I have a MWD that will bark and growl at the decoy, but as soon as the decoy slides on the wrap the MWD will stop barking and just lunge for the wrap. This same MWD when working on aggression in an open field will not pull on the leash like he does when the decoy runs into the woods.The MWD also has a better bite which is alot harder and more head thrashing when he has to chase the decoy into the woods. Can I get some suggestions on how to pull out his prey drive.

Hey Brian,

Welcome to the board.

Let me add a little more information to the post. This is the same K-9 that I asked about barking in a previous post. Like Brian said, he barks well when I come at him with no sleeve. He has good defense, a good thing. Brian is wanting the dog to bark when the sleeve is present so that he can be rewarded with a bite. But as soon as I put on the sleeve, he stops barking and just lunges. He will bite the sleeve, he just doesn't bite with intensity. We did a scouting exercise this weekend where I aggitated the dog (no sleeve) and took off running into the woods. The sleeve was hidden back in the wooded area where I ran to. Once the dog found me and was given the command to bite, I noticed a big difference in his bite. He was pretty worked up and his bite was hard. With all that said, is the exercise bringing out prey drive in ways that the decoy and sleeve doesn't? Brian wants his MWD to bark with the sleeve present. What can we do to bring the bark out with the sleeve? Should we add frustration with no bites? More scouting exercises? Any advice would be helpful.

Curtis

Brian,

Sounds like the dog has plenty of prey drive already. Thats why he isnt barking at the decoy with equipment. Many dogs lock into prey when the sleeve comes out. Few dogs bark aggressively when locked in prey.

To want the dog barking all the time is not always desireable. If he is doing a good job, leave him as is. You may never get him to bark when in prey so its not worth banging your head against the wall for. My dog is the same way. He does a good job and thats all I need.

Howard <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

I don't mind him not barking as much as I mind that he doesn't want to attack the decoy with the same desire as when doing scouting, in an open area he shows no want. He doesn't grab into the dirt with his paws and constanly pull.

How much does your training vary in open areas? Does he get as excited on a building search, or is it just after scouting? Does he get a bite every time in the open?

Will the dog bark on command? If not, teach him a bark command (separate from bitework) and use it in the open field.
My female Mal did the same 'snake' biting - no barking, just striking when the hepler go close enough - when beginning the Hold & Bark. By teaching a bark command and not giving the bite until he barks, he'll learn to bark for the reward (the bite). I worked the bark command for 2-3 days and by the next protection training, she was starting to bark at the helper.

You may also want to check out Ed's video on the Hold & Bark for Police Service Dogs. I've never seen it, but it could give you some other ideas to consider.

As for him not digging and pulling for the Helper in the open field. Is he controlling/containing himself or is he just not into it as much? Do you know any of the history of the dog? Previous training, etc...? Seeing this only on the open field, could imply that this is coming from some heavy handed control work was put on him on the sport field (SchH, Ring). I could be wrong (I hope I am), but its a possibility.

In open area if he doesn't bark or seem aggressive, I don't let him go. We try to make him mad and want to bite and as soon as I let him go, he is like whatever, but still follows through. He is excited when doing building search, but not like at scouting. He does not get a bite everytime. If he doesn't appear he wants to really bite, by not pulling or wanting to break then he gets put up without the bite.

From the way you describe I think your dog need more work in defense with the decoy in equipment, not prey work.

Correct. Try working him civil. Have a good helper use the whip or other equipment and make contact with the dog. Get him fired up and bring out a little more defense. When he is good and hot, give him the bite. Work him in defense on the bite as well. Make sure your helper can read the dog so that he backs off if the dog starts shutting down. You can also do some muzzle work with him while he is tied back. Get the dog hot and then flip off the muzzle for the bite. So far it sounds like he isnt challenged enough so you are getting a ho-hum reaction from him.

Howard

Should this civil work be done in the kennel area where he is familiar with or should it be done out in a new area? Does this make a difference on how the dog reacts to the work?

Curtis