Once again David why use a blowtorch to light a fire without trying matches? There plenty of ways to stop puppies from nipping with out getting physical, I'd certainly exhaust all those options first.

 Quote: david eagle

 Quote: kori bigge

Benjamin-I agree with the "refuse" attention, in theory, but he nips hard - hard enough to be pretty painful

I'd read Ed's "Theory of Corrections" Article. He says this about nipping:

"Grabbing a pup firmly by the scruff of both cheeks and firmly holding them as we stare into their eyes and firmly warn them to 'KNOCK IT OFF'."

The rest of the article has good info. Find it here: http://www.leerburg.com/pdf/theoryofcorrections.pdf

Kori,

I agree with the above info, however, if you are going to be "busy" doing something else and need to focus on that, there is no reason for Kodee not to be crated.

He is young yet and it will be a while before he is going to be ready for "time out of the crate" that you are talking about.

Nagging "stop", "quit", "no"....."oh all right just 5 minutes" are getting him what he wants. It needs to be all or nothing with him at this point.

Giving in even one time, reinforces the behavior and it only snowballs from there.

You can try tethering him to you, and then stepping on the lead so that when he jumps at you, he corrects himself. I use that once in a while, but with pups I try to just redirect first.

With that said, having a Maligator pup jumping and nipping and wanting attention (even after hard play or exercise) that is just not getting it any other way, is when I implement Ed's advice.

Also, I schedule time out of my day exclusively for the pups and their needs regarding play time. It is not necessarily the same time every day, but I get it done because the benefits to the pup getting that time with me are immense.

 Quote: benjamin colbert

Once again David why use a blowtorch to light a fire without trying matches? There plenty of ways to stop puppies from nipping with out getting physical, I'd certainly exhaust all those options first.

I would hardly call scruffing and a firm tone a blowtorch. It is very similar to what a bitch would do with her puppies and doesn't hurt them and gets your point across without a bunch of nagging little corrections. Remember that we are discussing persistent, rude DOGS, not human adults that already have manners and can be reasoned with. Personally, I would rather give a few fair, concise corrections than deal with a bratty dog for months.
And why don't you list "all those options" that you have in mind? Are you using these methods on any big, high drive puppies and dogs?

 Quote: debbie bruce

And why don't you list "all those options" that you have in mind?

He would throw a can of pennies at him! Sorry Ben, I just couldn't resist!

She has tried matches (see her post saying that she has tried everything she can think of but he persists)

I know its always better to use positive re-enforcement when training. But I do also believe sometimes a physical correction is the only thing that will get through to some dogs.

I already wrote what I would try first. You can use the shake can like someone suggested or perhaps tethering the dog like Carol said. Give the dog very little lead and start teaching the command settle. Wait until the dog lays down on his own and reward. Do this and eventually add a cue "settle". Give the dog a kong with peanut butter to keep him busy and focused elsewhere. If you are around the house 24-7 then it wouldn't be a bad idea to crate the pup. If we are making comparisons to wolves and wild dogs, remember that wolf pups tend to play the entire time they're not sleeping or eating.

Many dogs respond to a scruff shake by not biting or backing up and reassessing but many also escalate the biting in response, perhaps they think you are finally playing their game with them.

And guys just because I work with pet dogs doesn't mean I don't work with pet dogs with extreme persistence and high drives.

 Quote: Benjamin Colbert

Many dogs respond to a scruff shake by not biting or backing up and reassessing but many also escalate the biting in response, perhaps they think you are finally playing their game with them.

This was the case w/ my pup. Any 'hands on' correction (scruff or cheek grabbing) escalated her biting. Worked much better for me to tether her to me...

Lynne - exactly the problem w/Kodee. I have tried the "grab by the cheeks and stare down", but it escalates his excitement (he has high drive for prey and food both, (he would love it if I'd play rough w/him, which I don't). Forgot to mention that....sorry