Two Decoy/Helpers. Start the first decoy in Blind Number One. The Second Helper is in Blind Number Two.
Send the Dog to Blind Number One. It is obvious that the dog finds buddy and they do there thing. After a short but vigerous bark and guard followed by a reward bite. The decoy returns to the blind and you send the dog to blind number two.
The dog thinks your a goof till he gets the shock of his life and finds bite number two.
While the dog is keeping number Two busy. Decoy Two positions the dog so that the dog cannot see Decoy in Blind One move and set up in Blind Number Three.
Robert VanCamp Webboard User Reg: 11-28-2001
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I've been doing that, but not every blind. I have been running two decoys in random blinds with a clean set-up each time. (i.e. heel off field and come back for new set up.)
Bitch is still looking out to last blind every time on the left side, running wide to see down to last blind, even if empty.
Robert VanCamp Webboard User Reg: 11-28-2001
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Oh yes, she knows how to run her butt off in five circles to get a bite and outrun the e-collar. (That is the way she was tought.I bought this dog SchHI and "ready" for II and III.) She won't look into the blinds, and swings out wide on 4 to peak into 6. No pause, just out far enough to turn her head and look in, then she tears to five and comes around the corner to 6 barking.
She does a very fast blind "run", no "search".
Been doing random helper crap for two weeks now (4days). She still blows through the blinds, which is irking me because she is so focused and pushy with the helper in all other areas. She will shoot almost past the random helper, and have to hit the brakes to spin back around and bark. Still. . .she won't look in as she comes around smokin' turf.
I was thinking about having the helpers put some more "pressure" on her when she corners the blinds, but we had a helluva time keeping her clean so I don't want to mess that all up now.
I have a suggestion for getting her to "search" the blinds, but to me it would seem like a lot of additional work for the 1 point you'd lose for being a little wide around the blinds (and also requires building new blinds).
The blinds should be deep enough for the helper to be at least 2' behind the opening, and should have a swinging door built into the back of one of the sides. Continue with the shell game with two helpers, and if she is wide coming into the blind with the helper - the helper can run out the back door of the blind and make the dog work harder for the bite. The one down side to this is it often slows the dog down as they approach the turn for the blind.
This is what I did with my female, send to blind, when she gets to the open side of blind--PLATZ (with ecollar, if needed) and then hier to me and sit front. I did this almost every time till she was paying attention to me and not just running the pattern. This was of course, without helpers in the blind.
Then we would do random "run outs" of the blind which kept her having fun. Sometimes run out, sometimes hold and bark with bite, sometimes bark and hold and I would come up, praise her and drag her out and the guy would escape and I would start over. kept her drive high and her mind guessing about what might happen in each blind.
That darn blind search is so time consuming to teach for so few points............arg..
Robert VanCamp Webboard User Reg: 11-28-2001
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SchH3FH2 should post the answer she gave me. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" />
I know it isn't many points guys, but I want to nail the protection phase hard core. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif" alt="" /> Remember I'm just a personal protection dirt bag most of the time anyway. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />
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