In using the ball or tug on the short rope to teach attention,I've been reading your posts that say hold untill the dog looks you in the eyes and then release. Then gradually insist on the stare becoming longer before you allow the dog to have the toy!
I have Bernhards tape and I swear it looks as if he has the dog concentrating on the ball not his (Bernhards) eyes.
Which is it and cane one of you explain it to me.
I tried starting mine that way, but he was way to focused on the tug or ball. I ended up spitting hot dogs, I know silly, but it worked. I can now put the toy under my arm, chin, eye level to the dog and when I tell him, he will watch me regardless of the toy.
Angela
I use the hot dog also. What I,m trying to get focas for right now is the down under distraction. She is good for a while then she starts looking around and ,I believe, forgets what she is there for and gets up.
Flinks IS teaching you how to get the dog to stare at the ball. That is his personal preference. Rather than giving attention to YOU, the dog gives attention to his toy. But eventually that toy goes out of sight and then you have to either redirect his attention to you or trick him into staring at your chest (where you supposedly have hidden the ball). Always seemed much more direct and useful to simply teach them from the beginning to give attention to ME in order to EARN the ball.
Ed Frawley Administrator Reg: 07-11-2001
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You guys miss the fact that the dog does look at the ball - but when you take the training to the next step - where the ball is hidden - they learn to look inot your eyes because they learn that the eyes tell when the toy comes out.
This is the same as a all prey dog dog learning to look into the face of the helper who wears a sleeve on both arms - the dog learns to look into the face of the helper because the eyes tell when the action comes
I guess I missed the next step too. And I watched the video several times. I think teaching the dog to focus on my eyes, from the beginning, to get the reinforcement eliminates the need for additonal steps. And it doesn't matter if the helper has one sleeve, two sleeves, or no sleeve, the dog should be actively on the helper and not the equipement. The dog should react to the movement( escape or attack) not the eyes. The eyes are a focal point away from the fixation of the equipment, which hopefully creates aggression (fight), as in the animal world.
Everybody has a points........
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