't bark very effectively from that position. But I want to stop the first outburst, and yes, I want to improve his focus on me.

I have trained basic commands, and his recall is excellent for a companion animal, but not bulletproof. High distraction, such as a running deer, break his obedience. Yes, I did teach the look command once, but would need to start from day one, it has been a while.

His training started with treats, moved rapidly to markers, and now is centered on his Orbee ball. He has very good focus on the ball. We play drive and focus-style games daily. I can put him in a dow-stay, walk 50 feet away, toss the ball in brush, and have him wait until I return to him, touch his shoulder, and release him. We never play if another dog is around. If another dog approaches while he has his ball or a stick in his mouth, he growls. If another dog chased his ball, there could easily be a fight. As to why he should interact well with other dogs, it is expected in our city, and he enjoys it. I walk him on leash, I never go to dog parks as I think they are heavily used by inattentive, ignorant owners, and also because I do not think they are appropriate places for adult GSDs. But if he meets a friendly dog on a walk and they "play bow" I would like to let them meet on leash and then run about. He is not a working dog, and he seems to want to socialize. What I have in mind is to figure out which dogs are potential friends, then those dogs will no longer be strangers. I never allow my dog free access to strange dogs. I know they could fight. If needed, I stand between my dog and the strange dog and tell it off.

Hello Polly,

How is your leadership with him? Have you watched Ed's Pack Structure video? That may help get you started.. you definitley want to have good structure so he doesn't feel he has to take matters into his own hand.. In regards to him meeting dogs on a leash, sometimes this can trigger more agression as they feel confined and vunurable when on leash and can create a defensive response. not saying to just let him off of a leash, but be careful when he is on one, because this can be an issue. In regards to barking at the new place, you will want to make sure to satify his restless spirit, because if has a lot of built up energy, it will not be easy to quit a GSD.
What kind of training did he learn on the e-collar?

I Hope That Helps for Now!!

Thanks
Chris

You are thinking of using the e-collar for barking at other dogs? This would be number 101 on my list of 100 good ways to desensitize a dog to strangers (humans and dogs).


Personally, I would start with desensitizing and really beefing up focus and basic ob. Deciding which dogs might be good friends would take a back seat (even if I had that desire) to desensitizing him and toning down that reactivity.

This: "I always took him outside the house to meet them first, he greeted them very well, and was very friendly in the apartment" often works, true, but is not the perception I want the dog to have. I want the dog to accept anyone entering the house if I accept them. That should be the dog's guide.

What happens if a stranger (on your say-so) comes in your door?

We are pretty much coming at your questions from very different POVs, I admit, because while my dogs happen to have a couple of dog friends, it just happened, and it would be fine with me if they didn't have any.

But if this is the basic question: "What is the best way to teach him to be a good neighbor for my human and canine neighbors," then my basic answer is desensitizing and bullet-proof basic ob.

Chris,

I think in general he sees my husband and I as alpha, there is never any problem at home. He is really compliant with me, but tends to follow us around a little too much. I can take food from him, no issues at all. I do not feed him near another dog nor allow any sniffing near anyone else's bowl.

I do not think I have that video, if it is on-line here I will look as soon as I can. I have purchased several DVDs from Ed over the years. The e-collar was used with Lou Castle's method. I used it to get great obedience and solid recall some years back, but I would have to start from scratch.

I actually may hire a pro, one of my neighbors told me there is a former police K9 trainer in my new neighborhood. He teaches dog behavior, provides one-on-one and group training and boards dogs. I have never had much confidence in behaviorists, but I think this guy sounds like a good fit for me. Also, if he is good, I will have a safe place for Rusty when I travel.

"He is really compliant with me, but tends to follow us around a little too much."

He has no "place" command? Or maybe is not getting enough exercise?

Dialing back reactivity is a process that takes time and patience. I'm not saying "Don't consult a pro," but I am saying that I don't consider it to be a few-visits-fixit thing. That is, it's simple but a long process .... one that is rewarding and and filled with side benefits.

Have you read anything on here about desensitizing and reactivity?