While looking up "dog reactivity" on youtube I came across BAT. I am looking for a way to stop my dog from barking/growling at other dogs. He's great with them, but terrible when he sees them. I have found lots of info on this site and for the most part understand what's been in the threads. But I haven't been able to find a good video or demo of how to actually apply it to my dog in the real world. I am curious if anyone has watched the BAT dvd and if there's any good info on it. Thanks for any help, this is driving me crazy. Aside from this I have a perfect dog

Jon

I haven't yet seen the Behavior Adjustment Training videos or seminars ... just the .pdf ....

What desensitizing work have you done with the dog?

Hi Connie,

Mostly I'm just trying to re-direct him when we come across a dog. He's gotten to where he doesn't bark or growl at dogs when we are in PetsMart,he still pulls on the leash and is excited and interested in them, but doesn't bark. Although I hate dog parks sometimes I take him as a training exercise and he's fine there. The biggest concern is when we are walking and happen upon another dog, then he barks and growls. He's very good and very friendly with other dogs, so I don't understand this reaction.

I try to redirect him after he sees the other dog, then reward him or move away from the other dog. But once he sees another dog it's very hard to get him to even look at me or a treat. Sorry if this isn't too clear, I'm in a bit of a rush. Hope this helps. The problem for me is that I cannot set up a training scenario for him with another dog yet so we can practice. I am really hoping to find some video on how to handle this. I don't know if it's on any of the Leerburg dvds? Hope some of that made sense!!

Jon

I would not use the dog park.

"I try to redirect him after he sees the other dog, then reward him or move away from the other dog. But once he sees another dog it's very hard to get him to even look at me or a treat. .... The problem for me is that I cannot set up a training scenario for him with another dog yet so we can practice."

Before I retype the wheel, have you read the threads here on desensitizing? We have some really excellent step-by-step posts/threads here.

BTW, training scenarios for desensitizing might be very different from what you are imagining. For me, desensitizing work is done outside the dog's trigger zone.

But when you have more time, tell us how much you've read here on the desensitizing topic.

Thanks Connie, I must have missed a lot of the threads, I will go back and search again and re-read. Much appreciated!!

jon

If you use "advanced search" (see in the upper right corner here?), you could do two searches. Make one desensitize and another one desensitizing. Expand your date range to about three years.

You will find within some of the threads posts that direct you to other threads, too.

We really have some very detailed, very good threads on this topic, including one of "success stories" about formerly dog-reactive dogs.


(Be sure to expand your "search" date range.)

If you will bump this, I will have a little more time tomorrow to dig up a couple of links.

I was introduced to BAT this fall by a trainer on Gabriola Island. It has been a lifesaver for me and Jethro, who is highly reactive to unknown dogs and puppies. My trainer lent me the BAT dvd set, and then worked a session with me and Jethro and a stuffed lifesize dog. One of the key elements in the method is analyzing the functional reward of the dogs' aggression. A common functional reward of dog > dog reactivity is actually increasing distance from the other dog (by first charging at it, posturing, barking, etc.). So the functional reward is increased distance, to feel safer, or less threatened.

The part of the BAT training that has been a real eye-opener for me is becoming much more sensitive to Jethro's arousal cues, and stepping in sooner, before he goes over threshold. Another part is that I used to dread dog encounters when we were out on walks, but now they are opportunities for training trials, working within Jethro's zone of proximal development - that is close enough for him to notice the other dog but not so close that he feels compelled to do something about it.

I know the dvd set is expensive, but it does provide a good illustration of the approach. I found the analysis of arousal patterns really helpful.

Thanks again Connie, I will try the search again. Jenny, thanks! I think I may order the dvds', this is a problem I need to solve. It's so frustrating and embarassing. He's so good with dogs, I just don't know why his intial reaction to them is so bad. Once he's near them he's fine. Anyway, thanks again I will look into the dvds and anything else I can get my hands on!!!

Jon

Hey Jonathan, before you shell out for those dvd's think about a couple of these things in, maybe a little different way. I don't have any degrees or titles to lend me any credibility, and I definately don't study anything. We've owned 7 dogs over the years of all different temperaments. 4 of them are and have been what you would call reactive to other dogs or kids, people, different things, and to different degrees.

Its nothing terrible, but your dog isnt great with other dogs, not the way I would think of it anyway. I look at it as he's sizing them up and you've been lucky the other dog didnt take the challenge.

There's a great question when it comes to dog training that I always keep in mind. What do you do when that doesnt work? Take a look at the comments on this video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eMc-zyNfRO0&list=UU5nVq3ddV-y0ewyfNi_vhyw&index=6&feature=plcp

The one about the dog barking at a child and the reinforcement, what would you do? The answer is I would just keep doing it? Great, keep doing something that didnt work, but we have to stick to this theory.

I like things simple. I don't want to spend every minute with my dog trying to read every little signal and cue, and I'm never comfortable letting the dog think for himself in these kinds of things. I like obedience. Just that simple. Start at a distance where your dog can pay attention to you, decrease the distance when they're ready for it. Solid, focused obedience that lets them tune out the bogeymen. You'll be amazed what a confidence boost your dog will get.

I don't mean this to sound like anything personal to anyone because if all that works for you, then yeah, its the greatest thing in the world for you. But just from what I've seen with people that look to all these techniques and theories, they tend to take any little thing as a success and then get frustrated when it doesnt really stick. A few end up just giving up and spending as much time avoiding taking their dog anywhere as they did looking for cues.