When I first posted the thread I miscalculated his age - OMG what was I thinking - he's only 5.5 months old not 7. Brain fart! LOL

Now, back on topic. I do give a leash correction that does in fact move kaiser off of the other dog - but he goes right back. Also, I've tried the "poke your fingers in the side of the neck and make an "aaahh aaahh" sound" - dog doesn't even flinch - most of the time about 90% that is.

This morning Kaiser received a nice growling from my other dog. I guess my other dog had enough. Keep in mind also that Kaiser is ALWAYS on a drag line while in the house - I even had a hold of him at the time. He jumped on the other ones back and got a growling. Then the other dog went to go lay down. kaiser then stopped, was time for me to go to work so in the crate he went - per usual protocol.

It also seems that he's becoming fearful again of his surroundings. Things he used to do when he was younger, moving away from strangers, backing away form motorcycle sounds, etc. This just started happening again a couple days ago.

I can't remember where I read this but I read that dogs go through two phases like this in their early lives. Or, was I smoking crack that day and just thought I read it? LOL

So, am working on more socialization at the moment to try to counter that issue. As for the jumping on the other dog, I can try a harder correction BUT the dog is already being hoisted away during the correction.

Are you pulling on the leash or popping it?

From what I've been reading, the second puppy fear period is around 6-8 months. If this behavior is just starting, perhaps that's what it is. I'm hoping that's what Duke is going through right now.

I'm popping the leash.

Yes that's the time frame. I'll be working heavily on that with him for the next couple months.

 Quote: Scott Garrett

I was shocked the first time I saw a truly effective leash correction. If you aren't getting a response you aren't giving a hard enough correction.

Ditto. We took our 5 month old pup to the breeder for two weeks of obedience training/behavioral work. She had become quite the brat for us because my husband and I had a hard time being consistent with the dog (I was the disciplinarian, he was the softie). The inconsistency was turning her into a nightmare and my hubby and I finally realized we needed some professional help. The first time I saw her give her a leash correction with the prong collar, I was amazed. It was quick, fast and hard. After 2 or 3 pops, my crazy hard-headed pup was instantly submissive to the breeder.

Now we understand that one hard & fast pop that shows the dog we need business is waaaayyy more effective than several medium pops. Plus, we also didn't have the prong collar up high enough on her neck (took some convincing to get my hubby to see the benefits of this, I threatened to print out the leerburg pdf and sit him down with it, but he finally gave in).

PS - Don't know if this helps, the but way she showed us to pop the leash was by gripping it with two hands (she had us fold the leash in half with it looped around the right hand thumb and then we gripped the leash in both hands) and then told us when we popped her, to pull back towards the dog's butt, not up which would lift the dog off the ground.

Peter,

I also have a similar issue as I have a younger puppy and another dog that is 18 months older. The issue I have is that my older dog continually knocks over and rough houses with the puppy. My solution has been, as Steve suggested in an earlier post, to manage it. First, they are never unsupervised. I usually try to tire them out by throwing the ball and/or taking a long walk. Then I allow them some (supervised) play time if I think it is too rough, then I remove them and put them up. Alternatively, I will remove one, do OB with the other, then switch.

I started doing this after discussing this with vets and dog trainers I respect. The general rule was, they will work it out, but supervise anyway. Oh and BTW, dogs can play rough just mind that they do not get overly aggressive.

Anyway, it has been working great for me and it allows them to have their time. As for the alerting, again, I have a similar issue arising out of a dominant dog, I am working on trying to make him indifferent to other dogs and people - easier said than done. Ed has a good section on this in his e-collar dvd. So far I have not had overly much success on this end. I use e-collar and prong - a simple fur saver and clicker does nothing - he is too taxable in nature for these things to be effective (and perhaps I am not the best trainer in the world!) When he is fixated it is nearly impossible to break it, so I correct him, turn him away, and continue to work on it. Time will tell.

Good luck.

-Al

Sorry I have been away for a couple weeks - duties at work and Rotary have kept me extremely busy. I thank everyone for their valuable input. I will be posting a new - but somewhat related topic today.