I have a dog reactive Aussie, he's getting a lot better but I find it difficult to work with him in some situations. For example, if we are walking through the pet store and another dog rounds the corner, if I get him to sit, or look, or he reacts favorably and I mark it, can I reward with praise? He is way too distracted to take a treat, but if I say "good boy" will he interpret it the same as a treat? Or should I offer the treat even though I know he won't take it? Does this question make any sense?? Thanks for any advice.

Jon

 Quote: Jonathan Frost

I have a dog reactive Aussie, he's getting a lot better but I find it difficult to work with him in some situations. For example, if we are walking through the pet store and another dog rounds the corner, if I get him to sit, or look, or he reacts favorably and I mark it, can I reward with praise? He is way too distracted to take a treat, but if I say "good boy" will he interpret it the same as a treat? Or should I offer the treat even though I know he won't take it? Does this question make any sense?? Thanks for any advice.

Jon

Hi, Jon,


I think he's too close to his trigger in the situation you describe. I wouldn't have him in that kind of store yet.

What you want is for him to be at the outside edge of his reactive "ring" (zone), at a distance where he can focus on you, where the trigger is background for him and not what he is intent upon, for much more gradual proofing against strange dog appearances. This means better control for you of the physical distance between your dog and his trigger(s) than you can have in that kind of store.

Good for him that he sits, etc., but "if I get him to sit, or look, or he reacts favorably and I mark it" says to me that his reaction is still dicey.

Would that be a fair statement, or can you rely on his ob in such a situation (sudden close-up appearance of his trigger)?

Connie, thanks for your reply. No, his obedience is terrible when there are other dogs around. Very good otherwise, though still needs improvement. My problem is trying to train him around distractions. My girlfriend has 4 dogs and he's great around them, but other dogs he reacts to. My problem is finding a training scenario where we can work at a lower level. I don't really have anyone to train with or someone with another dog to work gradually with. Could/should we go to the dog park and start 100 yards or so from the fence and gradually work closer? I really wish I could find a good dvd that shows how to deal with this. He's such a sweet dog and he's great with other dogs, but his reaction is terrible I feel like if I can get him through this his life will be so much better. Thanks!

Jon

I have an Aussie who sounds very similar- did not do well ignoring other dogs when he spotted them but was really fine once he was able to interact appropriately with them.
We got through it with some tough love. I didn't ask for any ob when we went out walking and one came around at first but I did tell him that he was to continue on and verbally corrected and kept moving in the other dirrection when he started to focus in (this was long range, across the street, etc) The praise and mark came when he was doing it reliably and then it became second nature. We worked like that going back to the ignore and march on as the distance decreased and now he attends 4-H dog club and can completely ignore 14 underexercised dogs pulling their young owners all over the field
The outskirts of the dog park may be too much at this stage unless you go at a time when only one or two dogs are present. In my mind I see a jumble of uncontrolled dogs at the fence barking at you guys and that would be terrifying to a lot of dogs! I'd maybe start by going on walks near a groomer's place or vet office; timing the distance comfortably for your dog as one exits or enters.

Thanks Amy, sounds very similar to me I have been to dog parks with him, though we rarely go. He's fine in the park and around other dogs. It's walking on leash that's the problem. I know I need to train him around distractions but I find it difficult to prepare a scenario where he can succeed and not get to threshold immediately. Thanks for your advice! Maybe I need to look for a training club here....

How long have you had him?

It's nice when you have a neutral or distance-controlled dog to work with, but not crucial.

Here's an example: a spot off the sidewalk where dogs are walked past frequently but where you can be far enough away for him not to be triggered (and this is 100% individual, of course; he might need 10 feet and he might need 50 feet). Another might be the perimeter of the parking lot of that pet store you mentioned. Another might be a quiet spot near the vet's parking lot. Or outside the fence of a dog park (not at the entrance).

Have you seen any of the desensitizing threads here? I can find some and link you.

 Quote: Amy VandeWeerd

..... The outskirts of the dog park may be too much at this stage unless you go at a time when only one or two dogs are present. In my mind I see a jumble of uncontrolled dogs at the fence barking at you guys and that would be terrifying to a lot of dogs! I'd maybe start by going on walks near a groomer's place or vet office; timing the distance comfortably for your dog as one exits or enters.

Yes! This is the idea.

(I missed this post as I was typing sporadically on mine. )

With this kind of scenario, at his personal distance requirement, I work on ob and focus (using upbeat marker training and good rewards).

I have had him since he was 8 weeks. He is 2 years and 5 months now. I have seen the threads, but will re-read them. I tend to get lost in those threads. I will also take your suggestions about groomers and the vet. Thanks!!

We will also be happy to help if you want to lay out a plan and post it, looking for input about distance, commands to work on, HV rewards, or anything.

Desensitizing (usually to other dogs) is something I work on quite a bit, and there are several others (better than me!) here who have successfully dialed back reactivity in their own and other people's dogs. Please don't hesitate to ask anything you want.

This is a hugely prevalent issue, and often the true reason behind shelter surrenders. No one here minds another thread about it, I know.

BTW, I feel pretty strongly that the dog needs the distance required for him to eagerly accept rewards, and that they should be pretty HV rewards, too.