Anybody done this before and have any tips?

I figure I'll give him/her a few days to settle down and get used to things first. He's a bit freaked out right now but listens closely and looks curious. I want to try marker training with him once he's tame.

Not an expert by any means, but I've tamed two different budgies. They were both quite young and it was pretty easy bribing them with millet.

One thing I learned the hard way though. If you want them to fly again, you should clip both wings. I made the mistake of clipping only one on my first parakeet (book told me I could do that, but didn't tell me why, and I figured less was better...). The bird was traumatized enough by being off-balance, that he never even tried to fly again.

The double clip on the second bird worked much better. Couldn't fly really, but if he fell off of something he would at least flap and slow his fall; then when his wings grew back he could fly just fine. It was much less stressful.

You need a young bird -- there is a window with these guys, if missed it's much much harder. If they have been handled, even a little, as nestlings, it's much easier. These ones are usually advertised as "handfed" or "started".
One person at a time with the training.
NEVER scare the bird. They don't forgive easily and don't forget.
They are not afraid of noise --- kind of like noise.
They need night to come, so cover the cage in the evenings. They do better with a good nite's sleep.
Good luck. Folks say these are among the hardest of the parrots to win over.

Keeping your face close to the bird helps,and putting your finger bent down and placed like a perch in front of the bird.Birds enjoy being talked to. I always put my face near the cage when meeting a new bird and making cooing sounds and the bird will often come closer. But these birds have been hand tamed from fledglings. Lots of attention,birds thrive on it. Just my own experience.

I've had a few really good ones. I never clipped wings.
Instead of filling the food cup I would just put seed in my hand an put my hand in the cage with food in it. As the got used to my had I would move it closer to the door and eventually it would be outside the dog and the birds would jump to it. After that I let them have daily free fly time in the house. I used a single word (usually the birds name) and it never seemed to take long.
A bird under a yr old will have the stripes on the head come all the way down to the beak. After that the forehead will often be white depending.
The best talkers will be the males but you can't see the color change in the cere (sp) till they are a yr old. The male's cere(sp) will be light blue and the female's will be a light tan as do most of the young ones.

I'm not doing any wing clipping. It's still got full head bars so it's maybe 4 months old.

I need a unisex name for him/her. It's spent the afternoon frozen to one perch and I haven't seen it eat or drink.

Tanner is very interested but listening when I tell him to leave it.

Definitely let it settle in and get used to new sights and sounds for a few days. Not eating is concerning. If there are stools in the cage bottom, it's eating, even if you are not seeing it. Keep the cage bottom really clean with a few white paper towels so you can tell.

What are you feeding? That boxed crap from the store is dried out s**t. A good parakeet mix is about 50% millet, 25% canary and the rest a mixture of rape, flax, hemp and oat groats. All the seed should be plump, shiny and dust-free. Parakeets are not known for being big on fruits, but I always had good luck getting mine to eat (thawed) frozen mixed vegetables, fresh broccoli and spinach or kale leaves. Oat groats are a BIG favorite with most (they are very high in fat, though - so the bird can get spoiled on them)

My best hand taming is just to rest my hand in the cage to let the bird get used to the presence and lose some of the threat factor. The put something they reeeally like (like oat groats), in your palm and gently press your finger against the lower breast right above the legs. That puts them a little off balance and they will naturally tend to want to step forward. Let them just sit there and eat off your palm for a minute, then gently press the perch against the lower breast and get them to step off again. Lather, rinse, repeat. Once they seem comfortable, you can start "stair-stepping" them from one finger to another.

I had one years ago. I never clipped his wings. He used to fly around the house a couple of times in the am & the rest of the day he would hang out on or in his cage or windowsill in the den where his cage was. If we were home, we'd leave his cage door open.

I trained him to come on my hand & also sit on my shoulder. Basically the way Bob explained he did. Taught him to say a few words & sounds. He lived almost 15 years. Found him on the cage floor one morning when I went to uncover his cage, picked him up & held him & a short while later he died in my hands.

Be careful if you let him loose & you have any mirrors around. Mine flew into the mirror over the fireplace one time. He didn't do it again..but he would go sit in front of the mirror & talk to the bird in the mirror. He like the big mirror better then the little one in his cage.

His name was Chee Chee. Can't remember for the life of me, why I named him that..but I was just a kid of 12 years old when I got him...so who knows.

Mirrors, ceiling fans, toilets with the lid up, overheating non-stick cookware, lots of household hazards. Wing-clipping is largely worthless with any bird smaller than a tiel; their bodies are so light, they usually get plenty of lift anyway.

I heard it going through its food dish so i'm assuming it's eating and drinking now.

Tanner is very tense/ alert whenever it makes a noise. He was laying next to me rather than on the chaise where he normally does. I also start a new job tonight. He hates his routine being changed.