Comments/comparison on the Skip Drive vs. the Running Drive.

I have my opinions / thoughts... would like to hear yours! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Ok, I'll bite - what the heck is Skip Drive??

You know what it is. When the helper catches the dog and drives it. The dog in the pocket and the helper can go into a skip drive or a running drive.I like doing the skip drive instead of the running drive, I think they are both good drives. I found the skip drive was easier to learn and have just kept doing it.I dont think the running drive test the dog any better than a skip drive.

Ok, duh... I'm sitting here thinking.. prey drive, defense drive, skip drive??? <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> Obviously I need another cup of coffee!

Now that I have my head on straight... I think the running drive can make a dog feel more insecure if the helper is able to bring the dog up high and move quickly; the dog feels powerless for that momemt. But my beef with it is the helpers who lack the upper body/arm strength to raise the sleeve high AND keep it level. Most guys can't do it, so they end up cranking their elbow high up in the air while allowing their fist to lag down low. It causes even super nice dogs to have a shallower grip on the high side. Those guys should just do a skip drive and keep the sleeve lower, applying pressure by leaning over and enveloping the dog rather than by generating speed. Just my two cents.

I was taught the skip drive years ago...didn't see a running drive for the first time until I watched a DVG helper working dogs. Personally, I think the skip drive is much more of a threat on the dog and tests the defense more. The helper is lower and over the dog which is in the pocket, and presents a more "real" threat to the dog. The stick hits come from over the dog, and not from the side which happens frequently with the higher position of the running drive. The skip drive also allows the dog to have it's front feet on the ground so it can fight the helper more effectively during the drive. The running drive lifts the dog and removes the ability to fight nearly as hard and if the dog does fight, it usually thrashes which can change the grip. Also, many, if not most helpers who use the running drive do not maintain the sleeve position and torque the sleeve upward which many times causes even hard grips to slip somewhat. The running drive also elicits the dog to just "hang on for the ride" since it has no leverage to fight the helper.

Just my opinion <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Jeff Lawless

I agree with Jeff on this, I think once someone sees both ways of driving a dog it is more clear.

And Lee, I had to smile at your comment on "skip drive" lol My 9 year old has had skipping in phys ed class recently and his 'skip drive' is pretty pronounced lately! No more walking from place to place for him!! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Well.....skip drive was *much* more popular with the "sensitive" helpers from San Francisco. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

 Quote:

Originally posted by Jeff Lawless:
I was taught the skip drive years ago...didn't see a running drive for the first time until I watched a DVG helper working dogs. Personally, I think the skip drive is much more of a threat on the dog and tests the defense more. The helper is lower and over the dog which is in the pocket, and presents a more "real" threat to the dog. The stick hits come from over the dog, and not from the side which happens frequently with the higher position of the running drive. The skip drive also allows the dog to have it's front feet on the ground so it can fight the helper more effectively during the drive. The running drive lifts the dog and removes the ability to fight nearly as hard and if the dog does fight, it usually thrashes which can change the grip. Also, many, if not most helpers who use the running drive do not maintain the sleeve position and torque the sleeve upward which many times causes even hard grips to slip somewhat. The running drive also elicits the dog to just "hang on for the ride" since it has no leverage to fight the helper.

Just my opinion <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Jeff Lawless

Agreed! Thanks for saving me the time posting my opinion LOL

What he said! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

It also depends on the dog you are working. When working rottweilers it's pretty tough to do much with a running drive. I much prefer a skip drive when working bigger dogs. It give you much more power in the drive and IMHO give you better opportunity for good, clean stick hits and more stability in the footwork. If you have to put alot of speed in the drive, a running drive can be very useful. I also like the way the dog goes to sleep in the grips when performing a smooth running drive.

IMO, the skip drive presents much more of a threat that a running drive.

I think the best approach is to learn both. Find what works best for you in different situations and make it happen.

Catch the dog high and work the dog high unless you are doing leg work.... If you lower the dog on all fours you will get a dirty biter...sport people deffinatly don't want that. Keeping the dog high will also encourage deep full mouth bites. As far as putting defense on the dog...you can do that just fine with the dog on his hinds.