You should not be choking the dog with a prong collar. A quick pop (severity depending on the offense) or two maybe should be what is happening.

You need to read the dog, he will display signs that he is going to do something stupid. At the first sign, he gets corrected and then redirect to get his attention back on you. Like have him sit, heel in a circle, look at you or whatever. The point of this is to not let the dog escalate into something you cannot control.
I do not correct my dogs and leave it at that, I correct and then do have the dog do something that is acceptable behavior.
Walking them together right now is not a good idea because he is redirecting onto your other dog and that is going to end up being a serious dogfight one of these times. Your other dog will only put up with it for so long and then he will more than likely fight back.

It may take some time, but to be able to walk and control both dogs down the road is going to be worth the effort.

sorry, maybe i wasn't clear, I meant "choke up" on the leash, as in make it shorter. Not choke the dog-

Carolyn, How about getting two traffic leads? They are short sturdy leashes. Leerburg sells them and of course, theirs are of superior quality!

I walk with the loop around my wrist, then I hold the leash so that it is loose when we are walking but it is short enough where I can give a pop when and if I need to.

I second the traffic lead suggestion. I still use them on my males and we have been walking together for over a year. I am much more able to control the situation and give a correction if needed. I only use the 6' leashes when we are completely by ourselves with no distractions. My goal is to eventually walk them on their long leashes ANYwhere, but we still have some work to do.

The traffic leads do limit your ability to let your dogs stop and sniff around, but I don't think you are ready for that yet. IMO, you need to work on formal walking to make sure you have everyone under control before you can relax enough to let them meander on their own (at least to the end of a 6' leash).

I think it would be very helpful to you if you had the shorter leashes (you can still loop the handle over the top of your wrist if you want to) and kept them close to you while walking from Point A to Point B. Once this is established as routine and without incident, you can then ease up and introduce a longer leash.

JMO.

While I agree with the traffic leads, the dogs must be under control at all times before walking them both together IMHO.
It was stated that the dominant dog redirected and pinned the other dog while they were out walking and there was another dog nearby.

It is challenging enough to "read" one dog while out walking and looking for behavior, let alone two. Especially when there are dominance or dog aggression issues.

This is not good leadership on a handlers part. The dog got away with a dominant display and with dogs, if you give them and inch they may try to take a mile.....

Just my .02 cents

What she said.

Carolyn you posted before and in that thread I suggested you walk the dogs separately. I see this post now and feel even stronger about walking them separately. Until your skills and their obedience is improved, I think you're going to have more problems then you can handle at this time.

Why do you have to walk them together? It sounds like mayhem, especially when another dog comes along (which by the way, sounds like it happens quite often).

Let's assume you walk them separately, and in this hypothetical you have Jake. Whether Jake becomes aggressive or the other dog does, all your attention can be on Jake. You'll make less mistakes and you'll be able to zero in on what triggers Jake, reading his body language, corrections will be more accurate and fair, you'll have better control of the leash, you'll have the use of two hands if needed, you be able to pay attention too to make sure the other person's dog is under control, etc. And remember, timing is everything.

So, control, timing, corrections, leadership, fairness, and let's not forget enjoyment and bonding - all vitally important and walking them together, at this point in time, compromises every single one of those issues.

Thanks for all of the advice--

Judy: I don't have to walk them together, but I don't have the time to walk them separately for more than 10-15 min. each if I do so.

I hate to give up on something-- I took most of your suggestions and went on two more walks last Friday and Saturday evening. I shortened their leashes to keep them closer, put one on either side of me, got into power walking mode, and paid extra attention to Dixon & Jake and where their attention was focused. I noticed that when I talked to them their ears were rotated around listening to me. If we saw another dog and I noticed their head & ears focus that direction (which we did several times) I called their names, and if they didn't refocus on me gave them a gentle correction directing their attention back to me, and kept moving, as if to say "we don't have time for that, lets go". It worked-- we even passed some of the same dogs that caused us problems a few days before, and aside from their head & ears flicking that way a few times, no problems.

So-- in retrospect, it looks like I was the issue, not necessarily the dogs. We'll obviously keep working on all of this, I realize there are no quick fixes. Thanks again for all of the help!