Quote: jenny arntzen

This is helpful. I was wondering how this worked and I think I have been doing it without instruction. When Jethro is fulfilling a command - for example, Stay or Wait, I can say Good (or Good Dog) to let him know he is doing it correctly and I want him to continue. I have been using Okay as the release - which means something like, "you are done now". Which is different from "This Way" or Lets Go" which mean follow me but you don't have to Heel. I'm using Sniff as the release from Heel - Sniff means, "You can explore as we are walking, but you have to keep the leash loose, no pulling."

I can see how it would be useful for my own purposes to make an inventory of the commands I am using and the definition of what those commands mean.

Are you marker training?

Yes, although I was introduced to it as clicker training. I like the idea of marker, though, because I am using the sound to 'mark' the behaviour. I am afraid I am still quite undisciplined, as I am completely self-taught. I don't always get the marks in exactly the right spot, but Jethro seems a forgiving chap, as he does keep working with me (not that he has a choice!).

I was reading another thread where the handler was making her dog anxious because she was over-training and confusing the dog, in particular with not ending the command. I would really like to know more about this part of the process. I fear I am a little sloppy about it.

Any way of posting a link to even a small video clip? Even the simplest of commands .....

Also, did you understand the process of loading your marker?

 Quote: jenny arntzen

.... the handler was making her dog anxious because she was over-training and confusing the dog, in particular with not ending the command. I would really like to know more about this part of the process. I fear I am a little sloppy about it.

Remember that you will be teaching the command -- not correcting. The only correction would be withholding the positive marker/reward, or maybe "nope" said in a completely non-anxiety-producing voice (nothing more than a negative marker -- NOTHING like NO! for a dog who is, say, in the act of climbing onto the table where the family's dinner is).

The dog who I think you are referring to had shut down around inappropriate corrections, not marker training.

What I mean is, don't worry. Yes, you want your timing to be great, but the worst that can happen even to a total noob is maybe giving an unearned treat or missing a time when you should have marked. There is no anxiety involved.



eta
PS

The terminal bridge (marker) IS the end of the command (it is a release as well as "Done right! Reward coming!"). But let's start with the very basics, like how you charged your marker.

Edited by Connie Sutherland (12/10/2010 09:07 PM)
Edit reason: eta

I would work on one thing at a time in a quiet environment, and when he has that one behavior nailed, move on. I'd train "look" in the house, quietly, before I'd be asking him to do so on a walk with distractions.

I'd also try to have one command/whistle/sound for what you are asking him to do.

Trying to TRAIN under situations with high distractions such as other animals, people in the dark, etc... shouldn't be attempted until his understanding of that particular behavior is solid in quiet environments, then in slightly more distracting situations, then in more so, etc...

I don't think you can mark/treat too much as long as it is clear to the dog what you are marking/treating for. However, TRAINING sessions should be kept short and frequent. Using different sounds for the same behavior could be a bit confusing. Subjecting him to situations with high distractions before he KNOWS the behavior is going to be frustrating for you both, IMHO.

I hope this helps.

ETA... do you know the KISS method? Keep it Super Simple. Break it down into small steps.

Barbara, this is very helpful! I realized I have been doing some very elaborate manouevers to accomplish the same end: "Jethro - whatever it is you are looking at, carrying in your mouth, scavenging from the ground, barking at, lunging at, growling at - I want you to Leave It right now!" and return to the state you were in before the reaction... Heel, Sniff, Watch, relaxing in the livingroom, on the front porch, etc."

Do you have a recommended KISS method?

What I tried this morning was, "Leave It" *TUG* - depending on what the distraction was, depended on how long (or how many cues) it took him to let it go:

Level 1: Leave It
Level 2: Leave It *TUG*
Level 3: Leave It *TUG* Leave It *TUG* Leave It *TUG* THIS WAY

I'm a little hazy on where the mark is made, and how the treat is given...

Perhaps you could point me in the right direction to find this.

 Quote: jenny arntzen

Yes, although I was introduced to it as clicker training. I like the idea of marker, though, because I am using the sound to 'mark' the behaviour. I am afraid I am still quite undisciplined, as I am completely self-taught. I don't always get the marks in exactly the right spot, but Jethro seems a forgiving chap, as he does keep working with me (not that he has a choice!).

That is the great part about marker training, if you screw it up no damage is done to the dog or your relationship.

I practice my timing using simple behaviors that he already does automatically like sitting or down.

A lot people use a work like "okay" to release the dog from a sit or stand or down etc.

The clicker or marker also acts like a release, meaning the desired behavior is completed.

I add duration gradually, in the same way as distractions.

When you first teach the sit, you mark the second their butt hits the ground, once they have that down perfectly you start adding a second or two at a time before marking.

If they break the sit consistently then it is time to back up and shorten the duration.

I just say oops (in a happy voice), which is my negative marker and restart. The negative marker just means "whoops, try again" which is not the same as a correction IMO.


Once they really understand the concept then I might add a verbal correction if they break the command.

Personally I only use any kind of physical correction like a leash pop or prong for manners infractions or leash pulling.