Socialisation
#400113 - 12/16/2015 04:20 PM |
Webboard User
Reg: 10-01-2015
Posts: 26
Loc:
Offline |
|
Hello all,
I have a quick question. I imprinted my amstaff wrong when he was a young pup and now his value for other dogs/people is far too high.
He is able to focus on me when i am training him with food around other dogs. However he when he engages with other dogs and people, im literally of lower value to them.
Can this be corrected? Or is it now a matter of manging him as opposed tp resetting values for other things.
D.C |
Top
|
Re: Socialisation
[Re: Dan Carrubba ]
#400115 - 12/16/2015 10:54 PM |
Moderator
Reg: 06-14-2002
Posts: 7417
Loc: St. Louis Mo
Offline |
|
It sound like nothing more then other dogs and people are to much of a distraction at this point.
Also his engagement with other dogs and people is up to you to control.
Limit it as much as you can. That way you become the important part of his life.
Is he on lead when he engages these dogs and people?
Outside of my family's dogs I don't allow any interaction with other dogs.
Even with the family's dogs I limit their.
No reason why you can't control that.
old dogs LOVE to learn new tricks |
Top
|
Re: Socialisation
[Re: Dan Carrubba ]
#400116 - 12/16/2015 11:38 PM |
Moderator
Reg: 07-13-2005
Posts: 31571
Loc: North-Central coast of California
Offline |
|
I agree with Bob.
Also, even if you particularly wanted the dog to be able to focus on you even when other dogs and people are around, for me that is not a matter of tossing him into that mix willy nilly. As Bob said, it sounds like they are too much distraction for him at this point. Remove them or remove you and the dog to a distance where the dog can focus on you and your commands, your play, etc. Keep the sessions upbeat and rewarding. Don't move closer to that major distraction until he is able to be closer without failing in his attention on you.
That is, if he's still unable to focus on you and your interaction, you are too close to the distraction(s)..
Other dogs are major distractions to many (or most) dogs. Desensitizing is the way to go, IMHO.
|
Top
|
Re: Socialisation
[Re: Dan Carrubba ]
#400117 - 12/16/2015 11:46 PM |
Webboard User
Reg: 10-01-2015
Posts: 26
Loc:
Offline |
|
There is hope!
Thanks for your advice.
D.C |
Top
|
Re: Socialisation
[Re: Dan Carrubba ]
#400118 - 12/17/2015 05:01 AM |
Webboard User
Reg: 01-23-2015
Posts: 1619
Loc: Brazil, Bahia
Offline |
|
I too agree fully with Bob and Connie. When my dogs were puppies I understood zero about dogs and I also had a completely wrong mindset about socialisation.
Meanwhile I've learned to keep them away from other dogs - was difficult, as we have lots of strays here. Usually I had an escort of 5-7 dogs following us. Fortunately I never gave them treats, but I allowed my dogs to contact them and play with them. I also allowed people to pet them. That's how I understood socialiation.
I had to start with avoiding such places with many dogs, which is mostly impossible here. Then I had to learn, what the threshold is for each indivual dog of mine. When I realized that I was going to overstep the threshold I had to make a turnabout, and so step by step I achieved that they ignore other dogs and people in most cases. There are definitally exceptions though and I have always to take care and observe where my dogs focus.
“If you can keep your head when all around you are losing theirs, then you are a leader” – Rudyard Kipling |
Top
|
Re: Socialisation
[Re: Dan Carrubba ]
#400119 - 12/17/2015 08:36 AM |
Webboard User
Reg: 11-30-2009
Posts: 3724
Loc: minnesota
Offline |
|
I think the socialization that you did is great-- it will give the dog the basic idea that people are pals, not to be feared etc.
It's just that now, he's matured -- and the rules change. Just like a two year old child is "allowed" to climb into the laps of visitors, but a 10 yr old is expected to sit quietly and not bother guests.
Just change the rules to "no pet by others" , "no interaction with others unless I say". And no barking at, pulling toward, interaction sought by the dog. YOU say. It makes you more of a leader, and it makes the dog feel more secure. Some of that reaction to strangers is driven by nervousness about what he's supposed to do. Let him know he's to do nothing, he'll learn to like it.
|
Top
|
Re: Socialisation
[Re: Dan Carrubba ]
#400120 - 12/17/2015 11:20 AM |
Webboard User
Reg: 01-23-2015
Posts: 1619
Loc: Brazil, Bahia
Offline |
|
Thanks Betty, that's exactly the way I'm following now - or at least trying. I don't always have success, but then I need to think it all over afterwards what I should have done better.
The direction and the goal I know in between, but situations change sometimes rapidly, so it's not always so easy. Some of the reactions of other people are coming from the mentality here. Or they are awfully afraid of bigger dogs, esp. Pits, or they lack any prudence. Jusst because I'm friendly (normally), they think the dogs also are friendly. They are friendly to people, but rapid movements or some other reaction could easily lead to misunderstandings between human and dog. It never happened something like this until now, but when it happens, it can be so quickly. I prefer to avoid such situations while I can, not when the dog is already in full fear or rage.
Thanks for supporting words.
“If you can keep your head when all around you are losing theirs, then you are a leader” – Rudyard Kipling |
Top
|
Re: Socialisation
[Re: Connie Sutherland ]
#400124 - 12/17/2015 03:13 PM |
Webboard User
Reg: 03-28-2013
Posts: 1571
Loc:
Offline |
|
I agree with Bob.
Also, even if you particularly wanted the dog to be able to focus on you even when other dogs and people are around, for me that is not a matter of tossing him into that mix willy nilly. As Bob said, it sounds like they are too much distraction for him at this point. Remove them or remove you and the dog to a distance where the dog can focus on you and your commands, your play, etc. Keep the sessions upbeat and rewarding. Don't move closer to that major distraction until he is able to be closer without failing in his attention on you.
That is, if he's still unable to focus on you and your interaction, you are too close to the distraction(s)..
Other dogs are major distractions to many (or most) dogs. Desensitizing is the way to go, IMHO.
Bob & Connie are THE BOMB
Not a matter of "wrong imprinting" that is now "impossible to fix" -- Hooray !!!
Of course you want a bully breed (or ANY breed of Pet dog) to have friendly intentions toward other DOGS (and people) so do NOT beat yourself up over the past...
Your dog's excited desire to Engage with Them while "ignoring you" is more a matter of his distraction level overwhelming his youthful inability to "put his priorities in order"...
IMHO, it is Never too Late to teach him Engagement with You & Focusing on You -- The bully breeds are such great dogs, So Trainable, very QUICK studies ... You will do well with him !!!
|
Top
|
Re: Socialisation
[Re: Betty Landercasp ]
#400125 - 12/17/2015 03:23 PM |
Webboard User
Reg: 03-28-2013
Posts: 1571
Loc:
Offline |
|
I think the socialization that you did is great-- it will give the dog the basic idea that people are pals, not to be feared etc.
It's just that now, he's matured -- and the rules change. Just like a two year old child is "allowed" to climb into the laps of visitors, but a 10 yr old is expected to sit quietly and not bother guests.
Just change the rules to "no pet by others" , "no interaction with others unless I say". And no barking at, pulling toward, interaction sought by the dog. YOU say. It makes you more of a leader, and it makes the dog feel more secure. Some of that reaction to strangers is driven by nervousness about what he's supposed to do. Let him know he's to do nothing, he'll learn to like it.
And Betty is also the BOMB
|
Top
|
Re: Socialisation
[Re: Christina Stockinger ]
#400126 - 12/17/2015 03:26 PM |
Webboard User
Reg: 03-28-2013
Posts: 1571
Loc:
Offline |
|
Thanks Betty, that's exactly the way I'm following now - or at least trying. I don't always have success, but then I need to think it all over afterwards what I should have done better.
The direction and the goal I know in between, but situations change sometimes rapidly, so it's not always so easy. Some of the reactions of other people are coming from the mentality here. Or they are awfully afraid of bigger dogs, esp. Pits, or they lack any prudence. Jusst because I'm friendly (normally), they think the dogs also are friendly. They are friendly to people, but rapid movements or some other reaction could easily lead to misunderstandings between human and dog. It never happened something like this until now, but when it happens, it can be so quickly. I prefer to avoid such situations while I can, not when the dog is already in full fear or rage.
Thanks for supporting words.
AND our Wonderful Christina is one of the BEST PUPILS that I have ever seen on the Leerburg Boards !!!
|
Top
|
When purchasing any product from Leerburg Enterprises, Inc. it is understood
that any and all products sold by Leerburg Enterprises, Inc. are sold in Dunn
County Wisconsin, USA. Any and all legal action taken against Leerburg Enterprises,
Inc. concerning the purchase or use of these products must take place in Dunn
County, Wisconsin. If customers do not agree with this policy they should not
purchase Leerburg Ent. Inc. products.
Dog Training is never without risk of injury. Do not use any of the products
sold by Leerburg Enterprises, Inc. without consulting a local professional.
The training methods shown in the Leerburg Ent. Inc. DVD’s are meant
to be used with a local instructor or trainer. Leerburg Enterprises, Inc. cannot
be held responsible for accidents or injuries to humans and/or animals.
Copyright 2010 Leerburg® Enterprises, Inc. All rights reserved. All photos and content on leerburg.com are part of a registered copyright owned by Leerburg Enterprise, Inc.
By accessing any information within Leerburg.com, you agree to abide by the
Leerburg.com Privacy Policy and Terms of Use.