I have a standard schnauzer with what I perceive as anxiety problems. She will be 2 in may and over all she is a wonderful dog. But whenever there is anything she is interested in and she can not have the opportunity to investigate/play with it she goes bonkers. I am definantly no expert. I have very little experience with dogs in my past, but I read what feels like a library on behavior. I just have alot of issues linking the theory with application. I have tried to use the e-collar to try and extinguish what seems like self reinforcing behaviors and I know that may not be the best way but it has actually made much improvement.

Mostly I was really wanting input from some people who might have experience and advice how I can help solve this issue instead of suppressing it?

What exactly do you mean by goes bonkers? How much exercise does she get? Does she do exercises that require self control like a stay well? Is she obedience trained?

Is there a certain type of object that tends to set her off?

I have some questions too about the triggers for this, and what the behavior is. But here's something to think about: is there anything you can do (or produce) that would be MORE interesting than the forbidden things? Bacon? A tug or squeak toy? Running in the opposite direction?

I'm no expert trainer. But I figured out long ago that you can't MAKE a dog do anything. What you have to do is figure out how to convince the dog that it is in their best interest to do what you've asked them to do (or not do). And every dog has a different currency. Some will comply for food. Some for attention/interaction/praise. Some are best motivated by denying them a desired thing until they comply.

Almost every behavior we ask of dogs is an act (for them) of self-control. We are asking them to suppress what they would otherwise do and CHOOSE to do something that we prefer. But they have to be made to understand why what you want is BETTER than what they want.

Trade a bad behavior for a good one. Do that often enough, with enough clear reinforcement, and the dog will stop offering the bad behavior.

That, and exercise. Especially for young dogs. Tire them out. Sleeping dogs are generally well behaved.

Have you considered the use of marker training? Sounds like there is a lot of focus on corrections, which isn't necessarily a bad thing. However, marker training can be a powerful tool in shaping the dog to more positive behaviors when you run into those situations that normally trigger your dog to go bonkers. Lot's of great information on this website regarding marker training.

Impulse control.

My dog has similar issues. Over the past three years, she has learned that, if I'm not letting her access something, it is time for her to move on. I have to provide a different outlet and redirect her, and she has learned (somewhat) to accept that and move on. Does not work if I don't provide another focal point. If redirecting her does not work, I isolate her from the trigger. At all times I am trying to ignore her reactions, or at least not acknowledge her "anxiety".

Cathy and Tracy make a good point, in that it would help if you recognized the triggers. If you observe closely enough, you'll pbly see slight differences in her reaction to different triggers. Multiple triggers may require different solutions on an independent basis. Example; if the behavior is triggered by strange dogs, some desensitizing may be in order. If she is barking at cats through the window, timeout in the crate may be necessary.

Knowing my dog and judging by your account, your dog may never be able to just ignore triggers. I have to manage my dog constantly.

ETA. The remote trainer may be working, but it is not a solution. If I corrected you every time you reacted to something, you would learn not to let me see the reactions or you would change your behavior as soon as you got corrected. However, I have done absolutely nothing to relieve the anxiety that the trigger caused you.

 Quote: Duane Hull

Impulse control.

My dog has similar issues. Over the past three years, she has learned that, if I'm not letting her access something, it is time for her to move on. I have to provide a different outlet and redirect her, and she has learned (somewhat) to accept that and move on. Does not work if I don't provide another focal point. If redirecting her does not work, I isolate her from the trigger. At all times I am trying to ignore her reactions, or at least not acknowledge her "anxiety".

Tracy makes a good point. If you observe closely enough, you'll pbly see slight differences in her reaction to different triggers. Multiple triggers may require different solutions on an independent basis. Example; if the behavior is triggered by strange dogs, some desensitizing may be in order. If she is barking at cats through the window, timeout in the crate may be necessary.

Knowing my dog and judging by your account, your dog may never be able to just ignore triggers. I have to manage my dog constantly.

What DUANE said

Thanks guys! This has helped a lot and given me back perspective.

When I say bonkers- first she is either excited hesitant or captivated usually barks or small vocalization but then she either esclates or becomes obsessive. I can be a cat dog, strange people, a creek in the floor, a rattle in the vent etc. it becomes very difficult to regain her attention. Sometimes these things don't set her off at all and sometime are worst than others.

She is much more food motivated than play motivated so I'm gonna try to maybe find somthing she can't resist. Maybe fry some real bacon and try to keep it on hand. But a lot of the time, when she does this, she will turn away from food or take it and spit it out so she can get back to whatever it is.

It really sounds like what Duane was talkin about and it could turn into a management thing.

I've met a handful of standard schnauzers that are like that and it ended up being a prey drive with no outlet issue. They were taught how to appropriately access a reward they wanted(treat or tug) and gradually the "OMG a possible prey object! MUST GET TO IT!" decreased to a manageable level. They knew the owner had better and more fun stuff. Most needed their exercise increased as well.

Can't say that's what is going on with your dog. A video would be really helpful but I know those can be hard to arrange if you're by yourself and the problem is periodic.

 Quote: Cathy Goessman

I've met a handful of standard schnauzers that are like that and it ended up being a prey drive with no outlet issue. They were taught how to appropriately access a reward they wanted(treat or tug) and gradually the "OMG a possible prey object! MUST GET TO IT!" decreased to a manageable level. They knew the owner had better and more fun stuff. Most needed their exercise increased as well.

Also what CATHY said

That actually sounds really accurate Cathy. It also sound really similar to what Duane said too. I have thought about tryin to work with her prey drive to try and fix it but she is really uninterested in most toys.

Again. Thanks all. I'm gonna try and work with the issue more now. If I have more issues I will definantly ask the masses again.