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Any specific ways of teaching him to leave the cattle, chickens and horses alone are very much appreciated.

It's going to be pretty much like any other distraction, except that livestock is going to be one of the biggest distractions that you are going to deal with.

With this in mind, work on practice, practice, practice outside of the livestock, then when he is solid, start working with the stock in the distance.

Also realize that this is a long term goal, you're probably looking at at least a year, quite possibly more. You're starting a little behind because you've already had issues develop with the donkey.

What activities do you currently do with him to satisfy his prey drive? Any fetch games or tug?

When teaching him the recall I did just as Ed Frawley teaches in his Basic Dog Obedience Video. He is 100% on recall and every other command I give him. I have worked separately, then with the children in the yard as a distraction, then in a lower field where the horses and cattle are on either side. He is truly 100% and has never refused since being taught the recall. In the learning phase of my teaching him the recall, I used both (at different times) the prong collar and the e-collar, and truthfully, he has never refused to come when called, except with the experience with the donkey.

The purpose of the e-collar in the donkey incidence was because he didn't come when called. Other than that time, he has always come to me.

I agree...the part about the "protective dog" will be better for another thread and I will start that as soon as I have this one figured out.

Electric fences are great for keeping your dog away from livestock. They are cheap and easy to set up, and the dog will respect it. You can re-arrange them often and simply.
We use lots of electric fence on our farm. Even chickens can be controlled with a hot wire.

The problem with fetch games or tug is that he doesn't do either. I am working on getting him to play, but he doesn't seem to want much of that.

I have been working seriously with him trying to get him to play for a while and he will now run after a ball and take a tug toy in his mouth, but when I give any resistance to it he drops it.

I started teaching him to fetch by putting a toy in his mouth and immediately saying, "yes" and rewarding him. Now he is up to putting the toy in his mouth willingly and doesn't require a treat to keep it there.

Just yesterday, he made the first attempt to play with me with a toy. I threw a tug toy and he grabbed it and ran, turned to me and lunged past me as if to say, "Now, it is your turn to get it." We had a lot of fun taking turns taking the toy from each other and then when I sat down he came and sat with me.

As for satisfying prey drive...I don't have anything specific other than what I mentioned. He satisfies his prey drive chasing the donkey around the fence. I know, that is NOT a good thing, but I really don't know what to do about it other than keep him in his crate or kennel all the time except for taking him for walks. However, is it alright for him to chase them when he is in his kennel? He runs around his kennel even while they are outside the yard fence (his kennel is in the yard about 20 feet from the fence.)

Again, thanks for the responses.

Have you heard of a flirt pole? (Or, since you've got mini's... do you have a lunge whip?) Tie a stuffed toy onto the end (I use a ratty old T shirt, but my dog will chase anything) and jerk it around in an erratic pattern, mimicking prey. Most dogs go nutzo for it!

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However, is it alright for him to chase them when he is in his kennel? He runs around his kennel even while they are outside the yard fence (his kennel is in the yard about 20 feet from the fence.)

No!! This is building frustration and makes him even more obsessed about the livestock. It can lead to anxiety and OCD as he just paces and paces with frustration and no satisfaction.

The flirt pole like Kelly mentioned would be a great start. Also try out different tugs. Often when just starting out with a dog a fleece tug can work pretty good. Just use long strips (3-4 ft) braided together tightly and knotted at both ends.

He does have drive, so it is probably just a matter of time to get him playing with toys. Remember, highly motivational, very short sessions that end as his interest is high. To start with you're probably looking at 1-2 minute sessions. And you're really going to have to get into the "this is really exciting" act. You got to convince him that you've got the greatest toy e.v.e.r.

Edited by Mara Jessup (03/23/2011 09:41 PM)
Edit reason: spelling

 Quote: mara jessup

get into the "this is really exciting" act. You got to convince him that you've got the greatest toy e.v.e.r.

Wait! WE are the greatest toy ever Mara! Toys are no fun w/o us attached to the other end.

I like the toy ideas. I do have some items that I can make a "flirt pole" with...I will try that.

So, is he still on the long line or can I let him off during play? When the donkey comes to the fence when I am there and Rocky and I are working he totally ignores her. He may run to the fence to check out what is going on, but when I call him he immediately comes without even looking back at her.

Personally I'd leave him on the long line- you'll just have to watch you're feet so you don't get tripped up. I would not let him acknowledge the donkey coming to the fence, so I'd set on the leash, and ask for more engagement with you.

I made my flirt pole with a old length of thin rope, and my swiffer (minus the flat mop part). Anything works! Now mine is a dual purpose dog dog, and floor cleaner.