This is not about specifics of training behaviors UNLESS it helps to overcome this issue.

My dog Trooper is a sweet dog (and I am not a professional but want to learn to get profession results).

He goes almost completely INSENSATE, spits our roast beef and all of this other favorite treats even if you put them IN his mouth.

He can't hear or seem to see or smell or taste anything except the NEW SENSATIONS when he goes out in public.

(We have made a lot of progress from the above situation in the past few weeks but let's pretend we are still stuck her or somewhere on the road to good PUBLIC communication....)

How do you deal with such issues?

What works?

What is STUPID?

Help me and others who must face similar issues....

(I am seeing weird webboard issue -- my new posts appear as do responces but the BODY IS INITIALLY BLANK. Never seen that in DECADES of web posting.)


Edited by Connie Sutherland (05/02/2014 09:36 AM)
Edit reason: replaced brackets w/ parens

duplicate post

Edited by Connie Sutherland (05/02/2014 09:36 AM)
Edit reason: delete duplicate

 Quote: Herb Martin

This is not about specifics of training behaviors UNLESS it helps to overcome this issue.

My dog Trooper is a sweet dog (and I am not a professional but want to learn to get profession results).

He goes almost completely INSENSATE, spits our roast beef and all of this other favorite treats even if you put them IN his mouth.

He can't hear or seem to see or smell or taste anything except the NEW SENSATIONS when he goes out in public.

We have made a lot of progress from the above situation in the past few weeks but let's pretend we are still stuck her or somewhere on the road to good PUBLIC communication....

How do you deal with such issues?

What works?

What is STUPID?

Help me and others who must face similar issues....

I am seeing weird webboard issue -- my new posts appear as do responces but the BODY IS INITIALLY BLANK. Never seen that in DECADES of web posting.

The web posting program doesn't like brackets.

When Tanner gets to a new place that utterly fascinates him I just stand still and let him take in the sights and smells for a few moments. Then I can use a string of behaviors he really likes to do that involve interacting with me(touch, high five, shake) to get him back to engage with me. Then we move off and he gets the additional reward of being able to further explore the area.

We recently went out to a horse area and he completely checked out on me for a few minutes. Sensory overload. I could have used a correction to get his focus back but I'd rather he discover that we'll move off as soon as he returns focus to me.

How often does he get to go out? With shy or over stimulated dogs I try to go out daily until going out isn't really a special event anymore.

Also, how strong is his reaction to a marker? Does he understand what it means and you see a definite change in body language when you say it? The marker itself becomes a rewarding event to the dog that they're willing to work for. Sometimes Tanner won't take the treat in public either but he'll still work for the verbal marker.

I feel like I'm kind of stumbling trying to explain that. Hopefully it's clear enough.

With any desensitization (which is what this sounds like), the idea is to physically back the dog up to the threshold where they react.

If this dog is overwhelmed in public, he needs to practice in a place where he is far enough away from whatever the "public" is that makes him react. When he's comfortable with that, then move a little closer---where he can perhaps see or hear "public" but not be in the middle of it. Continue moving just to the edge of his reaction zone, and then just a little farther each time. If at any point the dog is stressed, back up to his comfort zone.

In this way you can gradually introduce the thing(s) that needs desensitization over time.

 Quote: Tracy Collins

With any desensitization (which is what this sounds like), the idea is to physically back the dog up to the threshold where they react.

If this dog is overwhelmed in public, he needs to practice in a place where he is far enough away from whatever the "public" is that makes him react. When he's comfortable with that, then move a little closer---where he can perhaps see or hear "public" but not be in the middle of it. Continue moving just to the edge of his reaction zone, and then just a little farther each time. If at any point the dog is stressed, back up to his comfort zone.

In this way you can gradually introduce the thing(s) that needs desensitization over time.

Yes, exactly.

"If this dog is overwhelmed in public, he needs to practice in a place where he is far enough away from whatever the "public" is that makes him react. When he's comfortable with that, then move a little closer---where he can perhaps see or hear "public" but not be in the middle of it. Continue moving just to the edge of his reaction zone, and then just a little farther each time. If at any point the dog is stressed, back up to his comfort zone. "

I agree with Tracy. I have had similar issues with my dog. I found that, rather than trying to convince her to look at me, accept a treat, or obey a command, I was better off moving away to a comfort zone and desensitizing her to the distractions. IMHO, you are better off not bringing the dog into a trigger zone than you are going there and trying to get his attention or shoving "meaningless" (i.e, for the moment) treats in his mouth.

I'd say your dog is overwhelmed and/or stressed, so I am in agreement with the others. Back up a bit, remove some stimuli and work on the desired behaviors you are looking for in a less stimulating environment.

I've found this to be a fun game for my anxious dog and also for my young dogs.
http://paws4udogs.wordpress.com/2012/11/26/watch-the-world-changing-fear-or-reactivity/

This gradual (systematic) desensitization is one alternative. And the one that has the highest likelihood of success, IMO. "Flooding" is the other--in which you would place the dog in the situation that causes anxiety for as long as it takes for the dog to self-calm. Which could take hours or days. I've never tried this method because it seems antithetical to my idea of myself as my dog's protector (I'm supposed to be protecting dog from things that cause it fear, even if those fears are unfounded.) I offer it only to acknowledge that there are different methods for psychological desensitization.

But what doesn't work--at all--is to do it half way in between these extremes. To put a dog into a stress situation, allow the dog to stress, make a fuss (including offering treats) and then quickly retreating from the stressor are all good ways to make the dog MORE stressed. It is reinforcing to the dog that the cause of the stress was real and founded.

What's important to understand about both of the desensitizing techniques is that they both require the dog to figure it out. You can't DO anything to make your dog less stressed about something. That's an internal thing that only the dog can do. You simply have to set up situations that enable him to figure it out---either by systematic/gradual desensitization, or by flooding.