Well... I learned the hard way the importance of the recall, thankfully my dog was not injured. Story below...

Was getting ready to install a 20' flag pole in my yard ('MURICA), had Axle outside off leash in the yard but on the remote collar. We live on a dead end neighborhood, quiet for the most part. Axle was just sniffing around the yard about 3-5 feet away from me. The neighbor across teh street has a gravel area across from us that he parks his vehicles & his wife drove down the street in her car to pull in and turn around, Axle saw this car slowing down and DARTED straight for it... I tried to recall him 3-4 times with no luck, I followed exactly what the trainer had told me to do in this instance and it still didn't work. As I'm running into the street to grab his collar she notices me, she rolls down her window and apologizes for not seeing him. I told her it wasn't her fault at all but thanked her repeatedly for not hitting him.

I think back now, if she would have been continuing down the street ANY farther... I'd be writing a post about how I killed my dog. You might ask how I killed my dog? By being irresponsible and not making sure he had a proper, responsive recall in any conditions. I am a changed owner now, everyday we've been going through commands 15 - 20 minutes at a time, 3-4 times between 10 am and 230pm then my girlfriend is running commands with him the remainder of the night.


Sorry for the rant, just wanted to vent! Thanks!

Sounds like a valuable lesson was learned. There's no denying the value of a 100 percent solid, foolproof recall. Glad no one was hurt.

 Quote: Greg Meyer

Sounds like a valuable lesson was learned. There's no denying the value of a 100 percent solid, foolproof recall. Glad no one was hurt.

For sure! We have it down to 98% solid in the house, next is to start in the yard on the 30 ft leash (so we have something to snag if he tries to take off!) then from there we will start introducing more distractions, I think my main issue with training is my expectations were extremely high, and I was rushing things. I was expecting him to understand more then he learned, I am now starting the slow, steady, consistent & patient process and seeing fantastic results. I am using the eCollar as my corrections over the prong (off leash) which is working well. I'm running into an issue, I've posted a best example below.


Me : Command
Axle : No Action
Me : No.
Me : Command. eCollar Correction (while giving command).
Axle : Performs Command.


This is how it was trained to me by the trainer we used, any feedback?

I lost a dog to car when I was about 7-8 yrs old. Long story but an uncle gave us his farm dog cause it chased cars. Go figure! We lived in the inner city.
From that day forward I've never had a dog refuse a recall. I've had probably 20 dogs since then.
The recall and a solid down on command are two MUST DO commands.
If my dog would be across the street and cars are coming then the recall is #2 because I don't want the dog running to come and be in front of a car.
My dog's don't cross streets without me but you never can be to careful.
Start the recall and down when the dog is a puppy and make it the happiest, most rewarding command it will ever know.
Never stop proofing and randomly rewarding these commands.

Wow.

Wow.

God was watching out for you and your dog.

Rob. You ok?

 Quote: Rob Maltese

I am using the eCollar as my corrections over the prong (off leash) which is working well. I'm running into an issue, I've posted a best example below. Me : Command Axle : No Action Me : No. Me : Command. eCollar Correction (while giving command). Axle : Performs Command. This is how it was trained to me by the trainer we used, any feedback?

I'm not sure I would use that method in training a solid recall. Training a recall, IMHO, needs to be highly positive and fun for a dog. The approach you seem to have taken is more compulsive. Eventually, he will come, not because he wants to but because he knows he will get a correction if he doesn't. When I recall any of the dogs I've had, they turn or drop what they are doing immediately and race to me, 100% of the time. They know something good is waiting for them, a treat, a pat, a party, etc.

The way I've learned to train a recall is to start with playing puppy ping pong. Two people, start about 30 feet apart, loaded with treats. One holds the dog while the other calls "come". Dog races to the other person, person marks, treats, and has a party, jumping up and down, lots of pats, and praise. Then that person holds the dog and the process repeats. Eventually, increase the distance, to include blind recalls around corners and from different rooms. Finally, move the whole process outside and begin again. The dog has a blast doing it and it's great exercise because they do get very tired.

If the dogs balks halfway or gets distracted, I don't correct. I keep upbeat, repeat the command, always upbeat, and walk to the dog, holding my arms out in a very welcoming, come-here gesture, until the dog notices. Then I lure the dog, backpedalling, with the come command, gestures, and make it fun for the dog to follow me back to where I recalled him from. Once there, mark, treat, and party again. I never go to correct or punish a dog while teaching the recall. It needs to be the most fun thing for the dog to do, come when called because something good is waiting for him when he gets there.

Anyway, that's my approach that I learned from some pretty good trainers and it has worked tremendously. Like Bob said, the recall and a solid down are the two most important commands the dog should learn. I've recalled or downed Bailey and my other previous dogs even while they wanted to charge someone comming into our yard or chase a squirrel. That's been the best test and so far, they've been solid with it so it's worked for me. I'm sure others may weigh in also. Just something to consider.

 Quote: Greg Meyer

I'm not sure I would use that method in training a solid recall. Training a recall, IMHO, needs to be highly positive and fun for a dog. The approach you seem to have taken is more compulsive. Eventually, he will come, not because he wants to but because he knows he will get a correction if he doesn't. When I recall any of the dogs I've had, they turn or drop what they are doing immediately and race to me, 100% of the time. They know something good is waiting for them, a treat, a pat, a party, etc.

The way I've learned to train a recall is to start with playing puppy ping pong. Two people, start about 30 feet apart, loaded with treats. One holds the dog while the other calls "come". Dog races to the other person, person marks, treats, and has a party, jumping up and down, lots of pats, and praise. Then that person holds the dog and the process repeats. Eventually, increase the distance, to include blind recalls around corners and from different rooms. Finally, move the whole process outside and begin again. The dog has a blast doing it and it's great exercise because they do get very tired.

If the dogs balks halfway or gets distracted, I don't correct. I keep upbeat, repeat the command, always upbeat, and walk to the dog, holding my arms out in a very welcoming, come-here gesture, until the dog notices. Then I lure the dog, backpedalling, with the come command, gestures, and make it fun for the dog to follow me back to where I recalled him from. Once there, mark, treat, and party again. I never go to correct or punish a dog while teaching the recall. It needs to be the most fun thing for the dog to do, come when called because something good is waiting for him when he gets there.

Anyway, that's my approach that I learned from some pretty good trainers and it has worked tremendously. Like Bob said, the recall and a solid down are the two most important commands the dog should learn. I've recalled or downed Bailey and my other previous dogs even while they wanted to charge someone comming into our yard or chase a squirrel. That's been the best test and so far, they've been solid with it so it's worked for me. I'm sure others may weigh in also. Just something to consider.

 Quote: Bob Scott

I lost a dog to car when I was about 7-8 yrs old. Long story but an uncle gave us his farm dog cause it chased cars. Go figure! We lived in the inner city.
From that day forward I've never had a dog refuse a recall. I've had probably 20 dogs since then.
The recall and a solid down on command are two MUST DO commands.
If my dog would be across the street and cars are coming then the recall is #2 because I don't want the dog running to come and be in front of a car.
My dog's don't cross streets without me but you never can be to careful.
Start the recall and down when the dog is a puppy and make it the happiest, most rewarding command it will ever know.
Never stop proofing and randomly rewarding these commands.

I wish I had more time to say more, but these two cover it really well. Big ditto!

Well what do you do with a less motivated dog? Or a dog that constantly challenges the recall?

I have a friend with a tough masttif mix that has this trouble with recall. Food, praise, toy. Seems the only thing that motivates him IS when we get a sharp tone in out mouth.
Advice?
I have never had a problem with my recall.
I think i actually have video of my dog stopping in a close chase of a bird. It was actually in front of a CLIFF that i didnt know was there. The bird was protecting its nest. Again, i didnt know any of this, just called her off it just in time.

Anyways, advice for recall on dogs testing it? Or not interested in motivational stuffs.

 Quote: Brianah Maloney

Well what do you do with a less motivated dog? Or a dog that constantly challenges the recall?

I have a friend with a tough masttif mix that has this trouble with recall. Food, praise, toy. Seems the only thing that motivates him IS when we get a sharp tone in out mouth.
Advice?
I have never had a problem with my recall.
I think i actually have video of my dog stopping in a close chase of a bird. It was actually in front of a CLIFF that i didnt know was there. The bird was protecting its nest. Again, i didnt know any of this, just called her off it just in time.

Anyways, advice for recall on dogs testing it? Or not interested in motivational stuffs.

Any chance the owner might sign up here so we could ask detailed questions and give detailed answers?

We could talk about finding the individual dog's currency, timing, never tainting the recall, etc., but it's hard to know second-hand what this owner's challenge is.

I can say, though, that, Like Brianah and Bob are saying, I don't really run into dogs who don't respond well to the type of recall training they mentioned, tailored to the individual dog, unless it has been tainted already (in which case starting over is often a good thing, maybe with a new word).

It has to be consistent, the timing has to be good, and it takes a lot more work once the owner/trainer makes a mistake like giving in to "chase me" (even once), using a recall that s/he is not sure of when s/he has no backup (like a long line), or correcting a dog after the dog complied with a recall (because the dog was too slow, etc).

Even using the recall for unpleasant stuff (stop playing, come back inside, have a "procedure," etc.) can cause a setback.

Our recall was sharpened up by having one person at home when the other was walking the dog, and at the time that the walk was finished (the 'return') instead of it being 'awww we're done and now we go inside' the person at home stood in the driveway with a bite wedge. (insert tug, ball on a string, etc) We come around that last corner and Duke spotted the person in the driveway with his favorite toy? Sure built some love for the recall that way.