Carol Blumlein Webboard User Reg: 03-29-2012
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I have been trying to figure my dog out. I have taught him to "watch". But I am having trouble keeping him watching me while we are moving. At first, I thought the class was distracting him. So, I got my HV treat and tried it at home in my yard. He watches me but then it's as though he's afraid he will run into something. In other words, he needs to see where he is going.
First get eye contact and just move your feet a bit in place. BABY moves! Get him solid with that.
Then with the dog watching you take just one half step and reward for the watching. Half step means just the left leg moves forward and IF his eyes stay on you then mark and reward.
To many get the eye contact then take off heeling till the dog looks away. (Training to failure)
It's no different then any other command. You never add distance and distraction. The distance is your moving more then the dog has been trained to do with eye contact. The distraction is your moving at all.
BTW, I want the dog to give me "eye contact" by looking at the side of my head. Another mistake is to develop strong eye contact in training then when you trial you start looking forward as you should and guess what?! The dog wants to keep eye contact so it starts to forge in order to keep that eye contact.
It doesn't happen with all dogs but keep it in mind.
If you're marker training and the dog truly understands markers then a simple "nope" (thanks Connie) when it looks at the ground and stop for 5-10 seconds and start over.
"IF" the dog really understands markers it will know that your "nope" means it did wrong and you're starting over.
A light pop on the leash a a split second after the "nope" if needed, but loss of reward can be much stronger for a driven dog then a correction.
Make sense?
Connie Sutherland Moderator Reg: 07-13-2005
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Quote: Bob Scott
If you're marker training and the dog truly understands markers then a simple "nope" (thanks Connie) when it looks at the ground and stop for 5-10 seconds and start over.
"IF" the dog really understands markers it will know that your "nope" means it did wrong and you're starting over.
A light pop on the leash a a split second after the "nope" if needed, but loss of reward can be much stronger for a driven dog then a correction.
Make sense?
I thank Ed for that "nope" negative marker. No anger, nothing but "oops, try again" is what that "nope" means. ("NO" can be so much more severe and serious.)
TOTAL agreement with Bob. And I start my heel indoors, NOT out in the world of distractions.
This is all "billboard worthy":
"First get eye contact and just move your feet a bit in place. BABY moves! Get him solid with that.
Then with the dog watching you take just one half step and reward for the watching. Half step means just the left leg moves forward and IF his eyes stay on you then mark and reward.
Too many get the eye contact then take off heeling till the dog looks away. (Training to failure)
It's no different then any other command. You never add distance and distraction (at the same time). The distance is your moving more then the dog has been trained to do with eye contact. The distraction is your moving at all.
BTW, I want the dog to give me "eye contact" by looking at the side of my head. Another mistake is to develop strong eye contact in training then when you trial you start looking forward as you should and guess what?! The dog wants to keep eye contact so it starts to forge in order to keep that eye contact.
It doesn't happen with all dogs but keep it in mind. "
Bob knows whereof he speaks.
(Yes, I emailed Bob and asked for his input here. He knows all of this backward and forward and upside down.)
"I thank Ed for that "nope" negative marker. No anger, nothing but "oops, try again" is what that "nope" means. ("NO" can be so much more severe and serious.)"
The trainer at our club has had me staying still with the dog in position looking up at me for close to a month now. No moving whatsoever. He says be patient and make it solid and it will pay off in the end. It's killing me not starting to move forward but I want to do it right and not have to fix it later. I've seen that happen with a couple dogs in our club and it's not easy to fix.
The trainer at our club has had me staying still with the dog in position looking up at me for close to a month now. No moving whatsoever. He says be patient and make it solid and it will pay off in the end. It's killing me not starting to move forward but I want to do it right and not have to fix it later. I've seen that happen with a couple dogs in our club and it's not easy to fix.
AH HAH!
So you've been cheating then based on your original post about "having trouble while moving".
Don't go against what your trainer is telling you without discussing it with him first. That includes all of the (excellent) advice you've gotten here.
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"Watching" While Heeling
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He knows all of this backward and forward and upside down.)
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