Hi,
I would like to ask everyone ,but specially Kevin Sheldahl (IMO the most knowledgeble guy in the US regarding police dog selectio and training).

When a dog is being selected to be a PSD(patrol dog),it is ok if you have to help him overcame the problems/situations above mentioned through step-by-step motivational training or it just cant have these types of problems ?

PS: I am talking about young dogs.

Thanks
Rafa

Rafael wrote: When a dog is being selected to be a PSD(patrol dog),it is ok if you have to help him overcame the problems/situations above mentioned through step-by-step motivational training or it just cant have these types of problems ?

Not Kevin but I’ll give it a shot. Many, if not most, of the PSD’s in this country are imported dogs that have received some level of training in one of the biting sports, SchH, Ring, KNPV etc. Many of those dogs have never seen anything beyond a kennel environment. That would include grass, cement, dirt and little else. Few of them have ever been in a house and fewer still any kind of a shopping mall.

And so they have to be exposed to all of that and more. Age doesn’t make a difference. Dogs that are exposed to other surfaces than I mentioned as puppies, rarely have a problem with them, but dogs that only see them as adults frequently do. Until the day he died my PSD hated slippery floors of any kind. But he learned to work on them.

I’ve found that the best way to introduce those “unfriendly” surfaces is through play. I’ll start playing with a ball adjacent to whatever new surface or situation I want the dog to learn and then just throw the ball closer and closer to it. When the dog is very excited about the game I just toss the ball onto the surface. In his excitement the dog is on the surface or the elevator or the escalator or the open grated flooring or whatever, before he even realizes that there’s a difference in the surface. After a few ball tosses I’ll give a down command and only then does the dog realize that something is different. If he starts to show any discomfort over this, I just throw the ball some more.

Mika and Lou's comments on this subject just prove the importance of the dog wanting to do the task and not being forced to.
I have seen many really good dogs ruined by some idiot trying to force a dog into an unatural situation that it is fearful of.

I introduce puppies to objects and noises at a distance. Gradually get closer to the source over a period of time, shorten the distance daily to a noise. One technique I found that works is to hang a metal trash can lid from a cable a couple of inches off the floor (concrete) as the pup plays he will jump and bump onto the lid and becomes accustomed to the noise. My pups also enjoy draging metal water and food bowls acroos the floor.

I have raised several dogs over the years and my method for getting the dogs to different scenarios was by force.... now I know i am gonna get a lot of bad feedback on this but hear me out!

The dog would see and obstacle that is unfamiliar and scary.... i love the local park that has one of the largest play areas that i have ever seen! Tunnels, Ladders, Slides, Bridges etc.

What I do is try calling the dog onto the unfamiliar area... I will try my hardest to encourage the dog onto the surface or obstacle by using a toy or food. If the dog still doesnt want to come I bring it onto the surface... Example the bouncy bridge at the playground... The dog is terrified at first but then i hold the pup, and pet it for a few minutes to let the pup know, that it isnt as scary as he thought, and that I will keep him safe.

It works. after a few tries, the dog will learn to trust me and do what i say.... well.... usually!

One thing to keep in mind... NEVER let the dog fail! I was teaching my dog to jump into the back of a truck, well he would try, and fall... he got so upset that evrytime he tried, he failed and hurt himself so he refused and was afraid of the truck. I tried it with another dog, but i helped the dog up at the same time he was jumping and it built up the confidence and it worked everytime!

Ok... you're turn.... you're opinions on my methods!

Luis

Umbrellas and statues.

Umbrellas: Hold her dinner bowl and an open umbrella simultaneously, while hand feeding her dinner. Cheese works well too; just hold the open umbrella while having the dog work for rewards of cheese. Touch the dog with the umbrella while simultaneously feeding cheese, then gradually switch to where the touch comes before the cheese. Also, having another person with an umbrella approach to a specified distance and open the umbrella while I have my dog follow obedience commands and reward her with tasty treats. Over time the specified distance decreases as umbrellas become more familiar.

Statues: Food. Feeding her really good food (hot dogs, cheese, liver, chicken, etc.) at a distance from the statue where she can see it but isn't feeling too afraid to eat, and over time, moving closer to the statue, placing a food trail leading up to it, and placing food on it. She will now investigate statues if I approach in a confident and upbeat manner ("Oh, BOY!!! What's THAT???") and encourage her to check it out, even without the food.

With a new pup that you know has good genetics, just take it with you as often as you can. By 4 months old, my GSD had been in 4 passenger plane, helicopter, boat, swimming (he's a lousy swimmer but love the water), rapelled with him, Shot 12ga, 9mm over him, and the inside area of his kennel is also in my woodworking shop. Table saw, Radial saw, routers, lathe, drum sander, jointer, air tools, etc. He doesn't pay a bit of attention to any of it. I always kept my eye on him as I carefully introduced each of these, but he never showed any avesion whatsoever. If, as Kevin stated, the dog is older, I still think they will adjust if they have the right genes.

somehow,no one mentioned wheeled chairs, or walkers.canes,and crutches,are also a new sight for a dog.mine goes ballistic over anything with wheels.he thinks he needs to bite the rolling things.lol