As some of you know, I've been trying to train my 11 month old rottie for schH even though he's not from working lines. I'm a very realistic person and know that there's a good chance it won't work out. So I'm preparing for the future because I do want to get involved in the sport.

So I know that many people that are into the sport keeps their dogs outside. I asked our TD if it was bad for me to be keeping my dog inside. He basically said that when you have the dog inside, especially a puppy, you're constantly telling the dog "no this, no that" basically I guess restricting the dog from things and that can cause issues in training. Some of which I have seen with Marco.

I do prefer to keep my dogs inside, but I also want to be successful at the sport. So I guess I have a few questions.

If I get another dog sometime in the future, that's better bred for the work, can I successfully keep it inside and how do I avoid doing things that will cause problems in training?

If I get another dog and keep it outside, how do you manage things like the dog barking constantly? The reason I ask that, is because, occasionally in the past if we were going to be gone for a long time during the day, we've put the dogs in the kennel for the day so they're not forced to hold it in the crate for too long and we've had one neighbor that complains about the barking.

A good dog is a good dog. If the dog really has the drive for the work...it shouldn't make any difference where the dog lives. My female sleeps (& another male that I had ) both slept on my bed & believe me had no problem doing the job & then some. Living in the house did nothing to cap their drives in any way at all.

Many kennels use bark collars to control the noise. But I would not put a bark collar on any young dogs. JMO

BTW...you don't correct pups weather they live in or out...you redirect them & use crates. No problems.

Anne, thanks for the quick response. We have used redirection and crates. I think the biggest issue I see right now is that I didn't originally get Marco for schH so for the first 4 or 5 months we were not allowing him to jump up on anyone or anything. To my inexperienced eye it seems like it has caused him to be a little hesitant to go after the tug or rag when the trainer raises it up towards his own chest. Sometimes he's more aggressive than others. However, our two trainers say its just a young rottie and they mature later than other dogs. I guess I just need to keep being patient.

Not allowing a dog to not jump up on people (that's just good manners training) has nothing to do with a dog engaging a decoy.... no matter where he holds the tug, pillow, sleeve when engaging the dog.

Again the right dog for the job doesn't have any issues engaging a decoy.

 Quote: Kory Fox

Anne, thanks for the quick response. We have used redirection and crates. I think the biggest issue I see right now is that I didn't originally get Marco for schH so for the first 4 or 5 months we were not allowing him to jump up on anyone or anything. To my inexperienced eye it seems like it has caused him to be a little hesitant to go after the tug or rag when the trainer raises it up towards his own chest. Sometimes he's more aggressive than others. However, our two trainers say its just a young rottie and they mature later than other dogs. I guess I just need to keep being patient.

This is just a teaching issue. You need to teach him which behaviors you expect/allow in the various situations. Somewhat like teaching your dog to jump agility equipment but they are expected to stay inside the fence. One occurs when you say its OK, the other is not OK and the dog needs to know so. These are teaching moments for your dog, take advantage.

As for house vs outside- I have two Shepherds I compete in IPO, Obedience, Rally O, agility and herding. I can't tell you how sorry I would be if I didn't take the time to teach house manners. Travelling to compete would be awful, and I cant imagine any hotel allowing me back with 2 out of control dogs. My husband would have also divorced me by now if the dogs were allowed to run the house...lol! I have NEVER had a problem with not enough "crazy" (drive) in any of my training. In fact, I can't imagine having these dogs thinking they can be disrespectful around me and get away with it. IMO, it would be downright dangerous.

I guess the question I need to ask then, is how do you teach him not to jump up on people or furniture inside. The reason I think that held him back some is because I kept him on leash in the house when he wasn't in the crate so when my kids or wife or anyone else walked near, he of course wanted to be a puppy and jump up, play, get attention. Since I had him on leash, he was constantly being pulled back from that. Am I wrong in thinking that when we're at training, and I'm holding the leash "being a pole" that he sometimes isn't as aggressive as I wish he'd be? Sometimes he is though, so maybe the trainers are right and I just need to be patient.

You are making this much more difficult then it all has to be.

Train & reward the behavior that you want.... using markers.

I honestly think that you are trying to making excuses for the fact that the dog may very well not be suited for the work. Just because you didn't let him jump on the couch or people walking by does not translate to his wanting or not wanting to play with the decoy...which is what is done with pups being brought along.

You are not looking for aggression or defense in an 11 mo old pup. You are looking for engagement with the decoy at that age. He is too young to be working in anything other then prey drive.

If you want to continue with this dog...just let the TD & decoy do what they do to bring a pup along. It will be evident down the road if he has what it takes to do sport work as he matures.

But, frankly, to me...I want to see what I want to see in a working dog right from the start. It takes a lot of time & effort to train a sport dog. At 11 months old you should be starting to see what the dog has & if he has a future in sport work.....late maturing or not.

Kory;

How effective is your "NO!"? By now, that should be all you need to stop him from jumping on people, and it will have no carry-over to behaviors that are desired.

Dogs are smart enough to figure out what good manners are, and what is desired on the field.

I agree with Anne; you're overthinking this.

BTW, I haven't forgotten about the info on other lines. We have not been able to meet at our club due to rain. Hopefully, I'll have some info for you soon.

"Train & reward the behavior that you want.... using markers. "



Yes! Train what you want! A dog who is sitting is not doing an unwanted behavior. A dog who is in "place" is not prancing around visitors.

And as Anne said, this is simple basic ob, trained with markers and rewards.

I guess I am just over thinking it. You have to remember I'm very new to not only the sport but also the marker training. Just trying to make as few mistakes as possible.

Anne, to clarify, I didn't mean that I was looking for him to be aggressive. I meant that sometimes when he engages the decoy its a little hesitant. Other times he's full force. If that makes sense.

Duane, my no I very strong with him. He responds very quickly. And I actually referring to working with a future dog as he already understands that jumping on people or furniture is not allowed. And whenever you're able to find out the lines is fine. I'm in no hurry.