Quote: Debbie High

try saying his name and the instant he looks at you, give a verbal cue(yes, good boy, whatever you prefer) wait 1-2 seconds and give a food reward.

I did give this method a shot, but he doesn't look at me. I even tried getting rid of the verbal cue and litterally put the treat in his mouth, but he didn't give a crap about it... his mind was elsewhere. Correction is the only way I have to bring him back on earth. The only way I can have his attention is to get it before he sees the animal, and make sure to keep it so he doesn't see it at all. I want him to know the animal is here, and choose to mind me.

 Quote: Debbie High

Since he does pull on the leash I would use a prong collar, just don't use it for corrections...he will self-correct if he gets to over the top, if this happens just ignore it and move on....

Again this isn't a GSD. My dog weights 20pound. He can't correct himself via pulling. I'm positive the collar is properly fit. Although it's a bit looser than I would like, adding one more link would make it too tight (prongs would slightly pinch his skin just by putting the collar on). I would need about a 1/2 link to slightly tighten it up, but I don't think it would make him self-correct by pulling.

 Quote: randy allen

I Respectfully disagree with this off the cuff forced discipline routine being touted for this dog and owner.

Reveiwing the his past thread from not more than perhaps a week and a half ago will explain why.

If my dog isn't learning, I'm doing something wrong.
Randy

I agree with you, and I think Angela's approach of slow desensitization is worth a try. I would also do some very short, positive obedience sessions in an area with no distractions, and really work on his focus.

Before you can get his attention under distraction, he needs to be able to focus on you with no distractions. Francis, have you taught 'Watch Me' yet?

 Quote: francis daigle

... I did give this method a shot, but he doesn't look at me. I even tried getting rid of the verbal cue and litterally put the treat in his mouth, but ... his mind was elsewhere.... Correction is the only way I have to bring him back on earth. The only way I can have his attention is to get it before he sees the animal, and make sure to keep it so he doesn't see it at all. I want him to know the animal is here, and choose to mind me ... My dog weights 20pound. He can't correct himself via pulling. ....

There are maybe three misconceptions to go over here, but with just a minute right now maybe I can start with the "look" command, and a little foundation work ... well before taking the show on the road.

This isn't something that you start doing with a dog already fixated on another animal.

To start this, you can: At home, with zero distractions, when the dog accidentally makes eye contact, maybe because you are standing or sitting doing nothing at all and he wants to know WTH is going on, you mark and reward that eye contact.

Distractions are added to this game only slowly and gradually. Other dogs close by would be a very high-level distraction..... much later.

Wanting him to see the animal and choose you, and self-correcting -- more to talk about.

Edit to add: Aha! Lynne beat me.

 Quote: alyssa myracle

As I posted above, I don't understand why there is such an emphasis on making this dog "like" being around other dogs. Just keep him away for awhile. I also advocated (granted, my quotations sucked and made the post a bear to read), putting the dog into a crate when he was going berzerk and letting him, rather than keep correcting the dog.

I think the poor dog has had a combination of too much correction and control, coupled with ineffective corrections.
As I posted above, it's time to find another trainer, who isn't crap, and give the dog some time to recover.

We do crate the dog when he goes berzerk in the house, and let him out only when he settles down. But if the trigger is still there when he gets out, it will start over again.

The issue is that I need to take him out because JRTs need tons of exercising. If I keep him tethered/crated all day long, he will have even more frustration to vent off, and cause even more problems. Exercise him outdoor and encounter distractions, or avoid distractions and only rely on indoor training, which I believe to be insufficient to occupy his mind according to various JRT owners and my own experience. This vicious cycle is quite a challenge to break.

 Quote: Lynne Barrows

Before you can get his attention under distraction, he needs to be able to focus on you with no distractions. Francis, have you taught 'Watch Me' yet?

Yes. It's relatively consistent... as long as I have something he wants, and there are no distractions.

I could have him heel me all day long in the house without being tethered to me. He's simply VERY reactive to distractions.

 Quote: Francis Daigle

 Quote: Lynne Barrows

Francis, have you taught 'Watch Me' yet?

Yes. It's relatively consistent... as long as I have something he wants, and there are no distractions.

That's great! Now, take baby steps! If he will focus on you (and I mean, look into your eyes) inside, move him onto the balcony at a quiet time of the day. Do some very short obedience sessions there with treats that he really likes. Aim for short periods of focus at first, and gradually increase.

Then progress to a time of day where it's likely that you will have more distraction. etc, etc...

As far as the walks go for now, just keep moving past the distractions. Heck, if it were me, I think I might engage the dog and run past the distractions! The distractions that you are describing are too intense for your dog; I can't see where correcting him in that situation will accomplish anything except damaging that bond that you are working on...

 Quote: lynne barrows

 Quote: francis daigle

 Quote: lynne barrows

Francis, have you taught 'Watch Me' yet?

Yes. It's relatively consistent... as long as I have something he wants, and there are no distractions.

Heck, if it were me, I think I might engage the dog and run past the distractions!

Hence biking.

After our incident, I've dared to take him on bike runs again, and he never repeated the behavior, and we've met several dogs, and even a cat.

The incident was mostly my fault because I used a choker collar for biking. He now has the prong on rides, but he seems kind of respects the front of the bike after what happened.

The highest reaction he's had so far when biking since the accident is eyeballing. And most of the time a simple "no" does the trick and he resumes looking in front of him. If he looks back I'll give a small pop. The leash isn't tied to the bike, I still have it in my left hand.

Another thing I should mention is he's much less stressed about his environment when we walk him with our baby. We teached him to stay behind the stroller and he seems to put most of his attention on doing so. While he's still not focusing on me (althou he's much more compliant since he's not nearly as nervous), in my book it's better than trying to chase stuff around.

Edit:

 Quote: lynne barrows

Then progress to a time of day where it's likely that you will have more distraction. etc, etc...

He also actually does pretty good in my backyard too. Maybe he just needs more practice. It's hard to only slightly increase distraction at this point.

I think you are making good progress...and biking must be a great way to burn off some of his boundless energy!
Interesting about walking behind the stroller...
(and I agree, it is hard to slightly increase distractions, especially if you are not setting them up ahead of time; ie with a helper to provide them for you)

The spastic chaos of the dog when meeting another dog is not always going to be an indication of boundless energy, because it is also an instinctual response.I know that JRT have a lot of energy, but this is really more about establishing structure for the dog, and creating a proper learning environment for him. Yes, you have to exercise him as part of this. BUT, I would not be exercising him AT ALL when there are other animals around. Not yet. He is NOT ready for that. When exercising, go early in the am before other dogs are out, or late at night. Do not stop to chat with people on the way, this is for the dog not the human. Stopping to talk distracts you and will limit your ability to pay attention to what your dog is doing until he is already doing something he shouldn't.
As for training, keep it separate at this point. I'm glad you have made progress thus far, keep it up!
I would still keep the dog tethered, no matter what, or in the crate. He will burn off energy just fine on his walks, and you will teach him to channel his excess into that outlet as well.
Can you play with him outside without any distractions? If so, I'd play a vigorous game or two. Frisbee, fetch, something that helps him burn off excess.
Don't worry about interactions with other animals until you SEE the change in the dog. As in, during walks, the dog is focused on you and nothing else. You stop, the dog stops WITH you, not because you tipped him off by verballing saying something, or tugged on the leash, or because he hit the end of the leash. Same goes for changing directions, etc.
Also be working on getting the dog to focus on you. Start short, build up to long. Practice (AT HOME not on walks yet) heeling with the dog watching you.
Teach the dog to "leave it", then build it up to incorporate ANYTHING you want them to leave alone.
When you have the ability to focus on command, the ability to do a command (sit, down) no matter WHAT the distraction, the ability to leave something alone no matter what, you are probably as ready as you will ever be to start introducing other dogs at a distance, then build up to walking past or having them walk past you. The first hint of a whine or bark, or pull on the leash, you have gone too far, too soon. The idea is to set it up to REWARD the dog, not punish him because he lost control of himself.
And don't worry about the dog needing to "socialize" with other dogs. A better word would be "expose" because it doesn't include "interaction"
Socializing implies that the dogs have to meet for it to be a success, and that is simply not true. I'd be MORE impressed when two dogs are able to walk past each other without so much as looking at one another because they are more focused on what is really important to them: their handler.

 Quote: cameron feathers

Yes, you have to exercise him as part of this. BUT, I would not be exercising him AT ALL when there are other animals around. Not yet. He is NOT ready for that.

Yes. This goes back to foundation work, at home, no distractions, and then only very gradually adding distractions.

And the first time of exposure to another dog at a distance would probably be with this dog pretty tired from a good ol' game of fetch in the yard. Still, this would be after a whole lot of lower-level distractions.

 Quote: cameron feathers

And don't worry about the dog needing to "socialize" with other dogs. A better word would be "expose" because it doesn't include "interaction"

For me, too, my goal is for my dog to march right on by the other dog, paying much more attention to me.

These sessions at home may not seem like tiring activities to you, but they are to that lil doggy brain. Tiring and rewarding in a good way, as he is rewarded for wanted behavior and as he learns how great it works out for him to watch you.