I think puppies need early socialization--which to me means exposure to a variety of sounds, walking surfaces, people and other animals.

So taking a pup out for a walk seems appropriate to me. But so would be going in the car to the bank, banging pots and pans in the kitchen, driving to the local soccer game and watching from the sidelines, or wading in a creek---all "socializing." It's not just about making doggy friends (which I don't think is all that important, really.)

The key is in controlling the situation and making each of these "socialization" experiences positive (and if he's lunging and barking it's not positive for you or him.)

So don't push him quite so hard all at once. If you know he has an issue with strange dogs, then find a socializing spot where he can observe them from a safe distance. Once you are confident that he has mastered being calm from a distance, then move a little closer. If at any point you get the wrong reaction, you've gone too far too fast. Just back up to the comfort zone and try again.

You want to set him up in situations that you know he will succeed at....and then push just a teeny bit farther. Rather than forcing him to cope with a situation that he's not yet ready to handle nicely.

Hope that helps.

Ed advocated (and I agree wholeheartedly) not "socializing" puppies with other dogs. I creates a pup who is "doggie".

He also doesn't allow anyone to pet his pups.

You are setting your pup up to fail, whether or not you realize it. You're setting yourself, as a handler, up for failure too.

The best case scenario is that the dog remains exactly as he was going to be without all this socializing. It won't make the dog "better" at this age, to do all this socializing. The critical training comes in with an older dog.

Worst case scenario... well, there are several.

You may end up with a doggie dog, that has little to no interest in pleasing you as his handler. This translates into a dog that is unmotivated, and even stubborn in training.

Your dog may be bitten by another dog, causing it to be dog aggressive for the remainder of his life. Not to mention, he'll lose all faith in your ability to protect him.

Ideally, you are trying to teach him to ignore, or remain neutral towards other people and dogs. Not see them as a source of fun and treats, to go running towards with reckless abandon.

Everything I have read states the first few months are the most important to socialize a pet...that's why I have been trying so hard. In eds video he actually hands some girls passing up a treat to give his young puppy...

Socializing is good. The problem lies within your definition of socializing.

In reality, it shouldn't be called socializing at all. It should be called neutralizing.
You're teaching your dog to react calmly to new surroundings, and remain neutral when presented with new people and/or other dogs.

I haven't seen the video (8 weeks to 8 months), but my understanding is that the feeding of treats to his dog was to demonstrate how to help FEARFUL puppies.

 Quote: alyssa myracle

Socializing is good. The problem lies within your definition of socializing. .... In reality, it shouldn't be called socializing at all. It should be called neutralizing. .... teaching your dog to react calmly to new surroundings, and remain neutral when presented with new people and/or other dogs. .... I haven't seen the video (8 weeks to 8 months), but my understanding is that the feeding of treats to his dog was to demonstrate how to help FEARFUL puppies.

Yes. 100% correct.

Cory, you have received great advice here.

My first question was about your idea of "socializing," and all the subsequent posts demonstrated why.

Hi Cory, it depends what you want to do with your dog. If you are raising it for a working dog, you don't want it to run to others. The GSD is supposed to be aloof. It can't take care of a flock of sheep and be concerned with every tom dick and harry that walks by.
He must be focused on his master and his task.
If your dog is very afraid of people, than Ed suggests letting him see that people are not to be afraid of, so in that instance, maybe introducing him to someone with a treat is a good idea.
Otherwise, neutralizing is what you want to achieve. At least, that is what I got from the video.

Hmm, okay thanks guys. So, by not letting him interact with other dogs I'm not running a risk of him being dog aggressive in the future?

Just so you guys know I am not raising a working dog per say...I live alone and am raising him as my pet...and will teach him working dog skills...bu purely for fun.

IMO, "neutralizing" vs "socializing" applies to all dogs, pet or working.

Dogs become dog aggressive largely due to past negative experiences with other dogs. They develop a "bite him before he bites me" mentality.

Other reasons for dog aggression would include dominance and territorial behavior. Both of which are best avoided by solid pack structure, and respect for the handler.

 Quote: cory simpson

Hmm, okay thanks guys. So, by not letting him interact with other dogs I'm not running a risk of him being dog aggressive in the future?

Just so you guys know I am not raising a working dog per say...I live alone and am raising him as my pet...and will teach him working dog skills...bu purely for fun.

My dogs are just pets too--but helping coach a dog into a being a well-behaved companion animal is still work. And it's all the same skills. The dog doesn't know the difference between the jobs.

As for the dog agression question---no, not being chums with every dog on the street will not make him agressive towards dogs. My guess is, what you'd really prefer is that he ignore other dogs when you're out in the world. There are lots of dogs out there, and if your dog has to stop and make nice with every one of them, you'll never get anywhere on your walks.

Better that the dog is paying attention to YOU than to any other dogs or people. If YOU want him to meet another person or dog, then you should give him permission to interact with them when you stop. (but only if he's sitting nicely). But it should be your call, not the dog's.

Here's how I'd work on it. Fill up your pockets with hot dogs or dried liver or something that's really a treat for your dog. Then, whenever he's distracted by some person or dog out in the world, you need to do whatever you need to do to become MORE interesting than that distraction. Get out the treats, call his name in a fun high-pitched voice, run backwards, squeak the plastic squirrel---whatever. Just keep his focus on YOU. Then when the distraction passes, praise him for ignoring it.

If you ignore those people and dogs then he will too.

I also work on this by keeping up a running monologue with the dog while we're walking...."Oh, look up ahead, here comes a nice looking lady and her little dog...but we're not going to stop and talk to them today we're just going to keep walking (hold the leash close)...just watch ME! Lookey, I've got the cheese and that lady doesn't...oh what a good boy to watch me!..."

Wait until you've mastered ignoring people before you attempt stopping and meeting people. And when you do, the energy needs to be very low. The person you're meeting should IGNORE your dog at first. The dog should not be the center of a big whirlwind of excited energy.

(You're not using a flexi-lead on these walks, right?)